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Old 06-03-2014, 08:44 PM   #41
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Have most of you gone with bright white or warm for ER LEDs'? I'm leaning towards bright as mine is mostly bilgekote grey & Volvo green.....

Thanks!
In the engine room, as with an anchor light, the idea is to get the most light for the least amount of heat and power so bright white would be the choice. In the cabin or galley, warm white is a better choice.
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Old 06-03-2014, 09:31 PM   #42
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I went with bright white in the ER and warm elsewhere in the boat.


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Old 06-04-2014, 12:01 AM   #43
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I agree. . . I converted my existing ER lights to bright white LED and I'm very pleased with the results. I'm going to add four more addition lights to brighten it even more.
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Old 06-04-2014, 09:08 AM   #44
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Agreed...cool white in the ER, warm white in the cabin.
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Old 06-04-2014, 01:12 PM   #45
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I replaced the five original incandescent bulbs in our engine room with bright (cool) white T15 wedges: 15w equivalent, 36 LEDs on each. That brought power consumption on the 15-amp circuit down to 1 amp. It was a good improvement, but now I'm getting ready to finish the lighting project.

I've gotten in a 5m flexible rope of "natural" white (4000K) weatherproof LEDs, and I'm going to tie that into the same circuit. Boatloads of lumens at only 4.5 amps. See Search Results For "wfls-nw300x3-wht" | LED Products | Super Bright LEDs for details. (I think I would have slightly preferred products from marinebeam.com, but couldn't find a semi-equivalent from them that suited my plan.)

I'm probably intending to install with simple "mounting" zip ties and stainless screws every X inches or so, since the underside (i.e., engine room side) of the saloon sole is wood framing and easily accessible. It looks like it's actually possible to screw right through the connecting fabric between the two power wires, but I'm not sure that fabric might not tear through. Final action TBD.

I don't have the physical lay-out of the "snake" cast in concrete yet, but I'm hoping to use this first rope as an experiment, covering only one side of the engine room. If the amp meter proves I've still got headroom on the 15-amp circuit, then I hope to add yet another rope to cover the other side of the engine room.

-Chris
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Old 06-04-2014, 06:23 PM   #46
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It's bright white for my ER's. I prefer electric blue for accent lighting. Warm white and red combination fixtures for the ceiling and areas where direct light is needed.
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Old 06-05-2014, 12:14 AM   #47
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One of my clients (an engineer and car tuner) put the rope lights in his engine room under and around the engine (mounted low). This was to fill in the shadow areas that are otherwise unavoidable with ceiling lights only. I think it's a great idea especially for tighter engine rooms.
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Old 06-05-2014, 08:38 AM   #48
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Hmmm... nice idea, Mark, if I can put in a second rope, maybe I'll examine the idea of one overhead and one lower down. Thanks.

-Chris
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Old 06-05-2014, 10:36 AM   #49
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Originally Posted by Daddyo View Post
One of my clients (an engineer and car tuner) put the rope lights in his engine room under and around the engine (mounted low). This was to fill in the shadow areas that are otherwise unavoidable with ceiling lights only. I think it's a great idea especially for tighter engine rooms.
I guess that would be "Jolie"?
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Old 06-05-2014, 11:05 AM   #50
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Hmmm... nice idea, Mark, if I can put in a second rope, maybe I'll examine the idea of one overhead and one lower down. Thanks.

-Chris

So the last segment of my planning was still in the theoretical stages, and just now I've taken another step toward pinning that down. Turns out, it's a 10-amp circuit, not 15 as I had originally hoped.

That in turn means only one rope of this particular size (amps); the existing fixtures (~1 amp) and the new rope (4.5 amps) leaves me less headroom for additional lighting.

Still, maybe I can add either some additional fixtures, and/or a smaller rope, once I get done with this next stage.

In any case, I'm shooting for "operating room" ambience.

-Chris
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Old 06-05-2014, 11:01 PM   #51
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I love these threads, it gets me fired up to make some positive changes to my boat. The admiral is not so sure about me reading about others projects.
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Old 06-07-2014, 11:53 PM   #52
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I was considering putting the led rope inside clear soft PVC to protect it. Good ideas about down low mounting some of these as well.
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Old 06-08-2014, 11:14 AM   #53
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I was considering putting the led rope inside clear soft PVC to protect it.
Wouldn't that increase the heat factor for the diodes? As I understand it, an LED does not take heat all that well.
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Old 06-08-2014, 11:09 PM   #54
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Watts per foot are pretty low on the led ropes. Have not had time to play with this yet. Not liking the PO 110v T15 shop lights. 3 sets of 2 48" ones. Bright but too exposed. Saw some cool looking led fixtures at member recommended sites but out of stock and expensive.
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Old 06-10-2014, 06:25 PM   #55
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Here is another alternative in converting fluorescent to LED. After seeing them on another boat, I was pretty impressed; I know i sound like a tout for this company, and maybe I am as a satisfied customer. The fluorescents in my ERs and generator room haven't burned out yet, so direct experience with these "fluorescent replacements".

LED Fluorescent Replacements 12V and 24V
I actually replaced all the 12" fluorescent tubes on our boat with these (from and RV store, much less expensive). I have been using them a little over a year now and am very happy with the results. I used the strip lights elsewhere and used the little round LED assemblies to replace the bulbs in the round stainless and glass fixtures. I have replace all the 12-volt Lightning on the boat with LEDs (except the navigation lights) and power consumption has gone down about 70%.

