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Old 08-27-2015, 11:31 AM   #121
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Using Inet prices (most from Fisheries Supply) here the $ for a 2x30 amp “refit” (except the last) from and including the boat inlet to the Y, using 50’ cables:

Marinco - $370
Hubbell - $438
S’plug - $654
Marinco 50 amp - $1,090

Rightly or wrongly, I’m through with Marinco. Going to Hubbell, I might save the cost of the new boat side entrance (need to pull that apart and inspect), but I’m not optimistic about its condition after reading some of the above. FF is of the opinion that Hubbell is a better product. Will Hubbell locking rings mate up with Marinco plugs?

Psneed probably has the best setup for eliminating the problem (heavy capacity working at light loading), but there’s initial cost and the need to be humping 50 amp cable around.

As I see it, its Hubbell v Smartplug. Decisions, decisions ……
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Old 08-27-2015, 11:32 AM   #122
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FYI, a 240 50a cord is made up of two 120v legs. So no matter how you are using it, you are pulling 120v through the plug.

Ahh yes. I remember the last time we argued this.
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Old 08-27-2015, 11:58 AM   #123
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I went with Furrion...much less expensive and so far after 1.25 years...satisfied.


As far as humping the cable...I use a short shck cord and start a loop with the power cord...then I just roll it up on the deck or dock. I usually am just ICW so except for open passage stuff...I ony disconnect the dock end...roll...and toss it up on the forward cabin top.


In 10 years when I may be too feeble to lift 50 feet of it...I'll cut off the ends, the cord in half and make 2-24 foot sections.
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Old 08-27-2015, 12:21 PM   #124
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Ahh yes. I remember the last time we argued this.
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Old 08-27-2015, 12:28 PM   #125
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In 10 years when I may be too feeble to lift 50 feet of it...I'll cut off the ends, the cord in half and make 2-24 foot sections.

Im feeble enough for both of us, how about making up 4-10'ers and an 8'
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Old 08-27-2015, 12:38 PM   #126
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Im feeble enough for both of us, how about making up 4-10'ers and an 8'
Naw...too much like a Lego power cord...

At that point I think I would get a Glendenning Cablemaster...

Sweeeeet!
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Old 08-27-2015, 12:47 PM   #127
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You are so wrong on both those points...especially calling me silly may make it three.


The 50A is a totally different design...just how it stays secure I believe is all it takes to be more effective than the 30A.


and where are your stats to prove me wrong staistically?


As I said..if the threat is so real...where is the public and governmental outcry?


I acknowledged that the smart plug is probably a better design...heck there are probably better EVERYTHING that was on my boat when I bought it and even after I replaced it all with 21st century stuff.


But a $5 Timex tells as good a time as a Rolex...it may not last a lifetime...but you get my point I am sure.


You will have the last laugh is my boat burns...I am betting my life it wont...at least not from the shore power cord.


Plus...all you ARE drawing through one of the 50A 125/250 plugs is 125V or so...2 times 110 to 125 volts per leg no matter what. I totally understand my setup...not sure you do.
"Shore power can also be a fire hazard — 11 percent of fires in BoatU.S.’s analysis were started by boats’ AC systems, often at the shore power inlet. AC heaters an" http://threesheetsnw.com/blog/2014/0...ts-catch-fire/

http://www.boatus.com/Seaworthy/magazine/SeaJul10.pdf

"A likely place an electrical fire can start is at the boat's inlet receptacle."
http://www.acegroup.com/us-en/assets...onnections.pdf

http://www.detrick.army.mil/safety/power.cfm

Pleas provide YOUR stats first showing "one in a bazillion" chance of a fire.

You always do this, ask others to provide stats and charts and info when they disagree with you yet you toss out garbage like it is facts without an eyeblink, I guess it's just you being silly.

No I think I am done rolling in the mud with someone that enjoys it so much.

The fire risk is real, look it up.

Boat fires are real and some (many more then 1/bizzillon) are from overheated inlets, look it up.

You may now have the last word, I'm done arguing with you, it's pointless to argue on the internet anyway.

out
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Old 08-27-2015, 01:00 PM   #128
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Here's Boat US cut on it...only a stat so you really don't know the full problem but based on the number of boat fires from shore power 4%, and the advance notice I have seen in my experience living at marinas...I feel confident in my decisions. and my advice.


