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Old 12-29-2013, 06:52 PM   #21
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So if you want it switched and fused here's a suggestion. Always could swap one of the regular rocker switches for a 2 way rocker for that planned windlass to install.
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Old 12-29-2013, 06:58 PM   #22
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That looks like it could handle my needs. I'll browse the Bluesea site to check it out. Always handy to be able to switch everything off that you don't want on. Make sure nobody left a reading light on when you dinghy to the island.
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Old 12-30-2013, 06:14 AM   #23
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Always handy to be able to switch everything off that you don't want on. Make sure nobody left a reading light on when you dinghy to the island. __________________

Easiest done with 2 rotary switches.
1 selects which starting battery will be selected and the second
2 will select which house bank is in operation
#1 is off unless the engine is operating
#2 is switched off leaving the boat.

This assumes the boat will have an Always Hot Bus , that is NOT on any rotary for the bilge pumps and alarm system.

Always nice returning to the boat , switching on house power and NOT hearing the water pump operate, tight system!
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Old 12-30-2013, 04:29 PM   #24
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Here's a pretty clean way of doing it. Looks like those are just regular marine breakers.
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Old 12-30-2013, 04:33 PM   #25
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Thanks N47 - simple yet elegant! I wonder whether there are any switches on the front.
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Old 12-30-2013, 04:41 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunset View Post
Thanks N47 - simple yet elegant! I wonder whether there are any switches on the front.
Yep, those are marine breakers like this.
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Old 12-31-2013, 12:06 PM   #27
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Hmmm - I'll cost those out vs the premade panels with switches and breakers and back lights.
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Old 12-31-2013, 02:36 PM   #28
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One thing I would add, is I have found the need for three different power buses on every boat I have owned. One that is always hot (no battery switches unless it is only between that bus panel and the battery), one that is ignition switched, and one for the house. The hot one is used for bilge pumps, bilge alarms, gas sensors, and things you really don't want someone to inadvertently turn off. The switched one is used for devices that only need to be on if the engine is operating such as gauges, raw water flow alarms, fuel flow meters. The house is for everything else.

By putting all these in the same place, all the fuses/breakers are easily found and not buried in a bundle of wires or a hidden compartment.

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Old 12-31-2013, 03:17 PM   #29
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Tom, I don't suppose you have a sample pic of that set-up?

I am also thinking about how many buses and where to put them to rationalize the wire runs forward, mid, and aft.

There seem to be so many options . . .
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Old 12-31-2013, 06:48 PM   #30
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Here is what I did. I crudely set out a plan on a "breadboard" with the bars, switches, etc. and used Romex to give me an idea of how to wire it (after doing a schematic or two... or ten)

This is the EARLY layout:


elecmockup4 by GonzoF1, on Flickr

Moved to this:


elecmockup3 by GonzoF1, on Flickr

Ten tries later, (and realizing fat wire=large radius) it ended up being this:


wiringfinallabels by GonzoF1, on Flickr

Moved the switches to salon steps:


P1010512 by GonzoF1, on Flickr

Don't use this for anything but idea, but I put diagrams together like this to keep it straight in my head. This may NOT be my final schematic, so use caution with it.
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Old 12-31-2013, 09:21 PM   #31
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Thanks for posting that Tom - it gives me some ideas on how to plan what to do. Our systems are quite different but the technique is transferable.
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Old 12-31-2013, 09:38 PM   #32
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Understood... But I worked so hard on it and had SOOOOO much help from the team here, I never miss a chance to blow my/our horn about it. I am pretty proud of it (even though it's a bit more sloppy than I had envisioned the final design) and it's been a 100% success. These guys here are great.
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