Lead acid battery life

[Xsbank]

Buy the batteries and put them in. If you have never equalized (US Battery says monthly, Promariner says 4x per year) they are on their last legs. Figure a set of batteries being the same cost as a tank of fuel. If the cases are bulging, it means sulphation has filled the space between the plates and the case; hygrometer testing essential, distilled water. If you ever let the toos of the plates show or discharged below about 12.2 volts...?

The only hard part of all this is getting the buggers in and out of their boxes. Hire a “meaty boy” to do it for you.

I did all this a month ago, about 1.2 boat dollars for 6.

 

[fryedaze]

I don`t get the doubt. The hydrometer reading is better than full, the OP reports no lack of performance. Apart from temp all is normal. The sea won`t open up and swallow the boat when battery performance begin to diminish, there will be indications and there will be time to replace. Unless of course the OP is planning a remote area cruise,then I`d replace.

[emoji106][emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]

 

[fryedaze]

Wow, lots of great feedback as usual. Soooo here is where I am at. I did a 400 amp-hr discharge at 80 amps for 5 hrs. I ran a heater on the inverter. The voltage drop curve was good. I ended up at 11.65 volts under load and it was 12.2 with load off. I then put my 40 amp charger on for 24 hrs. Bart temps never went above 92F. After full charge I equalized for 6 hrs at 40 amps. Batt temps hit 110 F. Specific gravities were all greater than 1.270. These batteries are still healthy. I will run to failure. The way we cruise I can change anytime.
From my initial problem statement, my engine room runs hot and when charging at 180 amps the batteries hit the 122F regulator limit. I will run with the battery box covers open when it's hot out.

 

[Lou_tribal]

Wow, lots of great feedback as usual. Soooo here is where I am at. I did a 400 amp-hr discharge at 80 amps for 5 hrs. I ran a heater on the inverter. The voltage drop curve was good. I ended up at 11.65 volts under load and it was 12.2 with load off. I then put my 40 amp charger on for 24 hrs. Bart temps never went above 92F. After full charge I equalized for 6 hrs at 40 amps. Batt temps hit 110 F. Specific gravities were all greater than 1.270. These batteries are still healthy. I will run to failure. The way we cruise I can change anytime.
From my initial problem statement, my engine room runs hot and when charging at 180 amps the batteries hit the 122F regulator limit. I will run with the battery box covers open when it's hot out.

With what you describe you looks pretty good.

L

 

[Maerin]

From my initial problem statement, my engine room runs hot and when charging at 180 amps the batteries hit the 122F regulator limit. I will run with the battery box covers open when it's hot out.

I have a similar problem, when it's hot like it has been with temps in the 90's, my engine room gets to 130F on a long day's cruise. Yep, it's really toasty. My Cummins is keel cooled, so it runs at 193F, so my bank is in a rather hostile environment. Long ago, I added a 250cfm blower that has an intake at the fresh air louver for the engine room. The blower is ducted to provide a 2" supply to the back of each alternator, and one to the top of the battery bank enclosure. There's another opening on the bottom opposite. I have 6- L16 2V batteries. The blower runs when the engine or genset is running. I've never had problems with alternators getting hot, and the battery bank stays just above ambient outdoor.

 

[BruceK]

Our factory ER blower/extractor( it doesn`t suck, there are good intake vents) makes a real difference to ER temps. The time I forgot to switch it on, ER was way hotter after a 4 hour run than usual.

 

[edcquesada]

Hey Dave,Get new batteries, 5 yrs is long enough for wet cells.
Go to Costco and get a good deal there.
We replaced ours after 5 years.
Ed MV Spring Break Monk 42

 

[O C Diver]

To equalize or not.
The thread raised an interesting question about how often to equalize your batteries. Seems the time intervals are all over the spectrum. Some say monthly to once or twice per year to as needed. Wondering if there are any battery engineers that want to way in on this?

For the record, I have Trojan T-105s. Their recommendation is only when low or wide ranging specific gravity (>0.030) are detected after fully charging a battery. That's less than once a year for me.

Ted

 

[meridian]

Is there a charger that could be used just for an equalizing charge. My two units do not have that feature.

 

[motion30]

Oc diver
that's interesting because I thought I remember Trojan recommending Equalization once a month I will research that a bit because I could be wrong

 

[O C Diver]

Oc diver
that's interesting because I thought I remember Trojan recommending Equalization once a month I will research that a bit because I could be wrong

http://www.trojanbattery.com/tech-support/battery-maintenance/:socool:

Ted

 

[Bruce Palmer]

Interesting. In the link above Trojan seems to address equalizing in "flooded batteries only" as if to ignore AGMs. Anyone know why?

 

[O C Diver]

Interesting. In the link above Trojan seems to address equalizing in "flooded batteries only" as if to ignore AGMs. Anyone know why?

Do you equalize AGMs? Since you can't check the specific gravity, how would you know when to do it, how long to do it, and when it's done?