There are bigger fish to fry....unless you are anal and have lot's of money to spend on your boat...but again...I don't have enough info and longevity on the smart plug to guarantee anything.


1) AC and DC wiring/appliance - 55%
DC shorts/wiring - 30%
DC engine voltage regulator - 12%
AC appliance/heater 4% shore power - 4%
AC wiring/panel - 2%
DC battery charger - 2%
AC power surge - 1%


Why Boats Catch Fire - Seaworthy - BoatUS


USCG accident stats - 75 fires non-fuel related of known origin....using 2014 stats...


http://uscgboating.org/library/accid...stics-2014.pdf


so at 4 percent (call it an average shore power fire rate)...that may be 3 fires last year from shore power...but of unkown cause which could be dang near any reason including pulling away from the dock plugged in.


of course stats are only a stab in space..but they were requested...

I wonder how many shore plugs are being used at any given time? Then factor in the boats many describe here as "abandoned" because the owner hasn't been seen in years...well you get my drift. If you plug and unplug your vessel with any regularity, and observe the ends, plus do a little maintenance as Capt Bill suggests, and of course monitor your loads... I wouldn't FEAR the traditional plugs....I would just be careful.
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Old 08-27-2015, 01:11 PM   #129
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At $200-250 a set for plugs, those 10 footers are going to get expensive.

I would like to explere some additional comments made above. First, regarding "greasing" to discourage corrosion - how exactly is that done? Are we talking about the tangs, the internals of the plug, the "sealing collars" ? And, what type of grease ?

Regarding the 30 a twist lock plugs - I gather the male/female tang arrangements are standard, but will the locking collars (rings) work from brand to brand? Some user comments I've read on line seem to indicate that a Hubbell won't work (locking rings) with a Marinco, for example.
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Old 08-27-2015, 01:34 PM   #130
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Just spray the tangs and socket with Boeshield or something like it on a regular basis.
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Old 08-27-2015, 01:46 PM   #131
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At $200-250 a set for plugs, those 10 footers are going to get expensive.

I would like to explere some additional comments made above. First, regarding "greasing" to discourage corrosion - how exactly is that done? Are we talking about the tangs, the internals of the plug, the "sealing collars" ? And, what type of grease ?

Regarding the 30 a twist lock plugs - I gather the male/female tang arrangements are standard, but will the locking collars (rings) work from brand to brand? Some user comments I've read on line seem to indicate that a Hubbell won't work (locking rings) with a Marinco, for example.
The old style locking rings sorta worked universally..not there seems to be a few different types that I am not so sure about...and good luck putting X's rings on W's cord.

I had to cut the locking ring off my new cord because several marinas I visited would had one style power post receptacle that didn't accept the cord at all with a locking ring on it while many others could even USE the locking ring.
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Old 08-27-2015, 01:54 PM   #132
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pretty rare for the 50 Amp. 125/250 connectors....usually much beefier, aren't hanging by the tangs and obviously carry a much larger load easily.
IMO, reducing the load in relationship to the plug rating has a lot to do with it.

My charter boat has 30 amp 120 volt service. While the air conditioner can run 12 hours a day continuously (it's under sized), the electrical system never sees over 20 amps. I replaced the guts of the receptacle when I purchased the boat as I moved its location. Have the same power cord which wasn't new when I bought the boat. What I find amazing is that in the 16 seasons I've had the boat, disconnecting and reconnecting the plug to the boat 75 to 100 per season, I've never had a problem. 1200+ connections, no anti corrosion spray etc., and clearly a lot of cord flexing. IMO, my good luck has a lot to do with a lower percentage of capacity utilized.

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Old 08-27-2015, 02:02 PM   #133
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".... dang near any reason including pulling away from the dock plugged in ...."

