Remove old AC thru-hull?

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Sunset

Senior Member
Joined
May 12, 2013
Messages
278
Location
Canada
Vessel Name
Manatee
Vessel Make
1976 Albin 25 DeLuxe
I would like to install a new 15A plug-in (for my new 12A Promarine battery charger) in place of the existing ancient and disconnected AC shore power receptacle. Is there some way to remove this old thru-hull fixture, or would I be better off simply drilling a new thru-hull?
 
I would like to install a new 15A plug-in (for my new 12A Promarine battery charger) in place of the existing ancient and disconnected AC shore power receptacle. Is there some way to remove this old thru-hull fixture, or would I be better off simply drilling a new thru-hull?

I hope you are not thinking of running shore power directly to a battery charger. I'd want photos and a schematic before answering your questions because I'm not sure I understand.
 
I hope you are not thinking of running shore power directly to a battery charger. I'd want photos and a schematic before answering your questions because I'm not sure I understand.

agree
 
The thru-hull I am referring to is located on the vertical surface of the wheelhouse.

The charger is the 43012, and comes with regular 3-prong 120V cord and plug.

ProSport Series | ProMariner

The inlet is like this, but without the hard-wire set-up. IOW, you use the 3-prong plug that is already attached to the power cord of the charger.

http://www.marinco.com/product/15a-125v-board-charger-inlet-black

If one were't to plug it into 15A shore power, I don't know what the heck they would do with it. My shore power is a regular 15A plug in.
 
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There are replacement 15 amp boatside receptacles, you need to follow some safety install ideas if that's important to you...probably come with the new inlet.

That's what I would do or even better...upgrade to a 30 amp inlet/panel so I could expand if needed....assuming cash is available for the upgrade.
 
Each POS line on the outlet cords is protected by an inline fuse. The installation instructions - re power source - call for plugging into a UL approved HD power cord, which is to be plugged to a 120V GFCI outlet. Seems fairly straightforward, right?

As an aside, I have no desire to provide for any more advanced shore power for this particular boat. Less is more. :)
 
So - am I missing something?
If not - any thoughts on whether that old power receiver can be removed and replaced?
 
sure just use that marinco bulkhead adapter and hardwire the charger to the backside and run an extension cord to it....not the best way but certainly the way many do it.

The really critical stuff for your protection will be on the dock side of things...that's where you need to ensure all safety issues...if you care to do so.
 
Unhappily I don't think it is within my authority to deal with the marina's crappy 15V outlet by installing a proper locking system.

How about the removal issue? Anyone?
 
So - am I missing something?
If not - any thoughts on whether that old power receiver can be removed and replaced?

I don't know what a "POS" is or a "power receiver" tut it sounds to me like you are going to hard wire a battery charger without circuit protection onboard. I also suspect that you have no intention of bonding the AC ground and DC negative. If I am correct, you will have an unsafe vessel.
 
It sounds to me as if you may not have read all of my remarks.

POS = POSitive. "Power Receiver" is just another randomly chosen term for the ancient existing Shore Power Receptacle, being the principal subject of the thread. Sorry for not having the precise term for this item.
 
In planning to complete this installation I have tried to follow the instructions set out here:
Installing A Marine Battery Charger Photo Gallery by Compass Marine at pbase.com
although mine is a much simpler setup. I intend to include provision for grounding the charger case itself.

I will give further thought (and research) as to whether the inline fuses are sufficient.

Meantime - no ideas as to removal of the old shore power outlet???
 
It sounds to me as if you may not have read all of my remarks.

POS = POSitive. "Power Receiver" is just another randomly chosen term for the ancient existing Shore Power Receptacle, being the principal subject of the thread. Sorry for not having the precise term for this item.

I have read all your remarks and I'm sorry but making up your own "randomly" chosen terminology and using terms like throughulls (a seawater connection through the hull) improperly makes it very difficult to understand.

Love to help but I still don't under stand where these inline fuses are supposed to be... in the power supply cord from the charger (not likely).
 
