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Old 04-14-2013, 08:01 PM   #21
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In the "old days", and probably still today, sail boaters would hoist a kerosene lantern up the mast for an anchor light. No USCG certification that I know of.
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Old 04-14-2013, 08:09 PM   #22
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This is what I replaced my anchor light bulb with.

http://doctorled.com/Dr_LED_PRESS_RELEASE_0612.pdf

I agree with Fred. With the alternators pumping out current there is no need to convert the running lights.
LED lights can be as bright or brighter than incandescent lights. And they don't burn out or fail from vibration.

As I read the regulations, the requirements are the colors, the angle of illumination and the distance that they can be seen. Although the USCG may require US manufacturers to install certified lights (probably a good thing), the rules quoted don't seem to apply to boats manufactured before the rule goes into effect, boats manufactured in other countries, or owner modifications, upgrades or repairs.

Drive around in traffic at night and it's easy to notice how the vehicles with LED tail lights have brighter lights.
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Old 04-14-2013, 11:07 PM   #23
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Actually from reading on TF I just recent;y replaced all of my interior lights.
For my boat, I used:
1. I replaced my under counter florescent with light strips from IKEA. Cutting off the 120 V transformers and wiring them directly for 12 VDC. They are about $12 and really low profile. I made an L shape using 6 strips (two sets).
2. i found 12 DC dual prong (automotive) on Amazon. About $3 each, I was able to get both warm white (2700K) and cool white (3000K). They were exactly as described.
3. Also thru Amazon, from China, i got 12VDC E36 (normal household base) bulbs to replace the ancient bulbs in my berth lights (those brass fixtures that were already dated in 1988 when my boat was built).
4. Lastly, I got long 24 ft reels of blue and white, which I added to my salon, sitting on top of the valance for the shades.

I can send some pictures or exact info if anyone is interested, but won'y be back to boat til next week.

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Old 04-15-2013, 08:22 AM   #24
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...I can send some pictures or exact info if anyone is interested, but won'y be back to boat til next week. Richard
Richard: Pictures please.
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Old 04-15-2013, 08:42 AM   #25
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LED lights can be as bright or brighter than incandescent lights. And they don't burn out or fail from vibration.

As I read the regulations, the requirements are the colors, the angle of illumination and the distance that they can be seen. Although the USCG may require US manufacturers to install certified lights (probably a good thing), the rules quoted don't seem to apply to boats manufactured before the rule goes into effect, boats manufactured in other countries, or owner modifications, upgrades or repairs.

Drive around in traffic at night and it's easy to notice how the vehicles with LED tail lights have brighter lights.

Ron, there seems to be some miss communication here. What I was trying to convey was that running lights are used while underway with engine running. Since the alternator is supplying ample power there is no need to convert those lights to LEDs. On the contrary, LEDs can be as bright or brighter, and the pure color is intense. No problem there. Probably most new navigation fixtures will be LEDs.
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Old 04-15-2013, 08:53 AM   #26
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Ron, there seems to be some miss communication here. What I was trying to convey was that running lights are used while underway with engine running. Since the alternator is supplying ample power there is no need to convert those lights to LEDs. On the contrary, LEDs can be as bright or brighter, and the pure color is intense. No problem there. Probably most new navigation fixtures will be LEDs.
Yes, you have plenty of power available. But, incandescent lamps will burn out at the most inopportune times and the filaments can fail from vibration. The lack of heat means less fading of the lenses. Quality LEDs, properly installed, are lifetime maintenance free lighting.
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Old 04-15-2013, 09:03 AM   #27
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Regarding navigation lights: We have been using LopoLights - they are legal in international waters.

Regarding accommodation lights: We have been using Imtra - for bridge applications they have a series of red/white lights plus dimming solutions where you can adjust to barely on. Also, warm color temps for below decks and cooler for the bridge.

Since we "motor" using electric power, we like using LED for ALL our lighting - only incandescent are the spot light and the light in the microwave (any suggestions?) - even our refrigerator lights are LED.
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Old 04-15-2013, 09:40 AM   #28
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............ - only incandescent are the spot light and the light in the microwave (any suggestions?) - .......
Do you need a light in the microwave?

