Lithium battery & component suggestions?

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I am in the research and design stage of a lithium battery bank, and am looking for suggestions on battery manufacturers and BMS systems. This is for an off grid house, which is basically the same as a boat that's fast aground. Assuming success, I will then roll out a similar system on an actual floating boat.

The existing off grid battery system is flooded lead acid, 1300ah, 48V, so I get about 650ah of usable capacity, but it is reaching the end of it's life.

The lithium bank will be LiFePO4, and I'm targeting 300-600ah.

I have looked at a couple of the packaged systems like Victron and Mastervolt, but they are too much of a cost premium (3-4x) over buying cells, and a BMS, so I'm planning on the later.

My first question is about what battery manufacturers I should consider. I have looked at CALB and Winston so far, but am sure there are others. I want a vendor with some track record, or at least as much as anyone has in this field. Who else should I consider?

The second questions is about a BMS. I have seen arguments for varying levels of monitoring and active management. At a minimum, string voltage measurement with charge and load disconnect seems sensible.

Individual cell voltage monitoring would be taking the next step, and would detect cell imbalance that could cause a single cell to run too high or too low before the whole string voltage monitoring detects a problem.

Next would be automatic cell balancing. It's a nice feature, but many people argue that if you manually balance the cells initially and run the pack between 20% and 80% state of charge, then re-balancing is unnecessary. And if you are monitoring individual cells, at least you can detect when re-balancing is required and do it again manually.

And last is temp monitoring. I don't expect this will be much of an issue for the house where the battery location remains a constant 50-65 deg year round. But on a boat, higher temps are likely, and many LiFePO4 batteries have an operating temp of 40C or below.

So what recommendations do people have for a BMS?

OK, that should be enough to get the discussion started.
 
Here's my "boilerplate" LFP summary, mostly from Maine Sail (aka CMS here), please excuse any repetition wrt this thread

Any and all feedback is welcome!

____
Bare cells: ​Winston/Voltronix, CALB, GBS, A123 & Sinopoly

Systems: OceanPlanet (Lithionics), Victron, MasterVolt, Redarc (Oz specific?)

Note nearly **every** vendor, also those of ancillary hardware touted as "LFP ready", gives charging voltages **way too high** for longevity.

My (conspiracy) theory is that manufacturers would prefer their cells get burned out in under 10 years.

EV usage is very different from much gentler House bank cycling. Most EV people talking "lithium-ion" mean other chemistries not as safe as LFP, much shorter lifetimes, and with completely different setpoints and behaviors.

My charge settings for LFP: 3.45Vpc which = 13.8V max for "12V".

Either stop when voltage is hit, or if you want another couple % SoC capacity, stop when tailing amps hits endAmps of .02C, or 2A per 100AH. Note even at the "low" max charge voltage, letting the charge source continue to "push" even low currents long past the endAmps point is **over-charging, and will** greatly reduce lifecycles.

If you can't then "just stop", set Float at 13.1V, but that is a compromise, and *may* shorten life cycles.

With LFP, you don't need to fill up all the way at all, as far as the cells are concerned, in fact it is bad for them to sit there more than a few minutes. Therefore only "fill up" if loads are present, ready to start discharging, ideally right away.

Store the bank as cool as possible and at 10-20% SoC, or maybe higher to compensate for self-discharge, if not getting topped up regularly (I would at least monthly). Letting the batts go "dead flat" = instant **permanent unrecoverable** damage.

Same with charging in below 32°F / 0°C freezing temps.

Persistent high temps also drastically shortens life.

Charging at 1C or even higher is no problem, as long as your wiring is that robust, vendors may spec lower out of legal caution.

Going above 14V won't add much AH capacity, but will shorten life cycles dramatically.

The point is to look at the SoC vs Voltage chart, and avoid the "shoulders" at both ends, stay in the smooth parts of the curve. And of course, we're talking about gentle "partial C" House bank discharge rates, size appropriately and be careful feeding heavy loads like a winch or windlass.

Following these tips, letting the BMS do active balancing is unnecessary and potentially harmful, just look for LVD / OVD and temp protection. Multiple layers of protection are advised if it is a very expensive bank, don't rely on any one device to work.

Check cell-level voltage balance say monthly to start, then quarterly, finally every six months if there are no imbalance issues, but only if that seems safe to you.