Naw, that couldn't happen. Unless maybe there was a young inexperienced skipper, a new to him sailboat, scantily clad women, maybe a dram or two ...... maybe I just dreamed that.
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Old 08-27-2015, 02:25 PM   #134
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Originally Posted by sbu22 View Post
Using Inet prices (most from Fisheries Supply) here the $ for a 2x30 amp “refit” (except the last) from and including the boat inlet to the Y, using 50’ cables:

Marinco - $370
Hubbell - $438
S’plug - $654
Marinco 50 amp - $1,090

Rightly or wrongly, I’m through with Marinco. Going to Hubbell, I might save the cost of the new boat side entrance (need to pull that apart and inspect), but I’m not optimistic about its condition after reading some of the above. FF is of the opinion that Hubbell is a better product. Will Hubbell locking rings mate up with Marinco plugs?

Psneed probably has the best setup for eliminating the problem (heavy capacity working at light loading), but there’s initial cost and the need to be humping 50 amp cable around.

As I see it, its Hubbell v Smartplug. Decisions, decisions ……
Yes Hubbell rings will work with Marinco inlets just be careful to not cross thread them. We have hubbell shore cords anf Marinco inlets, that i plan on replacing. I like the Stainless threads that the Hubbell inlet has.
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Old 08-27-2015, 02:26 PM   #135
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I spray this on the plugs before i put them in, almost every time.
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Old 08-27-2015, 02:39 PM   #136
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I had to cut the locking ring off my new cord because several marinas I visited would had one style power post receptacle that didn't accept the cord at all with a locking ring on it while many others could even USE the locking ring.
No need to cut... those rings will slip off and back on...just takes a little practice and a little liquid soap helps.
For thoae that haven't seen a disected twist lock plug take a look at Compass Marine how to article on SPlugs.
Rather enlightening.
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Old 08-27-2015, 02:58 PM   #137
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IMO, reducing the load in relationship to the plug rating has a lot to do with it.

My charter boat has 30 amp 120 volt service. While the air conditioner can run 12 hours a day continuously (it's under sized), the electrical system never sees over 20 amps. I replaced the guts of the receptacle when I purchased the boat as I moved its location. Have the same power cord which wasn't new when I bought the boat. What I find amazing is that in the 16 seasons I've had the boat, disconnecting and reconnecting the plug to the boat 75 to 100 per season, I've never had a problem. 1200+ connections, no anti corrosion spray etc., and clearly a lot of cord flexing. IMO, my good luck has a lot to do with a lower percentage of capacity utilized.

Ted
You might be correct...but my reading lead to numerous articles that clearly stated a 30 amp cord in GOOD condition can carry the load...they then go on to say...if not in good condition...problems can arise.

Thus the rub.

I think in your case...one of the big factors is that the plug being removed and replaced constantly helps the connection/corrosion problem. Regular use probably ensures that it is tight and the corrosion gets rubbed off. Sure one could argue that it may lead to looseness from wear..but without data...we can only guess.
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Old 08-27-2015, 03:00 PM   #138
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No need to cut... those rings will slip off and back on...just takes a little practice and a little liquid soap helps.
For thoae that haven't seen a disected twist lock plug take a look at Compass Marine how to article on SPlugs.
Rather enlightening.
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Not this baby...I tried everything... my Hubble and Marinco...yes I could get them off...but not the one on my Furion....I even had extra rings and trying to get one back on when not under pressure to plug in was futile also.

I have dealt with many cords through the years working in the marine business...and that one beat me.
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Old 08-27-2015, 03:35 PM   #139
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Sad thing is if you cut open a 30 or 50A marine cord, it is mostly plastic and filler. Fluff, in other words.

On my dock, I rigged up a 10ga tinned marine cable and put on a 30A industrial end. Super light and flexible and nowhere near as heavy and bulky as a "marine" cord. I do keep a marine cord on the boat for tying up in marinas, but that is pretty rare.

Last "marine" cable I cut up the conductors were not even tinned. But it was pretty old, not sure if new ones are tinned now.

Hate handling 50A cords. Heavy and bulky. Even more fun in the winter when that cheap PVC sheath gets hard as a rock.
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Old 08-28-2015, 12:49 AM   #140
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I suspect there are regional differences in the type of usage that results in differing opinions. I've often found east coasters who did not share the poor opinion of the marincos units. Here in the PNW, you don't have to go far to find crispy marincos, or yearly fires resulting from cords. It's not even disputed. I think the east coast is too cold, boats come out of the water, and people don't regularly try to heat boats in the winter with space heaters. Winter is when we get boat fires here. Heaters run 24/7, they don't take the night off.
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