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Old 12-16-2014, 09:00 PM   #21
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Nice work Dave.
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Old 12-17-2014, 08:45 AM   #22
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Old 12-17-2014, 09:10 AM   #23
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Thanks for the link. I had seen it before. The one thing I noticed is that he uses the words "before I fiberglass" at one point, but I never saw him use fiberglass. All he shows is fleece cloth/fabric and fiberglass resin, but not actually the fiberglass itself. Obviously it works and he does beautiful work.
I just want a plain flat panel that wont collect water. If I get the material that I need, I can make it myself. All I will need is a router and an electric drill. Just not sure what I will use. I have some fiberglass and resin laying around on the boat somewhere. I might just make a solid fiberglass panel. and drill it out.
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Old 12-17-2014, 09:27 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony B View Post
Thanks for the link. I had seen it before. The one thing I noticed is that he uses the words "before I fiberglass" at one point, but I never saw him use fiberglass. All he shows is fleece cloth/fabric and fiberglass resin, but not actually the fiberglass itself. Obviously it works and he does beautiful work.
I just want a plain flat panel that wont collect water. If I get the material that I need, I can make it myself. All I will need is a router and an electric drill. Just not sure what I will use. I have some fiberglass and resin laying around on the boat somewhere. I might just make a solid fiberglass panel. and drill it out.
Have you thought about just using a flat piece of Star board

here is a video of them get very fancy with it but it works well for flat panels and is reasonably priced
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Old 12-17-2014, 09:46 AM   #25
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Black StarBoard is actually what I am thinking about.
I will probably order the starboard and gauges next week so when I get back, it will be here waiting for me.
After that project, I will order the sensors.
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Old 12-17-2014, 10:04 AM   #26
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Quote:
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Black StarBoard is actually what I am thinking about.
I will probably order the starboard and gauges next week so when I get back, it will be here waiting for me.
After that project, I will order the sensors.
please take lots of pictures for TF
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Old 12-17-2014, 11:28 AM   #27
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I sure will.
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Old 12-17-2014, 11:36 AM   #28
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I'm debating between 1/4" and 1/2 starboard. There will be lots of holes and was wondering if the 1/4" will be strong enough.
I haven't taken my old dash apart yet and so it appears to be 1/4" thick consisting od a thin sheet of aluminum over something? Probably phenolic. I'm just guessing.
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Old 12-17-2014, 04:59 PM   #29
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Hmmm. I wondered about that too, so I went out to the veranda where I have a piece of 1/2" starboard, 19 X 24 and tried to bow it over my knee. In a case where the board would be unsupported except for it's edges, I'd use the 1/2", not so much for the strength, but I think the 1/4 would tend to rattle. I also compared the 1/2" piece to a chunk of 3/8" marine plywood. The plywood feels stiffer in the same length.

I;ve got some small pieces of 1/4" black starboard. If there was some cross support, I'd probably use that cuz you can screw it down over a crown and it will take its shape. Nice surface, non reflecting, easy clean too.
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Old 12-17-2014, 05:57 PM   #30
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The panel is only going to be about 7 1/2" X 32". I'll be in Biloxi, Ms. this coming week. I think I'll b-bop down to Worst Marine and see what 1/4 and 1/2" feels like, There really wont be any room for a cross brace unless maybe a thin piece of angle iron for a stiffener if I could slide it in somewhere. The panel will be a bit tight for space.
My previous attempt to show what it will look like is the best I can do. I don't have photoshop, just an old free program that came with a cheap printer around 1995.
My only concern with 1/2 inch will be that it might be too thick for some of the switches. I guess I can counter bore the starboard from the bottom side if it needs to be thinner or I can take a look at the underside of my existing panel tomorrow and see what I got. If I can use 1/2", I will feel better about it.
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Old 12-17-2014, 07:52 PM   #31
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Oh yeah, I think I know what you mean now. Just that panel behind the gauges. That would look nice.
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Old 12-17-2014, 09:21 PM   #32
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Thanks Larry, I was hoping you would do that for me. I didn't have the time.
This will really look good in my dinghy with the pilot house. Now I'm like the big boys.
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Old 12-17-2014, 11:37 PM   #33
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I used a textured 1/4" ABS product from my local plastics supplier (Clear Cut) when I upgraded the electronics after buying Tonic. It seemed to be the very same material that was used before. Very easy to cut and drill using normal woodworking tools. It has held a MFD without any distortion for 4+ years so far. The nice thing with the light pebbling is that it doesn't glare or show fingerprints. Note that this is my inside helm. Outside, I do not know how it would stand up to UV, but your local plastics dealer should have that info.

Not sure I'll ever need use it, but the stuff was inexpensive enough that I made a 2nd blank at the same time with only the recessed perimeter mounting holes.
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Old 12-18-2014, 12:10 AM   #34
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I used a textured 1/4" ABS product from my local plastics supplier (Clear Cut) when I upgraded the electronics after buying Tonic. It seemed to be the very same material that was used before. Very easy to cut and drill using normal woodworking tools. It has held a MFD without any distortion for 4+ years so far. The nice thing with the light pebbling is that it doesn't glare or show fingerprints. Note that this is my inside helm. Outside, I do not know how it would stand up to UV, but your local plastics dealer should have that information.
+1..... Works great! Recommended by Industrial Plastics.
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Old 12-18-2014, 08:01 AM   #35
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I'll bet that is what is under my present dash. There is a thin layer of brushed aluminum laminated to something - it's probably that plastic.


Did you have to put any kind of sealer or gasket under the gauges in case of spills. I would think the pebbly surface would not seal tight.
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Old 12-18-2014, 01:31 PM   #36
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Did you have to put any kind of sealer or gasket under the gauges in case of spills. I would think the pebbly surface would not seal tight.
Not really relevant at my near-vertical inside helm, but the pebbling is fairly fine and I would think that any standard rubber-like gasket a gauge or instrument came with would seal OK.
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Old 12-18-2014, 01:51 PM   #37
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New Dash Board

For a flybridge I would go with Starboard but the black may absorb to much heat from the sun, but it is uv proof and not harmed being out in the open.
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Old 12-18-2014, 02:15 PM   #38
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Ron


I am not concerned about the heat because my Bimini is always up and when not traveling, I have a custom canvas that covers the whole dash. I just decided that I was tired of black gauges and thought I would try white. Much easier to read and the white really looks good on a black background. I really don't think I need to have any labeling below the gauges. If I change my mind, I will have to have it engraved
by a sign or trophy maker. Still trying to make up my mind.
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Old 12-18-2014, 05:14 PM   #39
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Might consider black starboard
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Old 12-18-2014, 05:48 PM   #40
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I was thinking of doing it myself with black starboard because I didn't think I wanted lettering. Then I decided to play with the photos one more time and I like the lettering and now will have to have it done commercially. Good thing there is no special hurry YET.
I looked under the dash a few hours ago. Every time I do anything involving wiring, I spend at least 2 days rewiring some stuff and throw away a good amount of old wires. The previous owner managed to get everything wrapped around itself. It's always a nightmare but slowly turning into a decent harness.


Ksanders gave me a great idea when he said "....A method I've used allot is to leave wire in place but cut it off and terminate it at a terminal strip on both ends. Then you can wire from the terminal strip to the devices on each end.......". This will ultimately save me a lot of work. I can run from the engines to the Term Strip while carefully marking and tagging each wire, Then cut the old dash panel loose. This will free me from the rats nest of wires. Then I could make a nice harness working from the dash board back ro the term strip. That should allow me to make a nice wiring harness and allow enough slack to remove and work on the panel in the future.
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