Actually, the current drawn by the lamp is very small compared to the current drawn by the oven. I don't think it's worth worrying about Cutting your cooking time from 60 to 59 seconds would probably save what the light is using.
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Old 04-15-2013, 09:10 PM   #29
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My bad! The microwave is also the hood over the cook top. The light is UNDER the microwave illuminating the cooking surface and adjacent counter. This light may be on for an hour or two each evening - why use 40 watts when 5 will do the job? You're right, at 1,200 watts, every second that can be shaved off cooking time is significant - good catch!
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Old 04-16-2013, 06:23 AM   #30
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My bad! The microwave is also the hood over the cook top. The light is UNDER the microwave illuminating the cooking surface and adjacent counter. This light may be on for an hour or two each evening - why use 40 watts when 5 will do the job? You're right, at 1,200 watts, every second that can be shaved off cooking time is significant - good catch!
Yes the range hood would be a good place for LEDs but make sure you get warm white. Standard or "cool white" will make the food look weird and unappetizing.
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Old 04-16-2013, 08:51 AM   #31
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Yes the range hood would be a good place for LEDs but make sure you get warm white. Standard or "cool white" will make the food look weird and unappetizing.
That's an old funeral directors trick.
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Old 04-16-2013, 11:04 AM   #32
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That's an old funeral directors trick.
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Old 04-16-2013, 12:54 PM   #33
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Not just funeral directors. Food stores, butcher shops, beauty and makeup shops, etc. While incandescent lamps produce a broad spectrum of light, florescent and LED lamps produce light that has peaks and valleys in the spectrum. I have florescent lamps in my kitchen and bathrooms at home. I use warm white. In the shop and storage areas I use cool white.
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Old 08-21-2013, 10:07 AM   #34
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I have purchased two sets of replacement bulbs from Lowes with the standard household bases to replace the bulbs in my cabin fixtures and neither set has worked. I tried reversing the polarity, because I know that can affect the function of the LEDs, but still the LED bulbs won't work. Any suggestions?
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Old 08-21-2013, 10:13 AM   #35
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can't say...bought 2 the other day...work fine..
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Old 08-21-2013, 10:27 AM   #36
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I have purchased two sets of replacement bulbs from Lowes with the standard household bases to replace the bulbs in my cabin fixtures and neither set has worked. I tried reversing the polarity, because I know that can affect the function of the LEDs, but still the LED bulbs won't work. Any suggestions?
Hmmm. Interesting. I have the same problem. They work at home, but not on the boat. I just said to heck with it, since it was not important and I had other fish to fry. But plan to get back to it. What I will do is to check the LED bulb out in a lamp at home, and then take the lamp down to the boat (with the LED bulb still in there) and plug it in to an A/C socket and see if it works. If it does not, then it has to do with the A/C on the boat. If it does, then it has to do with the fixtures on the boat.

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Old 08-21-2013, 10:45 AM   #37
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Are you sure your boat fixtures are 120 volt? All my boat fixtures for example are 12 volt. I have two lamps that pug into 120 volt outlets.
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Old 08-21-2013, 10:50 AM   #38
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Are you sure your boat fixtures are 120 volt? All my boat fixtures for example are 12 volt. I have two lamps that pug into 120 volt outlets.
My boat is exactly the same. 2 lamps that plug in to the 110 outlets.
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Old 08-21-2013, 11:20 AM   #39
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Are you sure your boat fixtures are 120 volt? All my boat fixtures for example are 12 volt. I have two lamps that pug into 120 volt outlets.
There are both 12V and 110V fixtures. The ones that I am talking about are 110 volts.

I do have a theory (which may or may not be valid). And that is that because an LED bulb draws such a small amount of current, any resistance between the tip of the bulb and the nipple in the fixture is going to be a problem which might not show up with a larger current draw. Therefore, if there is some corrosion in the fixture (not unheard of on a boat) that may be the problem. If so, cleaning out the fixture with a circuit cleanser should do the trick.

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Old 08-21-2013, 01:49 PM   #40
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My fixtures are for sure 12v. But so are my dome lights and I replaced those bulbs (two pin bayonet type) with LEDs
1142 LED Bulb - Single Intensity Dual Contact 36 LED PCB Lamp | BA15 Bayonet Base Bulbs | Boat/RV/Other LED Replacement Bulbs | Boat, RV, and Other Lighting | Super Bright LEDs
One I had to unplug, rotate it 180 degrees, and replug it in - switching the polarity.
So, are there 12v LED bulbs with stabdard bases, that I should be looking for?
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