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Old 11-22-2017, 01:10 PM   #21
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I could go the inverter route, but would rather stay with the 12VDC system. The power input supply for the NUC is 19VDC. I could go with a 12VDC to 19VDC converter. Is this a viable option? Readily available and cheap:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-...611babf4ce68-1


another example:


https://www.amazon.ca/Waterproof-Con...p+up+converter

Jim
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Old 11-22-2017, 01:56 PM   #22
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I have researched the NUCs on Intel's website and they accept 12-19VDC, so I don't have to convert power. They come preloaded with Window's 10. I also talked to Rosepoint and the Tech said they use them for boat shows and really like them. So....I think it's going to be a NUC with the Nemo gateway.

Stand by this thread for updates.

Jim
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Old 11-22-2017, 02:31 PM   #23
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One thing to consider might be to upgrade the motherboard in your current computer. You can then keep all your existing connections and power supply. You could also upgrade the disc drive to a SSD. Monoprice.com currently has 500 GB SSDs from Samsung for $160. I have two of them and am very happy with the performance increase.

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Old 11-22-2017, 06:59 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Northern Spy View Post
I'm zeroing in on the NUC.
I have used a NUC with an SSD drive as my home computer for the last year, Win10. Flawless, fast.
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Old 11-22-2017, 07:03 PM   #25
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One advice: These days be just careful to use NUC and not NUKE so we will all survive your new setup

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Old 11-22-2017, 08:31 PM   #26
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I tried one of those 12VDC to 19VDC from Amazon. Didn't work with my computer, a Lenovo, generated some weird lines on the screen. I took it out and decided it was easier to just have a dedicated 400W or so inverter for my electronics.

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Originally Posted by JDCAVE View Post
I could go the inverter route, but would rather stay with the 12VDC system. The power input supply for the NUC is 19VDC. I could go with a 12VDC to 19VDC converter. Is this a viable option? Readily available and cheap:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-...611babf4ce68-1


another example:


https://www.amazon.ca/Waterproof-Con...p+up+converter

Jim
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Old 11-22-2017, 11:14 PM   #27
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Windows 10 on older computers hogs the cpu and memory. I installed on older Dell and cpu use was 99% with no apps running. After a couple weeks of tossing unnecessary parts of 10, got the cpu usage down to about 75%. Also 10 doesn't allow you to control updates. I went back to 7 and will never use 10 again.
I've been on the water for a long time an always had standard computers - non-marine laptops and desktops without problems.
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Old 11-23-2017, 12:01 AM   #28
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Sounds like about any setup should work.
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Old 11-23-2017, 05:52 AM   #29
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Find out what the special forces use ,it should be robust enough for marine use..
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Old 11-23-2017, 08:12 PM   #30
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Marine PC Navition

Hi Jim,

Nice to see I am not alone in PC 12volt navigation options.
Before we sold our Passport 51 yacht last July, we had experimented with various PC nav options. First (2012) was laptop stored for safety in a cupboard, using OpenCPN and MaxSea navigation software. Advantages: 1. the laptop is sealed against most accidental water ingress; 2. nothing rusts internally; 3. power source was 12volt (12V input brick output 19.8volt); 4. spare laptop afforded quick change-over; 5. remotes to larger screen, keyboard and mouse; 6. internal wi/fi, Bluetooth etc. Disadvantages: 1. insufficient USB ports; 2. stored in a cupboard, easy access to open laptop is needed to press 'start' button; 3. poor access to open DVD drive. 4. laptops date quickly. The second system was a custom built PC with 6 USB ports, serial port, VGA port, HDMI port, network port, 12 volt and 110-240 volt power option. I first saw this unit built especially for Tasmanian Marine Police. Size was 9" x 12" x 4" with mechanical drive. The 12 volt power option was achieved using an internal power card capable of dealing with varying voltages from 6.8 to 32.6 volts. We found that shore power/genset power/house battery levels never always guaranteed 12+ volts for the PC. When in the marina we used 240 volt option. This unit lasted four years before hardware upgrades, rust, fan failures and many knocks and bumps forced us to go solid state. Today we are using 240 volt solid state unit with all the above ports. Power is via a small 340 watt inverter mounted near the SS unit. The unit is an ABUS 8" x 8" x 2.5" with four internal hard drives, two previous unit mech drives and two new SS drives. Wireless (not Bluetooth) keyboard & mouse. Ventilation is important for the inverter and PC in the cupboard especially during summer. There are small SS units available, but 6 USB ports and 4 HDs is great. Software is Windows 7 which is just right for MaxSea and Open CPN. Connecting data from instruments is pretty straightforward. Serial to USB connectors into a 8 port USB board (powered independently) allows for connecting SSB/HF; pactor modem; wind/speed/depth/compass data etc. Apart from being 240 volt powered, we were very happy with the result.
We now live aboard MV Otto (trawler) with prehistoric navigation as all the juicy navigation stuff went with the sale of our Passport 51
Cheers Nick and Camilla
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Old 11-24-2017, 11:00 AM   #31
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Thanks Nick: As you indicate from your experience, there is no one way to approach this problem or opportunity, depending on your point of view. I'm leaning towards a NUC, as they are small, affordable, have no moving parts, and provide all the requirements for a stripped down vessel computer. Intel indicates "DC Input Voltage Supported 12-19 VDC". It's not entirely clear what they mean by that and I need to clarify that before installation. I checked the power supply for my laptop with a multi meter and it reads 19 VDC exactly. Is that 19 Volts for the battery charging requirements or also elsewhere on the computer? I talked to Paxcom about my current onboard computer and the tech said that he built only a few 12 VDC units (mine being one of them) and he said that the voltages within the computer varied depending on the location on the "circuit" for want of a better term. As I mentioned, Rosepoint indicated to me that quite a few boaters/users of their software have gone towards a NUC as a solution for their computer requirements.

