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Old 06-27-2013, 07:37 AM   #21
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Well I've decided to keep it as simple as I can and in the process try and improve my memory. I'm going to leave my electrical system as is and REMEMBER to turn off the electronics before engine starting.

Paul was very helpful in designing an electronics battery setup for me and that's the way I'll go if my memory fails me.
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Old 06-27-2013, 09:12 AM   #22
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I guess I do not really understand the issue here. Our chartplotter has sometimes gone off line if we start with it operating. We no longer do this on the basis that it probably does no good to the electronics and we do not need the electronics activated until the engine has been started. So our usual routine is to start the main engine and let it idle for e few minutes while we get the rest of the boat finally ready to move, and that includes turning on electronics.
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Old 06-27-2013, 09:19 AM   #23
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There are reasons that your electronics would be on and you need to start your engine...

They shouldn't drop offline, especially if you needed them quickly after starting say at anchor in the fog/night and you needed to move quickly. Not many times...but they could arise.

There are many fixes; some very simple, inexpensive and as I always recommend...a bridge/pilothouse electronics battery is a good idea and mandatory as a safety item by the USCG on commercial fishing vessels.
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Old 06-27-2013, 10:39 AM   #24
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There are reasons that your electronics would be on and you need to start your engine...

They shouldn't drop offline, especially if you needed them quickly after starting say at anchor in the fog/night and you needed to move quickly. Not many times...but they could arise.

There are many fixes; some very simple, inexpensive and as I always recommend...a bridge/pilothouse electronics battery is a good idea and mandatory as a safety item by the USCG on commercial fishing vessels.

While my electronics are unaffected by starting our engines (we have always run a separate house bank) I have often thought about a separate electronics battery in case of emergency.

For example if you were experiencing a flooding event, many battery banks are low in the hull (for good reason) making house power one of the first things that goes out in an emergency.

I've always thought that a small 12 volt battery that just powers the VHF would be invaluable as a guaranteed way to call for help.
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Old 06-27-2013, 01:29 PM   #25
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[QUOTE=ksanders;165241]While my electronics are unaffected by starting our engines (we have always run a separate house bank) I have often thought about a separate electronics battery in case of emergency.

For example if you were experiencing a flooding event, many battery banks are low in the hull (for good reason) making house power one of the first things that goes out in an emergency.

I've always thought that a small 12 volt battery that just powers the VHF would be invaluable as a guaranteed way to call for help.[/QUOTE]

Smart man...as I said..after 35 years of assisting boaters...both I and the USCG think so too.
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Old 06-28-2013, 05:57 AM   #26
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If safety is the concern the 35mm parachute flair set might be a better deal than hand held.
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Old 06-28-2013, 09:47 AM   #27
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DC-DC converters | Mastervolt Marine

When I put several ten grand of electronics on an ocean-going sailboat, with a smallish diesel engine and smaller generator, the electronics manufacturer could not solve the problem of electronics dropping out when engines were started. The manufacturer provided a DC DC converter free of charge in lieu of having to deal with a significant produict return. All agreed the electrical system was well designed and installed.

On a sailboat where engines are not necessarily running you don't want to have to shut things down to start an engine, or a generator.
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Old 06-28-2013, 02:31 PM   #28
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"On a sailboat where engines are not necessarily running you don't want to have to shut things down to start an engine, or a generator."

That's why there is a set of house batts and a different battery to start the engine.

NO problem if they are not joined during engine start.

If they are joined during start its an operator problem , or a rotten electric system that was not thought out properly during the boats construction..

This is a non existiant "problem" for 99% of boats.
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Old 06-28-2013, 04:18 PM   #29
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"On a sailboat where engines are not necessarily running you don't want to have to shut things down to start an engine, or a generator."

That's why there is a set of house batts and a different battery to start the engine.

NO problem if they are not joined during engine start.

If they are joined during start its an operator problem , or a rotten electric system that was not thought out properly during the boats construction..

This is a non existiant "problem" for 99% of boats.
FF while I agree it SHOULD be a non problem...I bet there's a lot more than 1% of boats out there with 2 engines and 2 batteries (sometimes a second attached to another to make a third and the 2 batts together is called the house bank.

My old Silverton with twin cat 3208s had one 8D per engine and one was assigned as the "house" batt. I've worked on hundreds of boats that were set up similar...and as I said in one post or another...most boaters are pretty clueless about electrical systems...especially the care and feeding of batteries.
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