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Old 10-24-2014, 07:03 PM   #21
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I am a new trawler owner and presently wired with two 8D on a perko 1, 2 or all switch as house batteries, they are also wired in as the starting battery for a cummins 6B turbo. I don't really know the age of the batteries. I have a completely separate starting battery for the generator. Battery charger is a Xantrex true charge 40+ multistage.

One 8D tests just fine (looks newer too) but I need to replace the other 8D. I thought I would replace one with golf cart batteries. Does anyone see an issue?
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Old 10-25-2014, 07:10 AM   #22
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We replaced 2 8Ds with six Trojan 105s and put a couple pieces of 1/2" marine plywood (16" X 6 X width of the new batteries) in the battery box to get the battery cover above the taller Trojans.

We did this and hooked two of them up as start and four of them as house, but always run them all together and wish we had wired them that way because it's simpler/cheaper. One advantage in separating them is that if there is a bad cell you can isolate some of them.

Batteries like to be all discharged and charged together, so with this plan they don't discharge as far down and you theoretically have 690 amp hours, but realistically half of that at your disposal. Should one be dumb enough to drop the voltage of the combined bank so far that the engine won't start (I did that once with my old 8Ds) just fire up the genset with its dedicated battery and you'll start up right away. Most old-timers will advise against this practice but we've done this for 25,000 miles and will do it this way next time.

And we equalize every month or so when we are cruising.

Capt Jeff on Adirondack
currently in New Bern, NC
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Old 10-25-2014, 02:14 PM   #23
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I wouldn't recommend mixing battery types and ages in the same bank. How about keeping the good 8D as your start battery in a new box and using the current 2 8D boxes for a 6 GC battery house bank?
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Old 10-25-2014, 05:17 PM   #24
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This worked for me. Start battery for generator on 35 watt solar panel. Stand alone, no charger, genset running then charged from genset. Totally separate from the rest. Only for genset. Stashed are long heavy jumper cables for extreme emergency. That makes for lots of redundancy.

Take the best 8d and make it the main start battery. If your charger does more than 1 bank then do not combine and let your charger flip from start to house, not combined. Otherwise get a controller and make it so, or another panel for the start. I have 10 golf cart for house, start separate but combinable.

Your genset battery is your lifeline. So I like mine stand alone, in all aspects.
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Old 10-26-2014, 06:34 PM   #25
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Thank you for the thoughts, I am still trying to figure out how it is all wired. Each battery 1, 2 and the generator battery are connected to three different poles on the charger so conceivably each should be managed separately by the charger. But I also understand if one of the three is weak, the charger may not manage all appropriately. Is this a correct statement?

My next step is to access the status of each and probably replace both 8D with golf cart batteries in series. I am not sure how the generator start battery fits into the charging system. It is obviously getting charged by the charger and it is also electrically separate from both 1 and 2 on my perko switch as it doesn't run any lights of electronics nor start the engine when the selector on the perko is set to off. Not sure if the generator/alternator does any charging of the gen set battery.

What fun, anew boat is a new career in electrical systems (among others). I recently became aware that in researching and purchasing the boat that I may have glossed over in my mind the challenges of ownership but I will absolutely positively get there!
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Old 10-26-2014, 08:53 PM   #26
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Run, do not walk and get Nigel Calders book on mechanical and electrical systems...try Amazon, best money you can spend, less than $25....
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Old 11-12-2014, 09:24 AM   #27
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I do have a remote basic meter that you can get with Xantrax, the one with all the coloured bars. But an upgrade in the meter department will probably be on my winter project. <snip>
Graham, our Xantrex 2000 fried a few months ago and has been replaced with new everything. So I have the whole Xantrex remote controller / SOC meter in a box, carefully removed and ready for reinstallation. You want it? You can have it for the cost to ship it to you. It will come with the manual so you know how to install and use it.

The only thing you'll need to add is an appropriately rated DC shunt.

Let me know if you want it (via email: basmith@wildfire.net).
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Old 11-13-2014, 02:32 AM   #28
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I get all my batts from “Battery + Bulbs”. Good prices and great service. Local dealer - where the owner as well as employees are at your service. If purchasing a group of batts (multipable of same type or of different types) incentives will be offered and price adjustments are available upon request. At least that’s how it is in our local store! I’ve had zero proble with their batts and not one failure over six years with all still going strong.

Batteries Plus Bulbs and Battery Store €“ Find Battery for laptop, auto, cell phone, SLA, and more - light bulb and LED - Recycling and Sales

Their batteries are manufactured by East Penn.

East Penn Manufacturing €“ The world's largest single site, family-owned lead-acid battery manufacturer
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Old 12-18-2014, 09:12 AM   #29
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I agree with the above posts re: your gen set battery being your back-up if other banks fail. A member of another forum gave me a great idea re: wiring of the separate gen set battery - for those with an on-off batt sw for the gen set - by replacing it with a 1-2-all-off switch and adding one jumper to the start / house bank you gain a tremendous amount of flexibility in combining / isolating banks - 1) ability to charge gen batt from alternator while running, 2) ability to use the house bank to start gen set if needed /desired, 3) ability to use the gen set to supplement start/house banks if needed in an emergency

Also - for those that do not have the house charger capability to charge the gen set batty separately (3 or more bank charger) you can "top off" the gen set batt periodically by combining w/ start or house on a temporary basis.