Ted

 

[sbman]

Equalizing charging is basically overcharging. Overcharging will cause the electrolyte to convert to hydrogen gas (bubbling/boiling) and lose water in the process. With flooded cells you can add more water to make up for the loss.

AGMs don't do well with overcharging. Overcharging can damage the electrolyte which is stored in glass mats. There is no way to repair it, there is no way to add more water or to get the electrolyte back into the mats correctly. AGM batteries typically do not develop the kinds or problems that equalization charging is intended to fix and therefore it should not be done and there is no reason to do it.

 

[dhays]

Do you equalize AGMs? Since you can't check the specific gravity, how would you know when to do it, how long to do it, and when it's done?

Ted

This is a question that I’ve had as well. I have two different types of AGMs on board, Lifeline and US Battery. Both manufacturers have instructions on how to equalize their batteries but are a bit vague as to when it should be done.

 

[sbman]

This is a question that I’ve had as well. I have two different types of AGMs on board, Lifeline and US Battery. Both manufacturers have instructions on how to equalize their batteries but are a bit vague as to when it should be done.

This is interesting. I've used Trojans but not Lifelines. Trojan says not to eqaualize their AGM batteries.

Out of curiosity I looked up a Lifeline AGM user manual and they refer to a 'conditioning' charge which they equate to equalizing. They specify it for situations where the battery has lost capacity and give a number of conditions that it might be appropriate to perform. There is no specific exact measurement given that determines it's time to do the conditioning charge, just some generalities of capacity and charge completion. However, they are very specific with the required voltage, adjusted for temperature.

 

[caltexflanc]

Is there a charger that could be used just for an equalizing charge. My two units do not have that feature.

Almost all of the better charger brands, such as Newmar, have models that provide for that, as do the better inverters, like Magnum.

 

[BruceK]

Equalizing charging is basically overcharging. Overcharging will cause the electrolyte to convert to hydrogen gas (bubbling/boiling) and lose water in the process. With flooded cells you can add more water to make up for the loss.

AGMs don't do well with overcharging. Overcharging can damage the electrolyte which is stored in glass mats. There is no way to repair it, there is no way to add more water or to get the electrolyte back into the mats correctly. AGM batteries typically do not develop the kinds or problems that equalization charging is intended to fix and therefore it should not be done and there is no reason to do it.

I get not equalizing AGMs, but what about sealed "maintenance free" lead acids? Can they be equalized or would being sealed create problems with overcharge. Last one I bought said not to charge above 14.4v.

 

[ben2go]

I had six Trojan T105 batteries last 10 years in a piece of equipment that was used daily. I maintained those batteries religiously. The charger I had used an auto de-sulfate cycle. I don't know how it knew when to run, but it did.

 

[sbman]

I get not equalizing AGMs, but what about sealed "maintenance free" lead acids? Can they be equalized or would being sealed create problems with overcharge. Last one I bought said not to charge above 14.4v.

It really comes down to following the manufacturers instructions. "maintenance free" batteries have facility for the gases generated during charging to recombine into liquid so you don't have to water them. Maintenance free is also known as VRLA or Gas Recombinant batteries and they are also more sensitive to overcharging than standard flooded lead acids.

 

[ranger58sb]

Do you equalize AGMs? Since you can't check the specific gravity, how would you know when to do it, how long to do it, and when it's done?

Lifeline's manual suggests conditioning (aka equalizing), only "when the battery is showing symptoms of capacity loss due to extended time in a partial or low state of charge condition."

Odyssey does not recommend equalizing.

Don't know about other AGM brands.

-Chris

 

[caltexflanc]

Lifeline's manual suggests conditioning (aka equalizing), only "when the battery is showing symptoms of capacity loss due to extended time in a partial or low state of charge condition."

Odyssey does not recommend equalizing.

Don't know about other AGM brands.

-Chris

Depends on what exactly they define as "conditioning" and whether that matches the charger's equalization routine.

 

[ranger58sb]

Depends on what exactly they define as "conditioning" and whether that matches the charger's equalization routine.

The next paragraph in their manual says some makers call it equalizing. Apparently no conceptual difference, in their mind.

It goes on to describe specific voltages, temps, times, etc. That would be the details to mate with the charger. I know some of those are user programmable for those details, but I'd guess prob'ly not all are.

-Chris

 

[fryedaze]

I started this thread back in July for advice on battery longevity. I changed the bank out today after 6 yrs 9 mos. It still had great capacity. The batteries heated up more than I wanted deal with. The wife talked me into the swap before our 1200 mile trip north. The casing were bulges out slightly on sides and bottom. Glad I pulled them. I replaced the 8-6volt with the same Crown CR 235. Almost 7 years of solid performance is pretty good. End of update[emoji41]

 

[OldDan1943]

Dave, bulging cases, time to replace them without question.

 

[fryedaze]

Dave, bulging cases, time to replace them without question.

Agree, always learning.[emoji106][emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]

 

[firehoser75]

Good decision Dave. Seven years of good use is not bad.