This thread is long but informative
http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...or-those-using-them-as-house-banks-65069.html
, make sure to give both Maine Sail and Ocean Planet your close attention.

Also MS' summary notes here
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/lifepo4_on_boats

**Everything** at that site is worth reading, very valuable. He also has great articles in Practical Sailor. His new site under development transitioning the pbase content is here

https://marinehowto.com/support, feel free to make a donation to help with those expenses.

Best of luck and do please report back here
 
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Have you looked at LG?

Yes, a little bit. It appears that currently the only version they have available is the high voltage model which is around 400V. There is a 48V, but it doesn't appear to be available yet, and there is no installation manual or detailed info available.

The BMS is controlled via a CAN bus interface, so I would need to have detailed specs on that to interface to it. I don't know if these BMS interfaces are standardized, but my assumption is that they are not.

For the house system, my inverter company (Schneider electric Conext) actually has an interface box and is certified (or will be, supposedly) to work with the LG Resu 48V battery pack. So it is probably a viable route for that system.

However, it's not viable for the boat since it's 48V only. As a side subject, I have been considering a 48V inverter system, but that brings with it a whole host of other issues and is a subject for another thread. One of my big objectives is to use the house to prototype and and prove a system that can then be used on the boat. Going with the LG system would not accomplish that goal.

Bottom line, I think LG is out.
 
If everything you read about Aquion Energy is true, they are coming back to life with a better battery in early 2018

According to their press releases, they provide better long life performance than just about all other technologies, as long as you don't charge or discharge them too fast, and don't let them freeze.

http://aquionenergy.com/company/overview/
 
Thanks. I've read CMS/MaineSail's stuff which is all very good. And I am working on the Magnum Opus over on Cruisers Forum, but not through it yet.

I was thinking of experimenting with using a PLC for a BMS. Most of the systems are from tiny companies and I don't want to get a dead end system. Cell and string voltage monitoring, temp monitoring, and disconnects should be pretty easy to control, I think. But I'm new to PLCs, so we will see.
 
God I hate all these new mobile-friendly web sites. Pretty pictures, scroll scroll scroll, and no Fu$@$)ing information.

Come on Peter don't be such an old bloke :lol:
I agree these sites are just nice looking marketing display without much valuable info.

L
 
If everything you read about Aquion Energy is true, they are coming back to life with a better battery in early 2018

According to their press releases, they provide better long life performance than just about all other technologies, as long as you don't charge or discharge them too fast, and don't let them freeze.

http://aquionenergy.com/company/overview/

Excellent, and freshly out of Chapter 11 too. I'll pass.
 
Come on Peter don't be such an old bloke :lol:
I agree these sites are just nice looking marketing display without much valuable info.

L


I'm one of the old guys from the Muppets. Either that or I'm Bunsen or Beaker.

Anyway, it's just frustrating when websites that used to contain good downloadable info have suddenly gone hollow. Try to find product info on Furuno's new web site. Very frustrating.
 
You might want to check out CLICK PLC devices since they have modules for all sorts of stuff and are simple to program.

https://www.automationdirect.com/ad...lers/CLICK_Series_PLCs_(Stackable_Micro_Brick)


That's one I was looking at. Do you have any experience with them? They are much less expensive than some others, so if nothing else perhaps a good place to learn and get started. Then I see offerings from ABB, Siemens, Allen Bradley, Eaton, that are much more expensive, but that pretty much run the modern world.
 
I did a small control system with them a few years back. Nothing currently.

Nice thing was DIN rail mounting the whole system and then snap the modules you need together. Their coding system lets you test what you build, if my memory serves correctly.
 
How would these compare to using Arduino or RaspberryPi controllers?

I love the idea of DIY programming for non-essentials like monitoring, notification alarms, logging and reporting

but would really rather rely on known good robust KISS devices for the primary protection layers, ideally from mainstream players like Blue Sea, Victron, BEP, Marinco etc
 
Peter
I can't top the suggestions you've received, but have a few questions on system design. First, how important is individual cell monitoring and are the manual rebalancing remedies simple or an aggravating requirement?

Second, would the land based charging systems be materially different than possible on the water thus affecting commonality in battery design and monitoring?

Third, is there sufficient user experience to suggest LFP batteries age gracefully and are longer lived than flooded cell?

