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Old 10-12-2019, 11:06 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by ssobol View Post
If the wire gets hot enough to melt the solder you have much bigger problems.
Oh yea, big time trouble
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Old 10-18-2019, 03:31 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by CDreamer View Post
Saw a product that looks to be a good alternative to small soldered wire connections.

https://dayproud.com/products/waterp...ire-connectors



Have you been watching SVSeeker on youtube? Doug Jackson uses those things every where. I think they are good for what they are, but if they ever fail, or you need to change something, you'll loose about 2 inches of wire in that area. A regular but connector with heat shrink will be about a half inch maybe less.
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Old 10-18-2019, 05:19 PM   #23
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A couple things I've discovered about heat shrink:

Adhesive lined heat shrink is much better. I've taken apart a decent amount of wiring and occasionally the heat shrink just slides off.

Heat shrink connectors often get a hole where you crimp them.

I found a few packages of non-adhesive heat shrink and I'm going to use it for sure. But mostly for 'looks', where there isn't much chance of it ever getting wet or exposed to elements etc. Engine room, nav lights, flying bridge and the like get good crimp connectors and adhesive heat shrink.
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Old 10-18-2019, 05:25 PM   #24
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I am a crimp/solder/glue walled shrink type of guy all my life. Rewired about a half dozen boats. (Not a pro by any means, but consider myself the typical dockside mechanic)

Tried these because they were cheap and interesting and thought I’d give them a try.

I would not use them for any wiring permanently. They sorta suck in that the solder does not flow, and if there is any “jerk” on the wire, they will separate.

That being said, I do keep them on the boat for quick repairs if necessary underway. They are super quick and in 4 foot rollers, quick is good.

The only time I ever got seasick on a boat was priming a fuel system in diesel in 3-5 foot short interval waves in a buddy’s boat. (Got the job done, but it was dicey, I was miserable, and it took longer than it should have. )

They are good “stop gap” emergency connections. I burned up a bilge pump while on a trip. Zipped in the back up pump with these and kept cruising. When I got to port, in more ideal conditions, I did the crimp solder wrap set up.

Just 2 cents
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Old 10-18-2019, 05:39 PM   #25
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My typing disappeared. Summary: Never solder on a boat. Everything I have read or been taught. I stick to crimp and adhesive heat shrink, otherwise risk snapping a stiff solder joint on a flexing boat. I know that many disagree.
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Old 10-18-2019, 05:59 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CDreamer View Post
Saw a product that looks to be a good alternative to small soldered wire connections.

https://dayproud.com/products/waterp...ire-connectors
I highly recommend a twisted and soldered connection protected from grounding or shorting by shrink tubing.
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Old 10-18-2019, 07:53 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by ben2go View Post
Have you been watching SVSeeker on youtube? Doug Jackson uses those things every where. I think they are good for what they are, but if they ever fail, or you need to change something, you'll loose about 2 inches of wire in that area. A regular but connector with heat shrink will be about a half inch maybe less.
As I reported earlier, I tested a kit of these in my electrical lab at work. They are very difficult to get the solder to flow correctly even under otherwise perfect conditions with brand new tinned wire. On the ones I did get to flow correctly, I found them to be VERY weak - easily pulling apart with much less force than a standard crimp connector of a similar size could withstand. There is no way I would use them on a boat or recommend them to be used. I thought they could be a good idea for certain uses until I tested them.

Ken
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Old 10-18-2019, 07:59 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by kchace View Post
As I reported earlier, I tested a kit of these in my electrical lab at work. They are very difficult to get the solder to flow correctly even under otherwise perfect conditions with brand new tinned wire. On the ones I did get to flow correctly, I found them to be VERY weak - easily pulling apart with much less force than a standard crimp connector of a similar size could withstand. There is no way I would use them on a boat or recommend them to be used. I thought they could be a good idea for certain uses until I tested them.