For the inline fuses were talking about 12 V right? If so they have there own inline and there's no need for adding extra fuses. Also how many and which type of batteries are you charging? As for taking out the old receptacle, if the holes to big goto Home Depot and buy some plexiglass cut it to fit over existing receptacle hole and then cut smaller hole for the new receptacle in it. Also if there's not enough wire in between just go buy some marine grade triplex cable accordingly sized 12 AWG would be best but could get away using 14 AWG, just make sure you use marine heat shrink connectors between them.
 
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Boatpoker ----> You are correct, a thru-hull does connote below waterline fitting, although I doubt you would expect to find a "AC shore power receptacle" there.

"Each POS line on the outlet cords is protected by an inline fuse" and I don't mean "piece of ___" :) (or do I?). By outlet cord I mean the lines leading from the charger and connecting to the batteries.

Please understand that while I am eager to receive all comments relating to electrical issues, my lack of precision in language here is because I am actually asking about removal of the deck fitting.
 
usually 4 screws or bolts and it's toast...what's the issue? you can buy replacement ones that will usually go right over the hole and use the same fastener holes....is that what you are looking for?
 
Pictures, we need pictures. Worth a thousand words!
 

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Im not sure on ABYC standards but the dockside power should be GFCI protected. I've seen multiple small outboard boats with this setup, no problems. if your really worried about it, buy one of these. It's an inline GCFI adapter.
50ft 12 Gauge Extension Cord w Inline Ground Fault GFCI Protection | eBay

ABYC, CFR's, NEC, NFPA, CE, IEEE and Transport Canada TP1332E (since OP is from Canada) all require such circuit protection as described in my previous post. TP1332E also requires the DC negative and AC ground be bonded as do most of the other standards cited..
 
............. Meantime - no ideas as to removal of the old shore power outlet???

Unscrew the screws and pry it off.

Seriously, electricity and boats can be a lethal combination. If you don't know what your doing, hire a marine electrician to do what you want done. It's a lot cheaper than a funeral.
 
ABYC, CFR's, NEC, NFPA, CE, IEEE and Transport Canada TP1332E (since OP is from Canada) all require such circuit protection as described in my previous post. TP1332E also requires the DC negative and AC ground be bonded.
Just because it isn't up to ABYC standards doesn't mean it's not safe, I guarantee 95% of boats on here are not compliant including ours there's always , and we make out just fine . All the man wants is a SIMPLE charging system, I've ran the setup that I referred to before NO problems. If you were paranoid about it run a 10 AWG cable down to your Negative common bus, and add a marine circuit breaker. Done. But one of those cords I referred to in the previous would work just fine.
 
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Unscrew the screws and pry it off. Seriously, electricity and boats can be a lethal combination. If you don't know what your doing, hire a marine electrician to do what you want done. It's a lot cheaper than a funeral.
Also apply heat, that will loosen up any old cruddy adhesives.
 
Just because it isn't up to ABYC standards doesn't mean it's not safe, I guarantee 95% of boats on here are not compliant including ours there's always , and we make out just fine . All the man wants is a SIMPLE charging system, I've ran the setup that I referred to before NO problems. If you were paranoid about it run a 10 AWG cable down to your Negative common bus, and add a marine circuit breaker. Done. But one of those cords I referred to in the previous would work just fine.

OK forget ABYC but the CFR's, TP1332E and the RCD make it the law in the US, Canada and the EC. Flout the law and you may end up testing your insurance company. Your choice.
 
Sorry, I prefer to tell the inexperienced how to do it right, not how to do it so they can get away with it (maybe).
 
Sorry, I prefer to tell the inexperienced how to do it right, not how to do it so they can get away with it (maybe).
Im sorry, I should of put a disclosure, not up to standards.
 
Unfortunately...Marinco probably states that the 15amp boat inlet that's designed for charging bassboat batteries after a tough day on the lake is adequate if all that's attached is a batt charger and an extension cord to the boat inlet.

Not what I would like to see...and a much better setup for a boat on a trailer in your driveway but I'm not sure if that's the total 110V electrical system on a boat that it's dangerous. Especially as I posted before if adequate safeguards are in place only a few feet away.

Many marinas I have the displeasure of working out of have far more dangerous setups than what we are talking here....year after year with no issues.

I would like to see an ABYC compliant setup as we are starting fresh with a minimal system so minimal pieces and parts are required...but I also can't get too excited about something akin to an extension cord running to a batt charger on the boat not needing space travel safety levels.
 
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