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Old 01-13-2016, 08:20 AM   #21
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I minimized connection problems by hard wiring the boat ends of my two 30amp cords.
That eliminated six moving connections. The cords are pulled into the boat from a locker inside the boat. A few examples
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Old 01-13-2016, 09:28 AM   #22
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............. We noticed last year that the female end of the extension cord we used the most on the boat was slightly warm while powering one of the heaters. We immediately bought a replacement cord and tossed the old one.
I have found that on many heating appliances, the cord and plug will get warm in use, even straight out of the box. Bad design for sure but it happens.

There's "warm" and then there's "too warm".
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Old 01-13-2016, 09:46 AM   #23
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Keeping cable out of the water is simple for those of us in 2' and less of tidal change. However, those in 9'-10' or more with fixed docks do have a more difficult challenge, especially if they are fairly level with the power stanchion at one extreme or the other.
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Old 01-13-2016, 10:46 AM   #24
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I too went with the "Smart Plug" and like the design and consider it a great improvement to the old system. I know some on here thing of them as an unnecessary expense but I disagree, and I needed to replace the old inlets and cable as to an overheating and charring issue anyway.

I have 2 30A inlets (one for house and one for AC units) and I want to keep it that way so changing to a 50A is not what I want.


Great point regarding space heaters and timely, they eat up amps.

I agree wire and plug should not be much above ambient temp, as in slightly warm.



I will check today as it has been a while, darn cables so easy to overlook.


We had a boat fire two weeks ago directly behind me across the fairway on A dock. From what little I have learned it was started by an never working water tank gauge that was installed by the PO and was ignored and in place for over 5 years. Seems weird but that is all I know, boat was a 40+ planing cruiser and is totaled no damage to surrounding boats.
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Old 01-13-2016, 10:57 AM   #25
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We had a boat fire two weeks ago directly behind me across the fairway on A dock. From what little I have learned it was started by an never working water tank gauge that was installed by the PO and was ignored and in place for over 5 years. Seems weird but that is all I know, boat was a 40+ planing cruiser and is totaled no damage to surrounding boats.
Boat fires are in many ways not all that different from house fires, except for the availability of fuel as accelerant. The majority of house fires are started by a few things. Kitchen fires from unattended items, electrical fires, cigarettes (often in bed), and space heaters. Most boat fires are caused by the same items. Now, boat fires can then get out of control faster, but that's not just due to fuel, also to the materials used in construction and to the small spaces. They then spread much faster at marinas due to the proximity of other boats and the lack of any sort of firewall.
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Old 01-13-2016, 10:58 AM   #26
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The smart plug may indeed be a better design, but it's not standard so if you're out somewhere and damage your power cord you may have a hard time finding a replacement.

I suppose you could carry a spare but that's an added expense. Also, you couldn't' string two cords together to make a longer one when needed.
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Old 01-13-2016, 01:26 PM   #27
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The smart plug may indeed be a better design, but it's not standard so if you're out somewhere and damage your power cord you may have a hard time finding a replacement.

I suppose you could carry a spare but that's an added expense. Also, you couldn't' string two cords together to make a longer one when needed.

Sure you can, only the boat end is an odd fitting the other end is a standard push/twist so that it will fit the dock pedestal, just add a standard cord to that end and you're set.

You are correct regarding the boat inlet needing the push plugs but if you are worried about that just carry an extra Smart plug and you are all set to attach it to any boat cord.




or carry one of these adapters...but remember that this defeats the purpose of getting the poor connection off and away from your boat.


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Old 01-13-2016, 01:38 PM   #28
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While I can see that having a SmartPlug is an upgrade on the boat connection side, in my case, it was the dock side with the standard 30A plug that failed. This connection has been treated with CorrosionX to inhibit corrosion and high resistance connections.

Nothing would have changed if I had a SmartPlug except that I'd have a tougher time finding a fast replacement. The risks at the power pedestal remain the same.
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Old 01-13-2016, 02:37 PM   #29
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Web sites pbase.com and Panbo: The Marine Electronics Hub /smartplug have good illustrations why the smart plug is so much better.
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Old 01-13-2016, 06:08 PM   #30
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Slight drift, but checking cords online, incl Marinco, some are said to be 125v rated, some 125/220v rated. Are there differences?
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Old 01-13-2016, 06:30 PM   #31
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Slight drift, but checking cords online, incl Marinco, some are said to be 125v rated, some 125/220v rated. Are there differences?

Plug configuration.
30A is 125v
50A can be 125v or 220/250 depending.





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Old 01-14-2016, 08:34 AM   #32
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Missing from the chart is the 15A 240V plug and socket.

These are about 1000 times better to use as DC plugs and recepticals , rather than a cigar lighter socket.

Polarized so there are no mistakes, by guests.
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