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Old 05-12-2012, 07:17 PM   #21
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Forklift: The 8386 was a direct replacement for the one that melted down on Hobo. We have 2-30 amp AC boat circuits fed by either shore power or generator. The switch was definitely an upgrade.


Here's the wiring schematic for the switch.

http://bluesea.com/files/resources/schematic/6337.jpg

Get a hold of Blue Sea or talk to a marine electrician. Without seeing your distribution panel, I hate to say one way or the other.
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Old 05-12-2012, 07:26 PM   #22
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K. Will do.
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Old 05-20-2012, 10:26 AM   #23
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Hello all. I have been talking with a friend of mine (teaches industrial electrical) and am finally going to have time today to run to the boat and determine how much area I have in the control panel, amperage needed and how many poles. I also have two other concerns. 1- I have a CS Generator/Shorepower switch someone in the past mounted beside the steering wheel that has to be flipped to Gen for the front AC to run. My guess is that the boat, originally sold in the north east, only came with the rear AC unit and the associated wiring to this switch was added when the second AC was installed. I need to determine today what it does exactly. 2-I have double 30 amp shore power receptacles (1 pole each I would think), a generator (another pole) and eventually a possible charger/ invertor. Would this require a 4 pole switch?
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Old 05-20-2012, 12:58 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Forkliftt View Post
1- I have a CS Generator/Shorepower switch someone in the past mounted beside the steering wheel that has to be flipped to Gen for the front AC to run. My guess is that the boat, originally sold in the north east, only came with the rear AC unit and the associated wiring to this switch was added when the second AC was installed. I need to determine today what it does exactly.

It sounds like it is used as an on/off switch. Just a guess. Is there a breaker on the main panel for the forward AC unit? Or is there a breaker after the switch? Where does the AC come from that feeds that switch?


Since you have 2-30 amp circuits coming into the boat you can use one circuit for the 2 AC units and their pumps and the other circuit for everything else. It is simple, common and safe to wire AC units that way that were not factory installed.

2-I have double 30 amp shore power receptacles (1 pole each I would think), a generator (another pole) and eventually a possible charger/ inverter. Would this require a 4 pole switch?

You need a 4 pole switch but not for the future charger/inverter. The AC that feeds inverters/chargers comes after the switch. Look at the schematic in post 21 again. I'm pretty sure that's how your old switch was wired. If you're still have questions get a hold of a marine electrician for if nothing else have him take a look at your boats AC wiring. It may be fine and all you need is to replace the switch.
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Old 05-20-2012, 01:11 PM   #25
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Forkliftt, you know I am getting into the electrical next. I've been debating on using a breaker with lockouts and simple switches. Reason is because if the big $600 switch breaks you have to buy another $600 switch. Little switches are cheaper when one goes bad or shorts out.
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Old 05-20-2012, 02:26 PM   #26
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Quote:
The AC that feeds inverters/chargers comes after the switch.
Not true for all inverter/chargers. Mine is a 'pass through' system. I have a two-position rotary switch for SP and Gen that feeds AC to the inverter/charger. The i/c feeds the panel AC. Inverter on/off can be done manually or left in the auto mode to come on when the unit doesn't sense AC source. Xantrex MS-3000
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Old 05-20-2012, 03:45 PM   #27
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Quote:
The AC that feeds inverters/chargers comes after the switch.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Anode View Post

Not true for all inverter/chargers. Mine is a 'pass through' system. I have a two-position rotary switch for SP and Gen that feeds AC to the inverter/charger. The i/c feeds the panel AC. Inverter on/off can be done manually or left in the auto mode to come on when the unit doesn't sense AC source. Xantrex MS-3000
Chip: I think we're talking about 2 different things. My inverter also has automatic pass though for the AC but it gets it's AC after the switch from either shore power or generator.
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Old 05-20-2012, 04:49 PM   #28
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You're right Larry. I read your response wrong. Sorry about that.
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Old 05-20-2012, 05:29 PM   #29
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Update. I pulled switches, breakers, etc. loose, and then reinstalled the defective rotary switch. This allowed me to trace the wiring circuits and change it to what should have been when the "improvements" weremade. Unbelievable mess. Bottom line- and a question I need to have answered ASAP by someone who knows. Am I required to pass the shore power hot AND common through the rotary switch AND a main breaker ( the way Otis from Taiwan) to be ABYC compliant??
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Old 05-20-2012, 08:22 PM   #30
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Forklift - I don't have the ABYC codes in front of me but. Yes you need to have breakers for the hot and common on your main breaker.
Yes you need to keep the hot and common shore power AC and gen set AC segregated from each other. That is best done by switching both legs with the rotary switch.
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Old 05-20-2012, 08:24 PM   #31
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Attached is from Boatowner's Illustrated, electrical handbook by Charlie Wing. I hope it helps.
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Old 05-20-2012, 09:58 PM   #32
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I found some of the ABYC electrical codes online and as I understand it, as mentioned, the hot and common both have to be opened. After studying the schematics provided online by Blue Sea they show the same thing. So....it appears that I am going to order the correct BS Rotary switch (no room for the nicer switch with the polarity lights) and reassemble it as it was. Which accomplishes what the code needs. The problem is that I have two 30 amp "ins" and I need this much because of the two air conditioner units. I read over Chuck's breaker panel upgrade- and in the future this would be the sure cure.
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Old 05-21-2012, 06:36 AM   #33
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"Reason is because if the big $600 switch breaks you have to buy another $600 switch."

Yes , tho I have never had a $9.00 plug or socket die.
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Old 05-21-2012, 12:57 PM   #34
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I think an AC selector switch that is built to go directly from generator to ground power is a bad idea. Unless you are very vigilant and make sure to turn off all loads prior to moving the switch.

Our boat has an old Onan 7.5kw generator and the selector switch is an as-supplied part from Onan. It is a four position rotary switch. The two positions on either side of 12 o'clock select ground power or generator power. A little indicator light comes on to show there is power but the switch is not connected to any AC loads on the boat. The next position down from either of the upper positions connects the switch to the AC breakers

However we never change from ground to generator power without first turning off the master breaker on the AC panel as well as all the other breakers. We make the change, then turn the master breaker on, and then the breakers on for the devices we want-- hot water heater, refrigerator, etc.
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Old 05-21-2012, 02:33 PM   #35
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Our selector is 2 double pole breakers with an interlock. They can't both be on at the same time but they can both be off. Switching from genset to shore or vice versa is dead simple - shut off the appropriate breaker, move the interlock, turn on the other breaker. And if its under load, so what? Its a circuit breaker - its designed to make and break under load. Its a very simple system that appears original to our boat and it works well. I have dreams of a new panel with all the fancy bells and whistles but functionally it would be hard to improve on what we have already.
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