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Old 07-16-2019, 09:50 AM   #1
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Power to Windlass

I'm installing a Lofrans Project 1000 X2 windlass with all 10mm chain and wonder if it is wise to share a battery with the generator start circuit. It would only be a 30 feet run. 150 amp draw, and wiring would be so simplified.
This is our first entry so please forgive errors.
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Old 07-16-2019, 10:12 AM   #2
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I'm installing a Lofrans Project 1000 X2 windlass with all 10mm chain and wonder if it is wise to share a battery with the generator start circuit. It would only be a 30 feet run. 150 amp draw, and wiring would be so simplified.
This is our first entry so please forgive errors.



It would be cheaper and give better power to have a small deep cycle battery closer to the windlass. If 30 feet is one way, consider it 60 feet as there are two conductors carrying the load, positive and negative. AT 150 amps, the cables will need to be huge to carry the load and hard to run 30ft. A genny start battery would be a pour choice as it is designed to give max power for a 10 to 15-second start cycle.
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Old 07-16-2019, 10:21 AM   #3
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Generator starting batteries are usually Group 24s. I would upgrade it to at least a Group 27 to give you a little better capacity. Then figure out how you will recharge it, hopefully with another source than just the generator DC output which is often poorly regulated and not much amperage. A combiner to the engine alternator output would be a good choice.



Then with 2/0 cables to the windlass you should be fine. 2/0 allows about 0.7 volt drop at 150A and 30' each way. You rarely will pull 150A though.


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Old 07-16-2019, 01:59 PM   #4
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Power to Windlass

Thanks to both of you...the generator battery and windlass are 10 feet apart. My 30 ft run was the longest estimate. I'm thinking a group 27 with high CCA, The right sized cables, breakers etc., and recharge tied to the engine start batteries.
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Old 07-16-2019, 02:59 PM   #5
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Good decision .

Victron now has an inexpensive combiner that can be bought on Amazon for $44. See https://www.amazon.com/Victron-Intel...=AERMGYAT5R869

Use one of these to combine your start and genset battery and another for the start and house batteries and never have to touch your battery switches again.

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Old 07-16-2019, 04:32 PM   #6
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Thanks to both of you...the generator battery and windlass are 10 feet apart. My 30 ft run was the longest estimate. I'm thinking a group 27 with high CCA, The right sized cables, breakers etc., and recharge tied to the engine start batteries.



You're welcome. That works out a lot better in my head than 30ft run oneway.
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Old 07-16-2019, 05:10 PM   #7
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Be sure to put a proper sized fuse in the circuit near the battery and also a battery switch in case you have to turn it off in an emergency. My stern thruster remote went crazy and turned on by itself. If I didn’t have the switch to shut off power I would have had to remove a cable to shut it down. Not easy or quick to do...
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Old 07-17-2019, 07:02 AM   #8
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I wouldn't use just a fuse, as under heavy load you'd likely exceed it. Not long enough to fry wires, but certainly enough to make 'em warm. What you want is a breaker, either on the panel or one designed for a windlass. It doesn't "have to be" near the helm, but it certainly helps to have it close (and rapidly accessible). Because if you're in a situation where getting the anchor retrieved quickly is a factor, and it trips, you don't want to be away from the helm scrambling through panels or hatches.

Maxwell, Lewmar and probably others make panel-mounted breakers for this.

The idea is a fuse 'close' to the battery and then the breaker somewhere else in-line nearer the windlass. This way the breaker trips first and could be easily reset. Bearing in mind that all these pieces add to the total distance required for the circuit. This will affect the gauge of wire that has to be used.

Lastly, batteries are heavy, make sure your desired location isn't going to cause issues, like listing. Or at least know that's an potential issue and factor the added ballast needed on the opposite side.
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Old 07-17-2019, 09:14 AM   #9
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Old 07-18-2019, 09:28 PM   #10
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My stern thruster remote went crazy and turned on by itself. If I didn’t have the switch to shut off power I would have had to remove a cable to shut it down. Not easy or quick to do...
This is something I should look into. I know where my stern thruster shut-off is located... but I don't think I've tracked down where I'd cut off power to my bow thruster.
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