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Old 09-11-2015, 02:48 PM   #21
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I like a Cablemaster with a remote control so I can hold the end of the cord in my hand and push a button to reel the cord into the boat.
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Old 09-11-2015, 03:02 PM   #22
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Where I moor full time, the marina has regulations that require any shore power cord to be no more than 10' longer than the distance needed in order to minimize coiling which can produce heat. In addition, shore power cords are required to have factory ends - No cut cords and user installed ends.


These regs have never been enforced, so we have quite a variety of solutions.


This summer, I needed both my 25 and 50 foot cords at two marinas where the closest pedestal outlets needed repairs.
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Old 09-11-2015, 03:25 PM   #23
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I like a Cablemaster with a remote control so I can hold the end of the cord in my hand and push a button to reel the cord into the boat.
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Old 09-11-2015, 04:43 PM   #24
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We just pulled into Roche Harbor. The 50 A cord length needed was 48' with my wife doing the run and hookup. She chuckled a bit when I told her of this thread. But she grew up on a farm.
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Old 09-11-2015, 05:43 PM   #25
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We just pulled into Roche Harbor. The 50 A cord length needed was 48' with my wife doing the run and hookup. She chuckled a bit when I told her of this thread. But she grew up on a farm.
Ok, so why did you need 48'? Was the power inlet on the boat in the stern and you were bow in to the dock or vise versa?

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Old 09-11-2015, 05:46 PM   #26
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We have two 75' 50A cords on Cablemasters so we only run out what we need. They are on the back deck. In most places we go around the PNW-20-30 feet has been sufficient but we have been a few places that needed 50'+. AS was noted-it is great to have the remote and be able to hold the plug and either let it out or reel it back in.
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Old 09-11-2015, 07:32 PM   #27
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Ok, so why did you need 48'? Was the power inlet on the boat in the stern and you were bow in to the dock or vise versa?

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Our vessel has power hookups fore and aft. The Admiral chose to string the cable in the most foot friendly fashion for her. As she says, use it or lose it.
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Old 09-11-2015, 08:38 PM   #28
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Where I moor full time, the marina has regulations that require any shore power cord to be no more than 10' longer than the distance needed in order to minimize coiling which can produce heat. ...
Sounds like paranoia as I've never sensed heat passing through the coiled portion of my cable. Perhaps you guys are (energy hogs?) drawing too much current with all your air conditioners, electric stoves, microwave ovens, ice makers, coffee makers, and so on.

Prior to neatly coiling:

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Old 09-11-2015, 09:03 PM   #29
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Our vessel has power hookups fore and aft. The Admiral chose to string the cable in the most foot friendly fashion for her. As she says, use it or lose it.
Ok, so 48' wasn't required to get shore power, it was needed for aesthetic reasons. That's fine, best to keep the admiral happy. In that situation, I could certainly have put the 20' and 30' cable together.

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Old 09-11-2015, 09:32 PM   #30
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Was the need for all 50' based on the cord running 2/3rds of the length of the boat before crossing to land? ....So having 2 inlets seem to eliminate the need for length to run down the deck.

Ted
You make a good point. In our case the single groundpower connection on our boat is in the port side of the main cabin in the galley storage compartment under the sink. As such this puts it a bit forward of the halfway mark down the length of the boat.

We prefer a starboard tie as this puts the main cabin door next to the dock. We can run the cable to the dock beside the boat across the top of the forecabin or across the top of the aft cabin. So no need to run all the way to the bow or stern.

But in most of the harbors we visit here, including our home harbor, the power pedestals are on the main dock, not the fingers. And they are often on the center-line of a two-boat slip. So we need to run to the main dock, usually over the bow, and then sometimes off to port or starboard to the power pedestal.

If we had groundpower connections in the bow and stern of the boat as you do, the times we would need a longer groundpower cable would be reduced considerably.

I think we would still want the longer cable, though, as there are some harbors here where the guest docks are linear, not slips, and the power pedestals are fairly widely spaced. So depending on where the boat ends up on the dock it can still be a somewhat long run even to a bow or stern mounted on-board connection.

But if these situations are rare to non-existent where you boat, then shorter cables with the option to combine them into a longer one would seem to make good sense.
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Old 09-12-2015, 07:20 AM   #31
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"In addition, shore power cords are required to have factory ends - No cut cords and user installed ends."

That is beyond insane,, as the best plugs are not molded on.

