Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 04-14-2016, 11:18 PM   #1
Veteran Member
 
City: Long Beach
Country: CA
Vessel Model: '81 CHB34
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 87
Replacement solenoid for windlass

Need a replacement for a up only ideal windlass. I don't know the motor specs, but I have 100' of BBB chain, 34' boat. I've found marine "windlass" solenoids for over $100. But then there are winch and diesel truck starter solenoid options for around $10. And suggestions on a non marine $$ option?

Thanks in advance.
__________________
Advertisement

winty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-14-2016, 11:27 PM   #2
Veteran Member
 
City: Long Beach
Country: CA
Vessel Model: '81 CHB34
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 87
Example.
Amazon.com: NEW 12V 150A CONTINUOUS DUTY SOLENOID RELAY FOR GOLF CARTS 300A IN RUSH 1114208: Automotive
__________________

winty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-15-2016, 05:51 AM   #3
Guru
 
psneeld's Avatar
 
City: Avalon, NJ
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Freedom
Vessel Model: Albin 40
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 15,904
I used one like that for 2 years till I went ahead and bought a reversing capable solenoid as my winless was designed for either.

Just mount it in a dry location or a box. Best if it isn't body grounded, find one with an insulated ground.
psneeld is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-15-2016, 06:39 AM   #4
FF
Guru
 
FF's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 16,530
Solenoids can be paired if you need more Amps.
FF is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-15-2016, 07:39 AM   #5
Guru
 
caltexflanc's Avatar
 
City: North Carolina for now
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Small Incentive
Vessel Model: Boston Whaler 130 Sport
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 3,800
A picture would help. Call Ideal. They can tell you what you need, and if you like sell you one that is rubber coated. I've used both theirs and standard Cole Hersee solenoids (which I sprayed with Corrosion X after installation).
__________________
George

"There's the Right Way, the Wrong Way, and what some guy says he's gotten away with"
caltexflanc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-15-2016, 09:32 AM   #6
Guru
 
City: North Charleston, SC
Country: USA
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,390
Quote:
Originally Posted by FF View Post
Solenoids can be paired if you need more Amps.
I don't think that's a good idea. One will make contact before the other and for a very short time it will carry all the current. I would expect the contacts to burn and eventually fail. That will leave the other carrying all the current and it could fail by overheating and catching fire.

It should be fairly easy to find the correct solenoid in the first place.

These "solenoids" are often referred to as "contactors". It's really a relay, not a solenoid.
rwidman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-15-2016, 11:58 AM   #7
Guru
 
Xsbank's Avatar
 
City: Pender Harbour, BC
Country: Canada
Vessel Name: Gwaii Haanas
Vessel Model: Vancouver Shipyards Custom Aluminum 52
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 2,447
Cole Hersey is good, I added a second solenoid to run the Ideal downwards too, rather than releasing the clutch and letting it free fall. The motor is a starter motor off a 56 Chev, or something similar and doesn't need "marine" - just keep them dry. You can look at the breaker that has been used forever in your windlass circuit and spec the solenoid based on that.
__________________
Don't believe everything that you think.
Xsbank is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-15-2016, 01:18 PM   #8
Guru
 
City: North Charleston, SC
Country: USA
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,390
The simplest thing to do is replace the defective part with an exact replacement. You know it will work and all the cables and mounting holes will be in the right place.
rwidman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-15-2016, 02:31 PM   #9
Senior Member
 
Rusty's Avatar
 
City: WA
Country: US
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 214
I'd contact Cliffe at Ideal (idealwindlass.com) before pursuing other options. They have most all parts for their products going way back. They had all the parts for my 38 year old windlass. In my case, the model was on the motor. CMW, I believe.
Rusty is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-15-2016, 02:37 PM   #10
Guru
 
jleonard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,740
Quote:
It's really a relay, not a solenoid
Correct.
I have one of those generic automotive relays aboard in my spare parts inventory...I would use it for the Lehman or windlass if needed.
__________________
Jay Leonard
Attitude Adjustment
40 Albin
Mystic,Ct. /New Port Richey,Fl
jleonard is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-15-2016, 03:54 PM   #11
Guru
 
Alaskan Sea-Duction's Avatar
 
City: Inside Passage Summer/Columbia River Winter
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Alaskan Sea-Duction
Vessel Model: 1988 M/Y Camargue YachtFisher
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 3,151
On my bow, I had these solenoids that were mechanical, meaning when you pushed on the button, it drove a rod which activated the switch. I replaced them with these from WM.