Lastly, for existing flooded cell systems that are working successfully are existing chargers, inverters, combiners etc - usable in a switch to LFP?
 
How would these compare to using Arduino or RaspberryPi controllers?

I love the idea of DIY programming for non-essentials like monitoring, notification alarms, logging and reporting

but would really rather rely on known good robust KISS devices for the primary protection layers, ideally from mainstream players like Blue Sea, Victron, BEP, Marinco etc

I've been considering the Arduino/Pi angle as well. They strike me as more of a home-brew solution than using a PLC, but that might be an unfounded impression. I do expect it would be cheaper. What I do know is that I want something that in the end will be both rock solid reliability, and be maintainable into the future. I have a home monitoring system that I have been running for years, and it is completely un-maintainable now because of abandoned 3rd party products. I also just have to put up with the odd bug here and there in modules that vendors will never fix. So my thinking is that using a system that is built to run machinery day in and day out for a long, long time is a better fit. But I'm new to PLCs, so could be completely wrong.

When you refer to the primary protection layers, I assume you mean the BMS functions? The only thing I have seem from the mainstream players are combined battery+BMS that plug into their chargers/inverters. I am assuming that the control interface is proprietary with all of them, but don't know for sure. The easiest thing to do would be to buy into a packaged system. But they are significantly more expensive than an assembled system. Around 3x more expensive. If it was 50% more, or maybe even 2x I might do it. But right now it's still too much of a premium.
 
Peter
I can't top the suggestions you've received, but have a few questions on system design. First, how important is individual cell monitoring and are the manual rebalancing remedies simple or an aggravating requirement?

The key is that you don't want to over discharge or over charge a cell as it will kill it quickly. One approach is to restrict battery operation to 20%-80% state of charge. The idea is that you stay far enough away from the danger zones to avoid the problem. Slight imbalance between cells doesn't matter because you have stayed far enough away from danger. I have seen recommendations to check individual cells once a month initially to be sure all is working well, then every three months, then every 6 months as you gain confidence that everything is working OK.

For me, I would rather just instrument the battery bank and have per-cell monitoring. Then I can alarm if things start to drift apart, and have the tools to fix it easily. So I am leaning heavily towards per-cell monitoring, especially since this is my first Li battery system and I'll be wanting to keep a close eye on it.

Balancing involves either extra charge for selected cells that have fallen behind, or extra discharge for cells that have gotten ahead. a BMS with balancing capabilities have electronics per cell that can do this. With manual balancing, you need to have an external charger or load that you can apply while carefully monitoring the cell.

Second, would the land based charging systems be materially different than possible on the water thus affecting commonality in battery design and monitoring?

I don't think so, or at least not in my case. For the land system, I have dual solar chargers, plus an inverter/charger. The charger is powered via an auto-start generator. The charging parameters need to be adjusted for Li, but otherwise I don't expect any difference.

On the boat I have more diverse charging sources. There is solar plus inverter/chargers. In addition, there is the main engine alternator, and shore chargers. Parameters need to be adjusted, but I think that's all.

Third, is there sufficient user experience to suggest LFP batteries age gracefully and are longer lived than flooded cell?

Yes, there is. Not nearly as much experience as with LA, and they need to be managed properly where LA batteries are very tolerant of abuse.

2000-3000 cycles seems reasonable to expect. That's as much as 10 years with almost daily cycles. But battery life is only one reason to switch to Li, and not the most compelling at least to me. I think the most compelling parts is being able to charge at full rate right up until they are full, getting rid of the annoying absorption stage in charging LA batteries. Plus being able to run indefinitely at a partial state of charge. This means much shorter generator run time with much more effective charging. At the fast charge rate, I could fully recharge on the boat in 1-2 hrs. And at the house I should be able to fully recharge with the generator in around 2-3 hrs vs 5-6 now.

Lastly, for existing flooded cell systems that are working successfully are existing chargers, inverters, combiners etc - usable in a switch to LFP?

Most modern chargers are able to change, but it does require a careful evaluation. Fully programmable charge parameters are essential. Fixed voltage internal regulator alternators are out, but with an external regulator like a Balmar, it can be adapted.
 
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Here is what I think I know, which may be different from what is true.....

