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Old 10-29-2013, 11:27 AM   #21
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I put grease, the electrician stuff, on mine and I don't get sparks. Works great at a fraction of the cost of a smart plug.
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Old 10-29-2013, 12:34 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Knot-Enuff View Post
Thanks for all of your comments. We'll taken and I just ordered my Smart Plug conversion kit from Defender Marine. ( best price I could find ). Jk
I got good prices at Shore Power Cords - Marine Electrical Connectors - Smart Plug Only
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Old 10-29-2013, 02:45 PM   #23
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I have the smart plug system, changed over a couple of years ago and I'am very happy with them. Even with the thermal protection I still periodically check the temp of the connection with my ir temp gun, any loose connection can cause resistance and that = heat. I also check the screws on the rotary switch & circuit breakers for tightness once a year, a fire on the boat scares me & proper care of the electric system can prevent it.
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Old 10-29-2013, 04:26 PM   #24
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Marinco shore-power cables and receptacles have a couple of safety features built in:

1. When the male plug is fully inserted, turn it slightly clockwise and it locks in place - pull gently to check that it has.

2. Threaded sealing collars are available in 30 and 50 amp. There is also a threaded sleeve (arrow) for use when joining two cables together. The collar only takes a moment to tighten, seals out the weather and prevents accidental disconnection. I think the pics speak for themselves.
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Old 10-29-2013, 08:45 PM   #25
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Twist &turn power cables were introduced about 1938. A lot of water has gone over the dam since then in power cable design.
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Old 10-29-2013, 09:01 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Capthead View Post
I put grease, the electrician stuff, on mine and I don't get sparks. Works great at a fraction of the cost of a smart plug.
SmartPlug is a lot better and when your insurance company pays for most of the cost........they think it is a better solution..........
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Old 10-29-2013, 09:13 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by Shoalwaters View Post
Marinco shore-power cables and receptacles have a couple of safety features built in:

1. When the male plug is fully inserted, turn it slightly clockwise and it locks in place - pull gently to check that it has.

2. Threaded sealing collars are available in 30 and 50 amp. There is also a threaded sleeve (arrow) for use when joining two cables together. The collar only takes a moment to tighten, seals out the weather and prevents accidental disconnection. I think the pics speak for themselves.
I have the same molded plug like yours, only my locking ring is chromed metal with gasket? I don't unplug mine from the boat very often and this was a good reminder and time to check it anyway. Gasket and contacts were in good shape and I think I will keep it a while longer.
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Old 10-29-2013, 10:10 PM   #28
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Twist &turn power cables were introduced about 1938.
Are you operating from memory here, Walt?
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Old 10-29-2013, 10:34 PM   #29
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Walt, you don't need to put up with this stuff, hit em with your cane!
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Old 10-30-2013, 07:29 AM   #30
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One ez burnout is from short term overload,a 30A cord will run 2 air cond , but every time the second unit starts the cord will be way above its limit.

The Circuit breaker has delay features to stop nuisance trips , so the overload does not pop the breaker.
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Old 10-30-2013, 07:36 AM   #31
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Twist lock (which I think is industry standard not just one manufacturer) and covers are no guarantee that your plug won't burn up...the shore power box can be bad and have an effect on you cord end (one in Annapolis almost melted my new power cord end off one New year's Day morning....
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Old 10-30-2013, 09:55 AM   #32
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Are you operating from memory here, Walt?
Geez, where is my "comeback" when I really need it?
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Old 10-30-2013, 09:57 AM   #33
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Originally posted by Ron T:
I have a 1981 49' Grand Banks. It had one 50 Amp-120VAC and one 50 Amp 120/240VAC plug in both fore and aft. I removed both and replaced with SMART PLUG units, both 30 Amp 120VAC. I think their system is well engineered. I like the locking system and overheat protection. I have seen many boat owners just pull the power cable from the dock box having never shut off the AC input on their vessel or CBs on the dock box power supply. If you did this at night you would notice a spark, flash of energy jumping the contacts. Best procedure is to turn off AC items with in your vessel first then CBs on the dock box, then unplug and stow your power cable. Too many power cables have been dropped in the water with power on. Not a great way to test the dock box C/Bs. Coming in to dock put plug in to both your vessel and to dock box, turn on dock box CBs then turn on items you wish to power with in your vessel.
When you come to your vessel after being away, walk up to the dock box power suppy and wrap your hand around the end of cable. It should not be warm or HOT. Board you vessel and do the same at the power inlet on your boat. It should be ambient temperature also. This also holds true for any electrical heaters you may place on board. The insurance companies love to VOID policies when a vessel has a fire caused by a cheap electrical heater with no safe guards. KING heaters out of Seattle, are one of the few companies making heaters meeting marine safety needs. It is not good luck but good prevention that will keep your vessel safe.
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Ron,

Just to make sure you changed the CB running this part of your system to 30A right? Can't change out a 50A connector with a 30A one without changing the CB.

Jeff
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