Some stash a set of jumper cables to allow the above if needed (that was my plan until I was given the above recommendation) the above plan lets you do what you would do w/ jumpers from your battery sw panel for a very modest price and little effort... I have a new switch on order and have it on my To Do list for spring commissioning.
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Old 02-05-2015, 02:05 PM   #30
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Thank you for your responses

I started this thread to find out what the favourite battery might by from you die hard trawler owners. The overwhelming response was for Trojans, but there was a boat show deal that favoured Crown 235 that were sold by Edmonds Batteries in Burnaby B.C. The Crowns are made in Ohio. I thank you for your help, and especially thank Brian Smith who sent me a Link 2000. The install is still on my list.
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Old 02-05-2015, 03:18 PM   #31
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They appear to be similar to the Dyno, East Penn 6V 235 A/hr batteries. I will be buying 4 Dynos from Fisheries to create a new house bank very shortly.

One question for the group. I will be wiring series/parallel of course, but how far apart should the two series banks be from one another before they are wired in parallel? Space is a premium.
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Old 02-05-2015, 03:24 PM   #32
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One question for the group. I will be wiring series/parallel of course, but how far apart should the two series banks be from one another before they are wired in parallel? Space is a premium.
My 6 GC's fit tightly together in 2 8D boxes. They touch without any issues. I have a temp sensor on my smart regulator in case they need less charge due to a temp rise.

I've heard that keeping the cable lengths the same will help even out the voltages across all batteries, but that's in an ideal world. Too many real life variables to prevent that in many cases.
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Old 02-05-2015, 04:51 PM   #33
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I can't see the wisdom of a start bank if you have a genset with its own battery. No, the deep cells aren't designed as start batteries, but they will do it.
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Old 02-05-2015, 05:03 PM   #34
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For starting main propulsion...I like backups to backups.


Every boat can be set up a little different and operated a little different.... no one size fits all....but 2 ways to start the main I would consider a "minimum" setup...not a "maximized" system.
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Old 02-05-2015, 05:37 PM   #35
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For starting main propulsion...I like backups to backups.


Every boat can be set up a little different and operated a little different.... no one size fits all....but 2 ways to start the main I would consider a "minimum" setup...not a "maximized" system.
Totally agree with this. I can cross my mains to start one engine from either battery - worst case I can easily jump from the house.

I have Crown GC's for the house and so far (2 years) they seem to be quite decent.

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Old 02-05-2015, 05:44 PM   #36
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How about Rolls batteries? I am going to look at replacing my two 4Ds with four 6v batteries when the time comes. I don't look forward to hauling two 150lb batteries out of the boat.
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Old 02-05-2015, 06:21 PM   #37
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Rolls have a good reputation and the specs look good.

http://rollsbattery.com/public/specsheets/EHW220.pdf

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Old 02-05-2015, 06:24 PM   #38
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Ya know...a Trojan 105 is listed at 20hr at 228 amps @6 volts. My son in law is a Trojan distributer $120 is the best he can do. $150 is a normal price. Costco has an equiv. interstate, for $88 gives 208 amps at 20 hrs. If the $150 range is the standard I would go with the interstate planning on a slightly earlier replacement. I have 10 batteries and dealing with my son in law is 1200 miles away so not so easy. Costco is right down the street.
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Old 02-05-2015, 06:28 PM   #39
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For most any marine must-have system, batts being a primary:


Redundancy/Back-up, Redundancy/Back-up, Redundancy/Back-up Repeat three times before going to sleep and when first awakening.


In addition to all other batts we have on board our Tolly and tow behind runabout... There is one never used starter/deep-cell combo batt totally isolated in its own black box that is always kept at top charge. When a used starter goes bad it is then placed into service and a brand new isolated batt goes into the black box. We also have independent starter batt for gen set that charges while running the gen and otherwise has its own solar panel providing charge.


For batts - Redundancy/Back-up = Name o' da Game - - > IMHO! LOL
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Old 02-05-2015, 06:35 PM   #40
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Ya know...a Trojan 105 is listed at 20hr at 228 amps @6 volts. My son in law is a Trojan distributer $120 is the best he can do. $150 is a normal price. I do not know If that is with recore or not. Costco has an equiv. interstate, for $88 gives 208 amps at 20 hrs. If the $150 range is the standard I would go with the interstate planning on a slightly earlier replacement. I have 10 batteries and dealing with my son in law is 1200 miles away so not so easy. Costco is right down the street.
I keep seeing Costco batts mentioned. Last time I was in Costco, 4 +/- months ago I found none on the shelves. Floor attendant told me Costco stopped carrying batts?? You still finding batts at Costco? If so, maybe it's just this area.
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