Marty..........................
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Old 07-12-2014, 11:59 AM   #56
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I would suggest going with the led strip lights as I have done. I little soldering and about 20$ a light. Less than 1 watt of burn and 50k hour life span. Everything can be purchased from amazon and 1/10 the cost of pre made.
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...How did you attach the aluminum channel to the overhead? I assume small sheet metal screws? Also did you wire the lighting direct to the existing wiring from the dome lights? Your set up looks very good and I have been contemplating the same type set up. The 4 dome lights I have really don't throw enough light.

Nautibeaver: They worked just as you described! Thanks for posting.

We bought 4 channels from Torch Star: 3 3ft Shallow Flush Mount Aluminum Channel U Shape for Flex Hard LED Strip Light | eBay

and the LED lights from:
Super Bright 5630 White 5M 300 LED Fleixbe Light Strip Party Home Decoration SMD | eBay

I cut the LED lights into 1 meter lengths and soldered on a pig tail. The LEDs come with 3M sticky tape to the back, so they stick to the channel. Each channel came with a lense, 2 end caps and 2 mounting clips. I should have ordered another channel since have exactly 1 meter of LED strip left. You could easily cut the channels to 1/2 meter but you would need to order more end caps and mounting clips. Less than $20/light mounted.
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Old 07-12-2014, 02:51 PM   #57
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I replaced the five original incandescent bulbs in our engine room with bright (cool) white T15 wedges: 15w equivalent, 36 LEDs on each. That brought power consumption on the 15-amp circuit down to 1 amp. It was a good improvement, but now I'm getting ready to finish the lighting project.

I've gotten in a 5m flexible rope of "natural" white (4000K) weatherproof LEDs, and I'm going to tie that into the same circuit. Boatloads of lumens at only 4.5 amps. See Search Results For "wfls-nw300x3-wht" | LED Products | Super Bright LEDs for details. (I think I would have slightly preferred products from marinebeam.com, but couldn't find a semi-equivalent from them that suited my plan.)

I'm probably intending to install with simple "mounting" zip ties and stainless screws every X inches or so, since the underside (i.e., engine room side) of the saloon sole is wood framing and easily accessible. It looks like it's actually possible to screw right through the connecting fabric between the two power wires, but I'm not sure that fabric might not tear through. Final action TBD.

I don't have the physical lay-out of the "snake" cast in concrete yet, but I'm hoping to use this first rope as an experiment, covering only one side of the engine room. If the amp meter proves I've still got headroom on the 15-amp circuit, then I hope to add yet another rope to cover the other side of the engine room.

-Chris

So now I've just added a 5m (16.4') "rope" of high-lumen LEDs. The product is http://www.superbrightleds.com/morei...s-x3-wht/1622/. Weatherproof, flexible, 6300 lumens, Natural White (aka bright, 5600K.), nominally 4.5 amps for the complete rope. I would normally have ordered something like this from marinebeam.com, but didn't recognize a good choice there.

A couple BEFORE and AFTER photos:











The pics were all taken with the port engine room hatch open, cockpit day hatch open, no flash. The BEFORE pics were taken yesterday, bright and sunny in the saloon overhead and cockpit. The AFTER pics were taken this morning, dull and overcast in the saloon and cockpit.

I spliced into the existing 10-amp circuit between the 4th and 5th fixtures, and then routed the rope to match the engine room's asymmetry in the forward section. I hung the rope with screw-mount zip-ties spaced about 1' apart using #8 x 5/8" self-tapping screws. The rope comes with adhesive backing, but I just don't think that would last long in this kind of environment. The last foot or so of the LED rope, on the starboard side ahead of the engine, is only temporarily hung; I can't reach that very well from the front (stuff gets in the way of the drill), but I'll re-visit that next time I have the starboard engine room hatch lifted.

The connectors were simple appropriately-sized heat-shrink ring terminals (sized for #8 studs) added to the existing 12 AWG boat wiring (where I made the cuts) and to the 20 AWG leads from the new light rope... and then all three positives were screwed together using #8 x 1/2" screws/two flat washers/Nylock nuts, all three negatives screwed together ditto, Voila!

My intent now is to see how this product works, especially in the engine room environment... and then if it's still good early next year, I'll look to add another whole LED rope further toward the stern. The nominal 4.5 amp consumption with this first rope leaves me a little leeway... and it happens in the analog ammeter on that battery bank, it actually only looks like 4 amps added on the circuit. Anyway, future planning will have to take T15s in the original fixtures and this new 4.5 amp load into account, along with some reserve on the circuit for safety's sake.

Lighting is MUCH better. In fact, we just replaced some engine hoses on Monday (from strainers to water pumps) and I'm getting ready to clean up after that... and the new lighting makes it MUCH easier to see where I need to put most of my attention for that.

-Chris
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Old 07-12-2014, 04:22 PM   #58
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bad image links above...
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Old 07-13-2014, 02:23 PM   #59
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bad image links above...

Sorry, I don't really have a way to post pics here, then.

When I copied/pasted the thread from what I posted on our owner's club forum, it acts (to me) like the pics are visible... so that was sort of a surprise, and I didn't further edit any of the text.

If you can't see 'em, I guess that means it would require access to the club's private area.

The text version is that there's a nifty improvement between before and after

-Chris
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Old 02-15-2015, 08:03 PM   #60
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Looks great Larry. I moved on to another project. Color changing led (5050s) in the flybrdige. I mounted them to the SS rails on the enclosure. Hard to see them when not on and can turn lights on and off via IPhone on and off the boat. They have been known to light up the place in Oregon state beaver orange and Seahawks blue and green! I was able to hide most the wires and the controls utilize wifi signaling. For those with canvas tops on the Flybridge, I would consider. I will post pictures when I get back int he states next week.


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