I can see them requiring marine ends and WP covers to match to the power pole , but REQUIRING a lesser grade?
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Old 09-12-2015, 07:44 AM   #32
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I'll second the vote for a Cablemaster. I used to run a 43' sportfisher with a 50ft shore-power cord that had manhandled up through the engine room hatch. Immagine my joy when the owner bought a bigger fishing boat with TWIN cablemasters - one either side. The tubs for the cables are quite large, so a retrofit would not be without its problems.
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Old 09-12-2015, 11:02 AM   #33
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"In addition, shore power cords are required to have factory ends - No cut cords and user installed ends."

That is beyond insane,, as the best plugs are not molded on.

I can see them requiring marine ends and WP covers to match to the power pole , but REQUIRING a lesser grade?
They are obviously just trying to CTA by requiring factory ends. That way if anything goes wrong with an end installed by someone else they can try to shift the blame.

In a way I can't blame them considering the quality of most of the DIY electrical work I see.
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Old 09-12-2015, 11:31 AM   #34
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If you are using a standard 30 amp cable, the normal store bought length is 50', which is light weight and easily manageable, so doesn't need to be shortened to 30' or 20'.

I have a couple of spares, so when necessary to dock in a location far from the nearest shore outlet, I have 150'. I have used this much only once, up coast.

After an insurance survey, the insurance Co. contributed $125 to the cost of putting a "smart Plug" on the boat end. This means I have no choice which of my 3 power cords is attached to the boat.

The connection to the boat is the most frequent source of boat fires, hence the insurance Co encouraging the use of a safer connector. Should the cord to post or cord to cord connection burn up, it won't take the boat with it, so no push by the insurance industry to change. Another thing insurers don't like is the DIY style connector that doesn't have the positive screw on security of the factory installed boat end. No surprise some marinas require this.

Like Marin, my connection point is close to mid-ship, but on the Starboard side. I prefer to tie Port side, so come over the foredeck to the nearest shore outlet, which at home port or club marinas, is always within the reach of my single 50' cord.
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Old 09-12-2015, 06:06 PM   #35
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If you are using a standard 30 amp cable, the normal store bought length is 50', which is light weight and easily manageable, so doesn't need to be shortened to 30' or 20'.
The shipping weight (only weight I could find) for your 30 amp 125 volt 50' power cord is about 13 pounds. The cable we are referring to is 50 amp 250 volt 50'. The shipping weight is 44 pounds. That's 3 times what you cable weighs.

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Old 09-12-2015, 06:58 PM   #36
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Just remember not to use the cords with the excess coiled, or on a reel. Oscillating magnetic fields and heat are generated. You will shorten the life of the cord, and potentially start a fire.
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Old 09-12-2015, 07:28 PM   #37
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Just remember not to use the cords with the excess coiled, or on a reel. Oscillating magnetic fields and heat are generated. You will shorten the life of the cord, and potentially start a fire.
If that were true Glendinnings would be burning down boats and burning out cords left and right. And that ain't happening.
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Old 09-13-2015, 02:30 AM   #38
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We keep the excess of our 50' groundpower cable coiled and hung from a hanger off the rail. I have checked it from time to time and it is never even the tiniest bit warm. I have experienced planty of AC cables getting hot in the industry I work in (film/video production) so I know it can happen. We even "exploded" an extersion cord once when the gaffer put too many lights on it.

We don't pull very much power through our groundpower cord. Maximum is in the winter with the three-stage battery charger, the refrigerator/freezer and two electric oil heaters in the boat, both on the lowest setting of 600w and with their thermostats halfway up. We feel the cable and the connectors at each end for temperature every time we're at the boat and they have all been cold every time.
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Old 09-13-2015, 07:32 AM   #39
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When using a 240v setup, if the loads are balanced , not all on one leg , the load on the cord is light.

Problems come from 50A on one leg and the neutral wire,

Let the red leg and black leg carry about equal loads.

Esp if using resistance heaters.
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Old 01-12-2016, 07:49 AM   #40
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Update to my cable shortening:

Was able to locate 2 new plugs (male & female), 4 new plug covers, and a coupling kit (allows 2 cords to be joined with a rain proof connection) for about $150 between Amazon and a couple of vendors. Seems they were trying to reduce inventory. Took a couple of hours to clean up the cable with the auto polish, cut the cable, add new plug covers, and the 2 new plugs. In the process was able to inspect the original plugs for corrosion under the covers; there was none. Now have a 30' and a 20' cable. The 30' ended up being just right for my summer slip. Definitely worth doing; much easier to handle; and looks much better all cleaned up and new plug covers.

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