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Old 05-22-2014, 11:24 PM   #21
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Some details coming back to me. On the one I did recently, I had to drill out the foot adapter a small amount on the new alternator. The original had something like a 3/8 bolt, but the Balmar was a metric size just under the 3/8. Put the adapter in a vise and drilled it out another 1/32 or so. I also seem to remember the stock alternator had the positive output and a ground (both too small for the new alternator) and two small wires. One was tach output and the other was the on/off trigger for the alternator. You'll use the tach wire through the new regulator. I used the original on/off trigger wire to power the on/off for the new regulator. Just read the instructions for the new alt and regulator and it will walk you through all the details.
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Old 05-23-2014, 06:50 AM   #22
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>One was tach output and the other was the on/off trigger for the alternator. You'll use the tach wire through the new regulator. I used the original on/off trigger wire to power the on/off for the new regulator. Just read the instructions for the new alt and regulator and it will walk you through all the details.<

In most instals the >trigger< wire is wired to the back of the rotary switch (to save the alt from an idiot) , powered from the key switch , its the Field wire.

The tach wire usually goes to the tach .

.> Just read the instructions for the new alt and regulator and it will walk you through all the details.<

Good advise indeed!

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Most proper battery charging is done at the C/10 rating.

A bat of 100A rating (20 hour rate) would be charged at 10A

If its down to the 50%SOC it will take 3 hours to get to 80% and many many more to get to 100%, so is seldom done unless dockside , solar or LOOOng engine hours are done.

This means a good 40A alt will maintain 400A of batteries (about 400lbs worth).

A 70A could charge 700A , 700 lbs of batts .

This is for WLA , wet lead acid batts , what most have .

By doubling the batt cost with AGM a higher charge rate can be maintained.

Big alternators may or may not result in a quicker charge for most folks..
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Old 05-24-2014, 02:32 PM   #23
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I'm using initially 420AH using DEKA's Unigy1 105AH AGM batteries. I have a total of 8 but I am hoping to keep the house bank limited to about 400lbs. By using my Wind generator and 400 watts of MPPT controlled solar I'm hoping the alternative charging will be all that will be needed. Meaning I may stick with the dual 45 amp alternators. My Westerbeke generator can produce 50 amps from it's DC alternator if needed I'll use a BlueSea either 60 or 120 amp ACR to get power to the house bank from the generator if needed.
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Old 05-25-2014, 07:36 AM   #24
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Most alt ratings are BS .

IF you pay enough you can purchase an alt that will acctually put out its rated current when HOT.

Most boat alts come from the car parts bin so expect 29% ot more less output than rated , even with a Smart V regulator.

THe biggest user of power is usually the reefer, it pays well to go expensive and efficient , if you like the hook lifestyle.
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Old 05-25-2014, 09:06 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FF View Post
Most alt ratings are BS .

IF you pay enough you can purchase an alt that will acctually put out its rated current when HOT.

Most boat alts come from the car parts bin so expect 29% ot more less output than rated , even with a Smart V regulator.

THe biggest user of power is usually the reefer, it pays well to go expensive and efficient , if you like the hook lifestyle.
:
You won't get any debate from me about alternator outputs, ratings and temperatures affects on the output produced.
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