WEST MARINE Covered Waterproof Foot Switch | West Marine
__________________
1988 M/Y Camargue Yacht Fisher
Alaskan Sea-Duction
MMSI: 338131469
Blog: http://alaskanseaduction.blogspot.com/
Alaskan Sea-Duction is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-15-2016, 04:23 PM   #12
Guru
 
caltexflanc's Avatar
 
City: North Carolina for now
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Small Incentive
Vessel Model: Boston Whaler 130 Sport
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 3,800
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alaskan Sea-Duction View Post
On my bow, I had these solenoids that were mechanical, meaning when you pushed on the button, it drove a rod which activated the switch. I replaced them with these from WM.


WEST MARINE Covered Waterproof Foot Switch | West Marine
Those switches carry the entire current? On the boats I've been involved in, the switches activate the solenoid set. I bet yours do too.
__________________
George

"There's the Right Way, the Wrong Way, and what some guy says he's gotten away with"
caltexflanc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-15-2016, 04:49 PM   #13
Guru
 
mbevins's Avatar
 
City: Windsor
Country: Canada
Vessel Name: Keeper IV
Vessel Model: 44 Viking ACMY
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,305
Quote:
Originally Posted by caltexflanc View Post

Those switches carry the entire current? On the boats I've been involved in, the switches activate the solenoid set. I bet yours do too.
The specs on it say it's rated at 150amps. Personally I'm with you on this. I'm more comfortable feeding a relay/solenoid from the foot switch and letting the relay rated at (150amps + ) take the load. With this switch you're relying on foot pressure to close the contacts. Not a very consistent procedure.
__________________
"The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those who are willing to work and give to those who would not."

mbevins is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-15-2016, 07:08 PM   #14
Veteran Member
 
City: Long Beach
Country: CA
Vessel Model: '81 CHB34
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 87
There is a foot switch which is what triggers the solenoid.
winty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-15-2016, 09:23 PM   #15
Guru
 
koliver's Avatar
 
City: Saltspring Island
Country: BC, canada
Vessel Name: Retreat
Vessel Model: C&L 44
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,170
The ones I had originally were the rod that you pushed down into the solenoid with your foot, covered with a rubber top. The replacements are a microswitch that you close when you push down with your foot, two small wires carry the current to the exciter on the solenoid, closing the contacts and powering the windlass. This style has lasted a lot longer than the originals did. All for less than $100 at Harbour Chandler in Nanaimo, so should be available everywhere there is a good marine store.
koliver is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2016, 08:46 AM   #16
Guru
 
City: North Charleston, SC
Country: USA
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,390
Some of the smaller windlasses do not use a contactor (relay). The full current goes through the switches.
rwidman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2016, 11:47 AM   #17
Guru
 
koliver's Avatar
 
City: Saltspring Island
Country: BC, canada
Vessel Name: Retreat
Vessel Model: C&L 44
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,170
Quote:
Originally Posted by WesK View Post
Some of the smaller windlasses do not use a contactor (relay). The full current goes through the switches.

So easy to change. Just add the micro foot switches and new solenoids.
koliver is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2016, 11:52 AM   #18
Guru
 
Alaskan Sea-Duction's Avatar
 
City: Inside Passage Summer/Columbia River Winter
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Alaskan Sea-Duction
Vessel Model: 1988 M/Y Camargue YachtFisher
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 3,151
Quote:
Originally Posted by caltexflanc View Post
Those switches carry the entire current? On the boats I've been involved in, the switches activate the solenoid set. I bet yours do too.
You could be right. All I know is when I push on the up, the chain comes in and when I push on the down, the anchor and chain gets wet. Yep works for me.....
__________________
1988 M/Y Camargue Yacht Fisher
Alaskan Sea-Duction
MMSI: 338131469
Blog: http://alaskanseaduction.blogspot.com/
Alaskan Sea-Duction is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2016, 12:05 PM   #19
Guru
 
City: North Charleston, SC
Country: USA
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,390
Quote:
Originally Posted by koliver View Post
So easy to change. Just add the micro foot switches and new solenoids.
Considering the cost of a contactor, I just upsized to a windlass that included the contactor. The switches are the same.
__________________

rwidman is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off





All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:58 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2006 - 2012