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Old 05-04-2014, 12:51 PM   #1
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ER lights

I would never call myself an Electrician but I did think this was a simple task. I was replacing the original round glass fixture in the er with a fluorescent tube model about 20in. There is only two wires how hard can it be? Hook it up, nothing. connect the other way,still nothing. the new fixture does have a green ground screw but no wire or instructions about needing one. What am I missing?
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Old 05-04-2014, 12:55 PM   #2
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I would never call myself an Electrician but I did think this was a simple task. I was replacing the original round glass fixture in the er with a fluorescent tube model about 20in. There is only two wires how hard can it be? Hook it up, nothing. connect the other way,still nothing. the new fixture does have a green ground screw but no wire or instructions about needing one. What am I missing?

Are the ones your connecting meant for 120v applications?
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Old 05-04-2014, 01:43 PM   #3
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Are the ones your connecting meant for 120v applications?
I'm thinking, Bingo!
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Old 05-04-2014, 02:02 PM   #4
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Are the ones your connecting meant for 120v applications?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------

Good thought.

Try using the green grd. terminal. I have one of these things though in my E.R. and it's just the two D.C. wires, no ground, and it works fine. 15" Marinelight.

Are the tubes actually in the holders properly? Sometimes the tube pins do not make contact with the fingers in the holder untill wiggled just right.

Are the wires between ballast and the holders actually in place?

Are the tubes or at least one of them faulty.

The holders could be faulty.
The ballast could be faulty.

I assume you checked that there is voltage at the ballast.
Any hum, not a guarantee that the ballast works since some of them are dead quiet.

A last test would be use the voltmeter and put the probes in the tube holders and turn the unit on. One probe in holder of one of the tubes at each end.


BE CAREFULL.

i know the 120V units, rapid starts, produce upwards of 350v to start the tubes and once the tube lights that voltage drops to ~ 60V. I have never tested my little 12V unit but I suspect the startup voltage would be similar so be carefull or you could get one heck of a blast.

If you don't see something like that then I would suspect a faulty ballast, new or not.

Just a last warning about flourescents in case someone thinks 350V is ok, Some types of flourescent tubes use upwards of 750V which can give a real blast and ruin your meter. So if you try this at the shop/home be very carefull.
The INSTANT START types are the higher voltage.
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Old 05-04-2014, 02:35 PM   #5
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I would suggest going with the led strip lights as I have done. I little soldering and about 20$ a light. Less than 1 watt of burn and 50k hour life span. Everything can be purchased from amazon and 1/10 the cost of pre made. Click image for larger version

Name:	ImageUploadedByTrawler Forum1399228440.256512.jpg
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ID:	29616 they work on 12v but <10$ and you can connect to 120v. Replaced all my fluorescent and 12v circle lights with them.


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Old 05-04-2014, 02:59 PM   #6
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I would suggest going with the led strip lights as I have done. I little soldering and about 20$ a light.
Nice!! Do you have a parts list or light construction diagram??
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Old 05-04-2014, 03:32 PM   #7
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Could not paste link so hope these pics work. Click image for larger version

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I just took some 20g wire soldered (I'm very inexperienced, but it was easy) to the cut to length strip light. I hobby glued the lights to the aluminum trays. And cleaned up with white shrink wrap.

I'll send pics of the connections later when home. If you need more light you can double up with pre made connectors. Actually you can cut the connectors and use half for your link to the power source. Click image for larger version

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Old 05-04-2014, 03:34 PM   #8
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Also, sorry for the messy ER pic, this was taken as I was replacing the ceiling with the diamond plate, mid project.


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Old 05-04-2014, 05:35 PM   #9
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Also, sorry for the messy ER pic, this was taken as I was replacing the ceiling with the diamond plate, mid project.


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Old 05-04-2014, 06:46 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by C lectric View Post
--------------------------------------------------------------------------

Good thought.

Try using the green grd. terminal. I have one of these things though in my E.R. and it's just the two D.C. wires, no ground, and it works fine. 15" Marinelight.

Are the tubes actually in the holders properly? Sometimes the tube pins do not make contact with the fingers in the holder untill wiggled just right.

Are the wires between ballast and the holders actually in place?

