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Old 02-13-2014, 02:28 PM   #81
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Using a 50 amp service for a 30 amp boat and power cord won't solve anything, in fact it can create a problem that wasn't there before, namely a 30 amp shorepower cord protected only by a 50 amp circuit breaker.

I suggested earlier using an infared thermometer to check the connections for excessive heat. I should have clarified that it should be done both at the boat end and at the dock end.
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Old 02-13-2014, 08:44 PM   #82
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Gentlemen, are you suggesting the cord and plugs should be cold? How warm is "warm?"
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Old 02-13-2014, 09:21 PM   #83
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Gentlemen, are you suggesting the cord and plugs should be cold? How warm is "warm?"
Warm is warmer than they are when current isn't flowing through them. More specifically warmer than ambient temperature or adjacent surfaces. I'll make an off the wall guess of twenty degrees warmer indicates a problem that should at least be investigated.

Since the same current is flowing through both ends of the cable, the temperature would be expected to be about the same at both ends. If one is hotter than the other, again, find out why.
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Old 02-13-2014, 09:53 PM   #84
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Mine is warm to the touch, enough to know its working, and it's the same at both ends. I will investigate anyway.
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Old 02-13-2014, 09:57 PM   #85
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I'm not sure warm all along the cord if it's at max rating is an issue...I'd be much more worried about hot spots or if an area is warm with just minimal current passing...
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Old 02-14-2014, 04:38 AM   #86
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I'm not sure warm all along the cord if it's at max rating is an issue...I'd be much more worried about hot spots or if an area is warm with just minimal current passing...
It's ok for it to be mildly warm at full load over hours of steady use. If it gets much hotter than bathwater, about 55 C or 130F, I would be concerned and look into a heavier gauge cord. I wouldn't trust a hot power cord, especially on these wonderful boats.
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Old 02-15-2014, 04:19 PM   #87
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As a follow up. . . . A representative of SmartPlug has examined the damaged plug and cord installed by the electrician and determined that it was installed properly. He acknowledged it appeared there was a failure in the binding mechanism of the plug. The company offered to replace the damaged plug with a complete 50' cord with molded plug, so long as he surrendered the damage plug. (I don't know if he accepted the offer. HA!) The rep also mentioned that they were looking at an upgrade to resolve the problem.

Mr. Smith CEO SmartPlug will be attending the boaters seminar, May 12th in Anacortes, Wa. (at the Port of Anacortes, Cap Santa Marina office building)
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Old 02-17-2014, 09:13 AM   #88
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Is that kind of setup ABYC compliant?
Yes, it is ABYC compliant
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Old 02-17-2014, 09:14 AM   #89
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Hmmmm, seems to be some more posts suddenly vanished. Where is the one suggesting hardwiring? That is a very common and useful method where it is physically possible as it eliminates virtually all concerns caused by plug and socket problems.

But, like the man said jokingly (that post - and its wink - is now gone for some reason) hard wiring does reduce cruising range.

(There used to be a quote here but it vanished with the post it came from.)


I guess you have longer shorepower cords than most ... about 4000 miles longer I'd say.

Notice the wink? In mystery stories and internet postings a wink is sometimes called a "clue."
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Old 02-17-2014, 10:26 AM   #90
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Do I have this correct - for 3X or so the cost of a 30 amp 110V Marinco I can buy a Smart plug with cord setup that requires the same care and attention?

Further, mine like most marinas will not allow me to mess around with the dock end as only BC Hydro can do that.
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Old 02-17-2014, 10:34 AM   #91
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Do I have this correct - for 3X or so the cost of a 30 amp 110V Marinco I can buy a Smart plug with cord setup that requires the same care and attention?
Yeah, it's an old marketing tradition. Who says a product has to really have intrinsic value?
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Old 02-17-2014, 12:15 PM   #92
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Hmmmm, seems to be some more posts suddenly vanished.
The original post was #48 and the follow-up was deleted by the author within the 1-hour edit window.
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Old 04-10-2014, 12:49 PM   #93
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As a follow-up to my warm-cord question, I found this when I investigated. Fortunately I had a spare plug and this time it's all spooged with dielectric grease.
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Old 04-10-2014, 02:48 PM   #94
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ABYC recommends installing a double throw breaker right before the boat shore plug and after the main AC selector switch. So you have a breaker before the selector switch, before the boats shore power plug, and the dock shore power dock. Every year I disassembe, clean, and tight the plugs.
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Old 04-10-2014, 05:07 PM   #95
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And this. Burnt wire and melted terminal structure.
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Old 08-25-2015, 08:46 PM   #96
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I hope to resuscitate this discussion with this seasoned audience. I couldn’t detect a clear consensus (not that I expected one) from the preceding and was wondering if there are any new developments or thoughts regarding the Smartplug.

I’m tired of fighting the Marinco twist plug fight. I have tried all the tricks (dielectric grease, taped plastic outer shields, etc., etc.) to protect and minimize corrosion on the connectors and still, persistently, wind up with scorched plastic at one or more of the connector pins within a year or so. As well as water in the feed end connector of the 50/30 splitter. In rereading the posts, I saw reference to CorrosionX – maybe I should give that a go.

I know plenty of supposedly salty boat owners that tell me “oh yeah, they do that, just use them until they crumble from the heat – I do that all of the time – no sweat”. Well, I do sweat.

The Smartplug looks like a much better design. The manufacturer info looks good and logical – but that’s how sales pieces are supposed to look. The Smartplug pricing is crazy, but on a life-cycle basis (if the Smartplug performs as advertised) I’ll come out way ahead at the rate I’m going.

I’m assuming that a scorched Marinco twist plug indicates it’s time to replace (and not just attempt to clean up the plug internals) the plug. Correct?

Any sage advice on the subject would be welcome.
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Old 08-25-2015, 09:43 PM   #97
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I went to Smartplugs a couple years ago after having overheating problems with 2 traditional plugs. I installed 2 Smartplug sockets, purchased 1 new cable, and one end-fitting to retrofit to an existing cable (save money, right)?

Two years later I had an overheat in the Smartplug I retrofitted to the existing cable. Called Smartplug and they indicated 1) I probably hadn't properly seated the cable in their fitting correctly and 2) they had redesigned the retrofit plug to make this occurrence less likely. They also sent me a new 50' cable.

I've had no problems at all with their sockets or cables, but would not again try to reuse an existing cord with their system.
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Old 08-25-2015, 09:59 PM   #98
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You can use/change to whatever plug you want. But if the socket on the shore power post is bad it's not going to make much difference.
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Old 08-25-2015, 10:27 PM   #99
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You can use/change to whatever plug you want. But if the socket on the shore power post is bad it's not going to make much difference.

Why is that? Please explain.
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Old 08-25-2015, 11:11 PM   #100
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We have at least 5 at our Marina that have changed the boat owner bought the parts for the shore side and the marina installed I will keep everyone updated as to any problems

now it does not do them any good when at another marina
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