Too soon to tell much, but based on my limited experience so far, my Lithionics 24vdc 300 amp LiGFePO4 batteries are very impressive. If charging is limited to 28 volts, balancing is hardly needed, at least based on what I understand Maine Sails experience indicates. The Lithionics engineers I spoke with confirmed that unless you push to 29 volts +, the BMS built into these doesn't have much to do. They thought that perhaps once a month, or once every few months it might be a good idea to push the charging to that level so that top end balancing via shunts will occur, but they certainly weren't emphatic that it was a necessity.

As I've mentioned elsewhere, I find it perfectly convenient to discharge the batteries by 400 amps or so, then charge and when I observe the voltage hitting 28 and the acceptance rate dropping to 20 amps or so, I stop charging. At that point they are around 95% - 99% full. I store them about 50% discharged. Since the acceptance rate is basically a flat line until full, you can divide the amps used by the input amps and that is how many minutes it will take to fully recharge. Pretty simple. I replaced 1600# of AGM Northstars with 270# of Lithionics and what I like most is that the voltage available is 26.4 volts through to the point where the voltage falls off a cliff at 90% discharge, which I would never typically reach, preferring to re-charge at around 70% discharge.

The only area I am not sure of is memory, so I probably will take them down to 90% discharge and then recharge to 29 volts every six months or so.

In my case the installation was pretty much just remove one set of batteries and replace them with the Lithionics. Very simple.

As always, happy to hear from experts if they think I am doing something wrong, but so far, so good.
 
I want something that in the end will be both rock solid reliability, and be maintainable into the future.
I agree but that first is a much higher priority.

If the cells are healthy over decades and better protective devices appear in that time I won't mind upgrading the latter.

When you refer to the primary protection layers, I assume you mean the BMS functions?
Four functions: LVD/OVD and the same for temperature.

Biggest questions are at what level?

cell / block / string or bank-only?

and how much redundancy?

> The idea is that you stay far enough away from the danger zones

Yes, looking at the volts vs SoC curves, stay away from the "shoulders" at both ends.

> 20%-80% state of charge.

At the low end, I think under 10% SoC may be pushing it but IMO 20% is too conservative a sacrifice. Depends on discharge rates and on how expensive/inconvenient your "on demand" charge sources are.

At the top, sticking to "hit 13.8V and stop" I think is sacrificing no more than 3-5% compared to mfg rated capacity, for quality cells.

> 2000-3000 cycles seems reasonable to expect.

That would be true following vendor charging voltage recommendations and BMS settings. IMO triple that and more is likely **if** sub-C discharge rates and avoiding the curves as above. Even 10000 cycles appears possible, but we just don't know yet.

That strategy may also eliminate the need for

> instrument the battery bank and have per-cell monitoring

Besides cost, be **very** wary of the added complexity, actually causing problems and adding failure points.

> I'll be wanting to keep a close eye on it

I think the inconvenience of checklist routines is well worth the greater safety of doing it manually. As you become intimate and no problems arise, then less frequent is OK.

Automated balancing is definitely way too risky for me, even if a robust open-hardware BMS was gifted to me, I would disable that feature.


> existing infrastructure

charger sources and combiners must be fully setpoint and absorb-hold-time adjustable

start spec'ing that in the years before converting, and you won't need to replace as much

load devices like inverters need no changes, but any built-in LVDs setpoints won't be right anymore.

Kombi inverter/chargers with input-output on the same terminals won't be suitable.
 
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Have you looked at BYD? Their B-Box systems are targeted at residential use, and they are making a push to enter the market here. They have large production facilities, in China. The link has a North American contact on it.
BYD New Energy-B-box
 
Link to actual product spec sheets and manuals would be great.

From here their website seems content-free
 
Link to actual product spec sheets and manuals would be great.

From here their website seems content-free

Not sure who you were referring to? The link I attached does have spec sheets etc, just scroll down a little.
 
just installed 3 Lithium Battery from Mastervot on sail boat, that totally wonderful, not cheap but very nice product, I have captain friend who have 4 Mastervolt battery on néo-classic sail boat since 9 years never had problem and still working perfectly.

Hugues
 
Not sure who you were referring to? The link I attached does have spec sheets etc, just scroll down a little.
Not on my phone, just an endless scroll of badly written marketing slogans and background graphics.

Never mind, doubt I'd be interested anyway.
 

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