Are the tubes or at least one of them faulty.

The holders could be faulty.
The ballast could be faulty.

I assume you checked that there is voltage at the ballast.
Any hum, not a guarantee that the ballast works since some of them are dead quiet.

A last test would be use the voltmeter and put the probes in the tube holders and turn the unit on. One probe in holder of one of the tubes at each end.


BE CAREFULL.

i know the 120V units, rapid starts, produce upwards of 350v to start the tubes and once the tube lights that voltage drops to ~ 60V. I have never tested my little 12V unit but I suspect the startup voltage would be similar so be carefull or you could get one heck of a blast.

If you don't see something like that then I would suspect a faulty ballast, new or not.

Just a last warning about flourescents in case someone thinks 350V is ok, Some types of flourescent tubes use upwards of 750V which can give a real blast and ruin your meter. So if you try this at the shop/home be very carefull.
The INSTANT START types are the higher voltage.
Yes I checked the tubes and wires and they are good and the light is 120v. But I think I will take it all back and look into the led strips, I really like that Idea, it' bright and with the lights all around you won't have to be in the shadows sometimes.

Thanks!
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Old 05-04-2014, 11:17 PM   #11
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I think you'll be happy with that decision, Slowboat. The low draw of LEDs will payback when you forget to turn off the ER lights and find them still on after a day or two on anchor. Lots of LEDs to pick from. Compare warmth ratings for the comfortable tone for you.
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Old 05-05-2014, 12:34 AM   #12
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Agreed about the LEDs. i am in the process of changing my boat over to all LED.
That may include the E.R. , even the little flourescent.
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Old 05-05-2014, 04:32 AM   #13
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As to the color ratings or color temp, this is a critical item. I have pure white or bright white in the engine room, this is not the color temp I would want on the inside of the cabin, if you are going with inside and like the warm glow of Xeon or halogen lights, make sure you get something in the 2700k range. Not all LEDs that say 2700k are, so try before buying a bunch. It is very hard to truly find a comparable warm light. I have found a few that are close but the admiral always points them out as not the same. As for the engine room, 3000-4500k is fine. It is meant to be clinical feeling down there and those are brighter to me anyway. 1000bulbs dot com seem to have some of the best to choose from.


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Old 05-05-2014, 06:14 AM   #14
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Agreed about the LEDs. i am in the process of changing my boat over to all LED.
That may include the E.R. , even the little flourescent.
You raise an interesting issue. Is there a difference in energy use between fluorescents and LEDs? When I compare lumins they appear about the same with the fluorescents costing a little less in initial purchase price.
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Old 05-05-2014, 07:30 AM   #15
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Polished diamond plate on the ceiling. WOW!
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Old 05-05-2014, 07:57 AM   #16
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Polished diamond plate on the ceiling. WOW!
'Swhat I was thinking too. As for messy...he doesn't know the meaning of the word, does he..?
But yes, the LED strip lighting in great for the ER. I replaced, or rather added as an alternative, LEDs right through the boat, as sometimes we like to add in a bit of good old tungsten colour, but the warm white LED now readily available makes even that on tap now. They came out later. The strip in the ER was the last to go in. I won't be zinc plating my ER ceiling though.
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Old 05-05-2014, 08:31 AM   #17
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We have 4 fluorescent lights in the ER, we love them we also have domes as backups.
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Old 05-05-2014, 10:51 AM   #18
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There's a fairly new series of LED strip lights that are at least twice as bright as the 35XX....believe it's 5050 or 5030 series. Worth the extra cost. I did our kitchen under cabinets with the 3528 and then ripped them all out and replaced with the brighter version when they came on the market. Don't buy the water proof version as the backing glue is terrible.
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Old 05-05-2014, 07:44 PM   #19
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Yes, LEDs are more efficient than floescent. I'm not sure of the exact ratio, but I'd expect around 1/2 the power, maybe even less.
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Old 05-05-2014, 08:25 PM   #20
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Nautibeaver

How did you attach the aluminum channel to the overhead? I assume small sheet metal screws? Also did you wire the lighting direct to the existing wiring from the dome lights? Your set up looks very good and I have been contemplating the same type set up. The 4 dome lights I have really don't throw enough light.
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