Ken
I have not tried them but that is about what I would expect. I know some say they are quick and easy but usually quick and easy doesn’t mean quality work. I will put a bit more time and effort to get good connections.
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Old 10-18-2019, 08:05 PM   #29
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No solder on a boat. Period.
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Old 10-18-2019, 09:32 PM   #30
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No solder on the boat. No silicone on the boat. No bananas on the boat. With so many things banned from the boat how come my boat is full of so much crap?
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Old 10-19-2019, 06:01 PM   #31
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No solder on the boat. No silicone on the boat. No bananas on the boat. With so many things banned from the boat how come my boat is full of so much crap?
I guess you have to ban more stuff....
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Old 10-19-2019, 06:16 PM   #32
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No solder on the boat. No silicone on the boat. No bananas on the boat. With so many things banned from the boat how come my boat is full of so much crap?
Spare parts, booze, those cans of SPAM (just in case) and those ladies you have stashed the bilges, for those cold winters' nights?
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Old 10-19-2019, 06:31 PM   #33
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Greetings,
Mr. fb. "...how come my boat is full of so much crap?" If your speaking literally, I suggest you check your holding tank vent for blockages...Just sayin'


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Old 10-19-2019, 07:11 PM   #34
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I soldier all my connectors. I went to soldier seal connectors that have the shrink tubing and soldier in the connector. Using a small torch or heat gun, you shrink the tubing first to hold everything, and then apply heat to the soldier. It's lower temp soldier and flows easy. On Amazon or eBay.






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Old 10-19-2019, 08:27 PM   #35
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I soldier all my connectors. I went to soldier seal connectors that have the shrink tubing and soldier in the connector. Using a small torch or heat gun, you shrink the tubing first to hold everything, and then apply heat to the soldier. It's lower temp soldier and flows easy. On Amazon or eBay.

What do you use to apply the heat to the solder and where is it applied? If it low enough temp that a heat gun melts the solder I would be concerned about the stability of the joint compared to a typical crimp connector?
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Old 10-19-2019, 08:45 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by Lepke View Post
I soldier all my connectors. I went to soldier seal connectors that have the shrink tubing and soldier in the connector. Using a small torch or heat gun, you shrink the tubing first to hold everything, and then apply heat to the soldier. It's lower temp soldier and flows easy. On Amazon or eBay.





Have you used them much and did you test them for strength and water tightness? I'm not sure if those are the same as the set I tested or if the ones I tested were an inferior knockoff, but the ones I tested were not good. I'm wondering now if I got a cheap copy?

Ken
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Old 10-20-2019, 12:51 PM   #37
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This is great, in 5 years or so when you’ve all sold your boats there will be a flurry of new “PO” posts here about how all this crap soldered wiring needed to be pulled out!
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Old 10-20-2019, 02:26 PM   #38
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They are very difficult to get the solder to flow correctly even under otherwise perfect conditions with brand new tinned wire.
My experience too. I tried both a heat gun and a butane torch. One not hot enough to get the solders flowing. The other too hot and damaged the shrink. As I said, I cut it off and used a crimped connector.
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Old 10-20-2019, 04:13 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lepke View Post
I soldier all my connectors. I went to soldier seal connectors that have the shrink tubing and soldier in the connector. Using a small torch or heat gun, you shrink the tubing first to hold everything, and then apply heat to the soldier. It's lower temp soldier and flows easy. On Amazon or eBay.


So, what's the big advantage? Soldered connections do not meet ABYC standards except under a very few specific applications, and not the applications for which these devices are designed, so why use them? You can create a superior termination with proven crimp technology, why use a method that's proven to be inferior and won't meet marine standards?? :Headscratch: I just don't get it.
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Old 10-20-2019, 04:44 PM   #40
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I don’t understand either. It is simple to make a good approved connection so why go with this? I wouldn’t want to buy the boat filled with this “stuff”,to put it nicely. What if you go to sell the boat and the buyer gets a really good surveyor that catches these connections?
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