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12-29-2013, 05:52 PM
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#21
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Guru
City: South FL
Vessel Name: Oliver
Vessel Model: Nordhavn 47 Hull# 12
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 3,607
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So if you want it switched and fused here's a suggestion. Always could swap one of the regular rocker switches for a 2 way rocker for that planned windlass to install.
__________________
Thanks, Oliver
M/V Oliver
Nordhavn 47 Hull #12
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12-29-2013, 05:58 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
City: Sharbot Lake
Vessel Name: Manatee
Vessel Model: 1976 Albin 25 DeLuxe
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 278
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That looks like it could handle my needs. I'll browse the Bluesea site to check it out. Always handy to be able to switch everything off that you don't want on. Make sure nobody left a reading light on when you dinghy to the island.
__________________
1976 Albin 25 DeLuxe; 1990 Thundercraft 1750
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12-30-2013, 05:14 AM
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#23
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Guru
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 22,553
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Always handy to be able to switch everything off that you don't want on. Make sure nobody left a reading light on when you dinghy to the island. __________________
Easiest done with 2 rotary switches.
1 selects which starting battery will be selected and the second
2 will select which house bank is in operation
#1 is off unless the engine is operating
#2 is switched off leaving the boat.
This assumes the boat will have an Always Hot Bus , that is NOT on any rotary for the bilge pumps and alarm system.
Always nice returning to the boat , switching on house power and NOT hearing the water pump operate, tight system!
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12-30-2013, 03:29 PM
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#24
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Guru
City: South FL
Vessel Name: Oliver
Vessel Model: Nordhavn 47 Hull# 12
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 3,607
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Here's a pretty clean way of doing it. Looks like those are just regular marine breakers.
__________________
Thanks, Oliver
M/V Oliver
Nordhavn 47 Hull #12
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12-30-2013, 03:33 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
City: Sharbot Lake
Vessel Name: Manatee
Vessel Model: 1976 Albin 25 DeLuxe
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 278
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Thanks N47 - simple yet elegant! I wonder whether there are any switches on the front.
__________________
1976 Albin 25 DeLuxe; 1990 Thundercraft 1750
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12-30-2013, 03:41 PM
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#26
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Guru
City: South FL
Vessel Name: Oliver
Vessel Model: Nordhavn 47 Hull# 12
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 3,607
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunset
Thanks N47 - simple yet elegant! I wonder whether there are any switches on the front.
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Yep, those are marine breakers like this.
__________________
Thanks, Oliver
M/V Oliver
Nordhavn 47 Hull #12
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12-31-2013, 11:06 AM
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#27
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Senior Member
City: Sharbot Lake
Vessel Name: Manatee
Vessel Model: 1976 Albin 25 DeLuxe
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 278
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Hmmm - I'll cost those out vs the premade panels with switches and breakers and back lights.
__________________
1976 Albin 25 DeLuxe; 1990 Thundercraft 1750
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12-31-2013, 01:36 PM
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#28
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Guru
City: Gooding ID/Wrangell AK
Vessel Name: Silver Bay
Vessel Model: Nordic Tug 42-002
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,040
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One thing I would add, is I have found the need for three different power buses on every boat I have owned. One that is always hot (no battery switches unless it is only between that bus panel and the battery), one that is ignition switched, and one for the house. The hot one is used for bilge pumps, bilge alarms, gas sensors, and things you really don't want someone to inadvertently turn off. The switched one is used for devices that only need to be on if the engine is operating such as gauges, raw water flow alarms, fuel flow meters. The house is for everything else.
By putting all these in the same place, all the fuses/breakers are easily found and not buried in a bundle of wires or a hidden compartment.
Tom
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12-31-2013, 02:17 PM
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#29
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Senior Member
City: Sharbot Lake
Vessel Name: Manatee
Vessel Model: 1976 Albin 25 DeLuxe
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 278
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Tom, I don't suppose you have a sample pic of that set-up?
I am also thinking about how many buses and where to put them to rationalize the wire runs forward, mid, and aft.
There seem to be so many options . . .
__________________
1976 Albin 25 DeLuxe; 1990 Thundercraft 1750
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12-31-2013, 05:48 PM
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#30
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Guru
City: Cary, NC
Vessel Name: Skinny Dippin'
Vessel Model: Navigator 4200 Classic
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 5,841
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Here is what I did. I crudely set out a plan on a "breadboard" with the bars, switches, etc. and used Romex to give me an idea of how to wire it (after doing a schematic or two... or ten)
This is the EARLY layout:
elecmockup4 by GonzoF1, on Flickr
Moved to this:
elecmockup3 by GonzoF1, on Flickr
Ten tries later, (and realizing fat wire=large radius) it ended up being this:
wiringfinallabels by GonzoF1, on Flickr
Moved the switches to salon steps:
P1010512 by GonzoF1, on Flickr
Don't use this for anything but idea, but I put diagrams together like this to keep it straight in my head. This may NOT be my final schematic, so use caution with it.
__________________
2000 Navigator 4200 Classic
(NOT a trawler)
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12-31-2013, 08:21 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
City: Sharbot Lake
Vessel Name: Manatee
Vessel Model: 1976 Albin 25 DeLuxe
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 278
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Thanks for posting that Tom - it gives me some ideas on how to plan what to do. Our systems are quite different but the technique is transferable.
__________________
1976 Albin 25 DeLuxe; 1990 Thundercraft 1750
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12-31-2013, 08:38 PM
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#32
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Guru
City: Cary, NC
Vessel Name: Skinny Dippin'
Vessel Model: Navigator 4200 Classic
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 5,841
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__________________
2000 Navigator 4200 Classic
(NOT a trawler)
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