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Old 02-25-2017, 04:46 PM   #1
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Short inside inverter

Went out to check on boat today and noticed I didn't have any 110 volt power . The charger was on in the inverter and I showed having 30 amps from shore power but no 110 at my breaker box . I tracked it down to this connection inside the inverter . Would a butt connector be better here or should I go back with the same ? We were lucky we had no serious fire .
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Old 02-25-2017, 06:28 PM   #2
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I don't think the connector is the problem...


Can you explain what you mean by "showed having 30 amps from shore power". You used an ammeter?
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Old 02-25-2017, 07:09 PM   #3
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I don't think the connector is the problem...


Can you explain what you mean by "showed having 30 amps from shore power". You used an ammeter?
xantrex moniter showed 30 amp incoming from shore power . I did not put an ammeter on it . The charger was still working . About a week ago I did a NO NO and used a short extension cord on a ceramic heater for about 3 hrs . After I turned it off I could hardly get the cord unplugged from the heater . I'm thinking this is when this connection inside the inverter started heating up .
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Old 02-25-2017, 07:39 PM   #4
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I would suggest going back with the same connector. Cut back to clean untarnished wire.
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Old 02-25-2017, 07:42 PM   #5
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I don't think the connector is the problem...


Can you explain what you mean by "showed having 30 amps from shore power". You used an ammeter?
I don't think the connector is the problem either . Do you think this type of connector is the best to use here or is something else better ?
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Old 02-25-2017, 07:43 PM   #6
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I would suggest going back with the same connector. Cut back to clean untarnished wire.
Thanks . Do you think the heater may have started this problem ?
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Old 02-25-2017, 07:45 PM   #7
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The short answer is that unit was designed, tested and UL listed with that connector. Substituting with a different type will probably not improve the performance.
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Old 02-25-2017, 07:46 PM   #8
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Yep. Especially since the plug was nearly melted in the cord.
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Old 02-26-2017, 06:39 AM   #9
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Placing stranded wire under a screw terminal is asking for trouble.

Dip the stranded end into solder (1/4 inch is fine) as you find on most Euro electrical goodies.
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Old 02-26-2017, 06:50 AM   #10
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That heat damage may go far up that burned lead.

Connector probably loosened with thermal cycles, probably good to snug it periodically.

And ceramic heaters can have high inrush current. I've got one and don't like using it on the boat for that reason.
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Old 02-26-2017, 07:46 AM   #11
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I think the damage was caused by the screw being slightly loose resulting in resistance and the connection heating up. I would replace the connector with a similar one rated for that current.


I would not dip the wire in solder, just make sure the bare ends are clean and shiny.


BTW: What you have there is not a "short". A "short" would be where the hot conductor touched the neutral or ground conductor. A "short" would trip the breaker or blow the fuse.
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Old 02-26-2017, 08:08 AM   #12
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I agree that the most likely problem was a slightly loose connection. I had a similar situation on the D.C. Input of my inverter. Anytime a connection becomes loose it has increased resistance and if it is used heavily it can get really hot. The heat at the connection makes the resistance even higher and eventually it's a runaway situation.

I would replace like with like, strip back the wire until you find good or replace wire as required. Tighten well and check tightness periodically.

If you're interested in covering the stranded wire before its clamped, the best way is with a ferrule. These are cheap and readily available. Unfortunately they require a crimper made for them.

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Old 02-26-2017, 08:08 AM   #13
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Using unlisted electric material for an AC load is not a good idea.. You were lucky not caught fire... Always it's good idea keep an eye on AC connectors over the winter. Even with low charge the combination of heat and old plastic it's fatal for connectors.
I always reject the idea install an inverter at "on line" over the main AC line, always prefer put over a sub panel with dedicated AC line. An inverter storage a lot of power on that huge capacitor and can discharge in a second.
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Old 02-26-2017, 08:26 AM   #14
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Is this just a standard connector that I would get from a home store or is this a marine grade connector? Electricity is by far my weakest point . I can fix this but I want to make sure I'm using the right materials .
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Old 02-26-2017, 08:30 AM   #15
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Do you always leave your inverter on when you are plugged into shore power? What brand and size of inverter are you using? PSW or MSW?
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Old 02-26-2017, 08:40 AM   #16
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Mule

Do you always leave your inverter on when you are plugged into shore power? What brand and size of inverter are you using? PSW or MSW?
I'm not at the boat right now but I think it is Freedom inverter/charger 2000 . I leave on for the charger
only .
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Old 02-26-2017, 08:59 AM   #17
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Is this just a standard connector that I would get from a home store or is this a marine grade connector? Electricity is by far my weakest point . I can fix this but I want to make sure I'm using the right materials .
I would disconnect it (after noting which wire goes where) and take it to a wholesale electronics distributor (NOT RADIO SHACK). Most cities have one.

They will recognize the connector and either have one in stock or can order one.
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Old 02-26-2017, 09:32 AM   #18
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If you cannot solder, use a ferrule on the stranded wire. Eurostrips are your best choice. Butt connections are not.
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Old 02-26-2017, 10:14 AM   #19
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Just curious: doesn't your inverter automatically transfer the inverter loads to shore side or genny power when those power sources are on? Also, isn't it a good idea to turn the inverter "off" when you are away from the boat?
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Old 02-26-2017, 10:27 AM   #20
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Went out to check on boat today and noticed I didn't have any 110 volt power . The charger was on in the inverter and I showed having 30 amps from shore power but no 110 at my breaker box . I tracked it down to this connection inside the inverter . Would a butt connector be better here or should I go back with the same ? We were lucky we had no serious fire .

You cannot load an ac power source to the point where there is no voltage but have 30 amps. I don't doubt that something read 30 amperes, maybe a stuck meter. If the 30 amps you read was real, it had to have a source.......from your batteries or the dock power stanchion.

Did you find anything hot? That current will heat wire .... generates 4,600 watts somewhere if from ac line.
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