I reached out to a well known "trans oceanic trawler cruiser" for his advice and he indicated he used a small ATX case with spare parts for everything in the box. Given his background, I guess I shouldn't be surprised that he built his own unit! He did say he would probably go with a super small Lenovo System next time.

I would prefer to find a DC solution if possible, as an AC solution would require some new wiring and breakers etc. It's not a deal breaker though, as my Magnum 2812 inverter/charger is up to the task and we run on inverter when travelling. Typically, the inverter is switched off, when on the hook, unless we require it on for the microwave or AC lighting.

Jim
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Old 11-24-2017, 11:25 AM   #32
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Intel has a 12V 36W Power Adapter


https://click.intel.com/12v-power-ad...ents-2323.html


I have submitted a support request to Intel.


Jim
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Old 11-24-2017, 03:10 PM   #33
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I use OpenCPN, and a usb GPS. I modified an old desktop case. On it is a standard MB and intel core2duo, sata drive, etc...
About 20 foot cable of HDMI for the video, and USB cable runs to a usb hub next to the monitor where I plug in the keyboard, mouse, gps etc...

So at my NAV station all I have is the 17" monitor, usb hub keyboard mouse gps. ALL the software was free. Hardware was cheap and cheap to upgrade when needed.

I have a remote on off switch with LED indicator lights i made to turn on and off the PC which is stored 20 foot away.

For the OS I run Linux Mint. With OpenCPN i use CMAP charts.

For the power, I have to use an inverter or the generator. I have 2 inverters, either can run the PC.
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Old 11-24-2017, 06:28 PM   #34
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I think it is good practice to keep the nav. laptop as "clean" as possible. It should not be connected to the internet except for specific nav. software downloads/updates and only when not being used for navigation. I would turn off automatic windows updates and any other auto functions. Only turn these on when not navigating. It is inexpensive to have an "on-line" computer and a separate nav. unit. Apart from being able to update to current nav. software, I am not sure there is an advantage of win 10 over previous (XP) versions, assuming you are only running the nav. software. The last thing you need is all the crap we go through every day keeping our on-line computer clean, free of virus, other intrusive PUPs, and automatic windows updates, etc. while using it for navigation.
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Old 11-24-2017, 07:32 PM   #35
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I think it is good practice to keep the nav. laptop as "clean" as possible. It should not be connected to the internet except for specific nav. software downloads/updates and only when not being used for navigation...

Agreed. My current nav computer is offline, unless Im doing updates, and it does not have any other programs other than CE, the air at weather caster and the aft camera software running.

Jim
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Old 12-09-2017, 11:38 AM   #36
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Late to the party. Like some others here, I am determined to find a 12-10V charging system for the laptop. I am going to get a Badelf gps box and I note that it comes with a 12-20V plug-in charger. I am wondering whether this will also serve as a charger for the laptop. I'm not really in a position to turn to an inverter on my small boat.
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Old 12-09-2017, 11:47 AM   #37
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I tried one of those 12VDC to 19VDC from Amazon.
How did you wire it into your computer input jack?
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Old 12-09-2017, 12:00 PM   #38
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Weve been using 10-15 vdc input to 19.5 vdc output DC adapters for almost 10 years. This one is at least 5 years old and works on 2 of our Dells.
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Old 12-09-2017, 01:40 PM   #39
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More than happy with our dated Compaq presario cq41 after giving it a SSD and ram boost.
Got rid of win7 and installed Linux mint and its much faster than before.

Linux doesn't update constantly which was my main reason to leave windows.
No virus issues, pop ups , pups etc either.
Leave it connected to mobile hotspot continually, no issues in 2 years.

Opencpn and USB GPS on this as well.
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Old 12-09-2017, 04:12 PM   #40
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Hi JDCAVE.

My $.02: I've used a NUC for electronic charting for two years now. My NUC is hard-wired to ship's DC power (~12.4VDC-13.4VDC). No issues with voltage fluctuations, no need (in my opinion) for a 12V-19V transformer, no need to run from ship's AC. The 22" Dell monitor IS powered from ship's AC via an old modified sine wave Xantrex inverter. I've simply mounted the NUC to the back of the monitor, where the power button is accessible. I run Windows 7 and Coastal Explorer as a nav software.

Scrolling, panning, zooming, etc. of the chart(s) is easy-peasy via the bluetooth mouse, with no discernable latency. For my configuration, it has an adequate number of USB ports. Note I'm not a touchscreen guy, so YMMV should you chose to go that route.

I had my NUC built by my local computer shop, and all-up, including the NUC, the SSD, memory, OS, monitor, bluetooth mouse and keyboard, labor to build and configure, etc. was about $1000. My geeks were very helpful in the specification of the NUC, and subsequent assembly and configuration.

SPIRIT BEAR is a pilothouse trawler, and I have never had a "ruggedization" issue with the NUC, or any other on-board PC for that matter. It doesn't rain much in the pilothouse, and engine vibration is nil. Again in my opinion, "marinization" of an on-board nav system for inside use is simply gross overkill.

FYI, I only use this as a nav computer, with only occasional forays onto the WWW for chart downloads, weather, marina info, telephone numbers, etc. Works good, lasts long time.

Hope this helps.

Pete
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