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Old 05-05-2014, 08:36 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by skidgear View Post
There's a fairly new series of LED strip lights that are at least twice as bright as the 35XX....believe it's 5050 or 5030 series. Worth the extra cost. I did our kitchen under cabinets with the 3528 and then ripped them all out and replaced with the brighter version when they came on the market. Don't buy the water proof version as the backing glue is terrible.
Thanks for the advice, skidgear. I just finished pricing a 10M warm 5050 LED strip with 3 power supplies and dimmer switches for the home kitchen and office at $100 on Amazon. Not bad at all!

Brightness has been my concern with the strips used for task lighting instead of mood lighting. I currently have some halogen puck lights in one area, but they get hot! Do you feel they'd be bright enough to work under-cabinet for kitchen tasks?
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Old 05-05-2014, 09:00 PM   #22
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I would never call myself an Electrician but I did think this was a simple task. I was replacing the original round glass fixture in the er with a fluorescent tube model about 20in. There is only two wires how hard can it be? Hook it up, nothing. connect the other way,still nothing. the new fixture does have a green ground screw but no wire or instructions about needing one. What am I missing?
Were the old lights 120 volt or 12 volt?

I'm assuming the new lights are 120 volt AC because you mention a green ground screw. The ground screw has nothing to do with the operation of the lights, it's there for safety and should be connected to the green ground wire of the circuit powering the lights. I assume the two wires are black and white and they should be connected to the circuit black to black and white to white.

Of course, if you're connecting 120 volt AC lights to 12 volts DC, they won't work. You need different lights.
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Old 05-05-2014, 09:06 PM   #23
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I used the existing dome light 12v wires. I drilled holes in one of the aluminum trays and used SS screws. used the clips for the rest. However the clips worked just as well. Puget sound battle tested as I took 38knt constant winds (gust over 45) last month all the way back for port Townsend.

I did double up the trays in a few spots, 2x attached to same power source. Replaced 4 fluorescent (don't use 120v anymore for lighting down there) and 8 round lights with these. I have 12 total installed. 8 single trays and 2 double. I have more light than the old 8 circle and 4 fluorescents put out.

Here is a picture I just took from my engine room cam (it's a lot of light)Click image for larger version

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Ping me if you need any help getting going, I can whip them out pretty quick these days I have now done the same for my stairway, under bed, under counter, above entertainment system and lazerette on the boat. For 20$ a light (most of that in the tray) and 1$ a foot for the LEDs you can't beat it. I used the 2700k warm LEDs for the under bed, under stairs on the boat. Attached pics. Click image for larger version

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No trays!!!

The backing that comes on them (led strip lights) sucks, so consider hobby glue to get them to stick to trays, wood, what ever.




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Old 05-06-2014, 07:48 AM   #24
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I love the simplicity , with 20,000 hour lights !

Will be copying this thanks !!!!
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Old 05-06-2014, 01:55 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by FlyWright View Post
Thanks for the advice, skidgear. I just finished pricing a 10M warm 5050 LED strip with 3 power supplies and dimmer switches for the home kitchen and office at $100 on Amazon. Not bad at all!

Brightness has been my concern with the strips used for task lighting instead of mood lighting. I currently have some halogen puck lights in one area, but they get hot! Do you feel they'd be bright enough to work under-cabinet for kitchen tasks?
I just checked the brighter LED series used in kitchen....they're 5630s. Sent you a PM.
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Old 05-06-2014, 03:09 PM   #26
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Curious how they are holding up to 14+ volts. The leds I have installed so far, all have a buck / boost circuit to provide them with 12 volts if you supply them with between 10 and 14 volts. Didn't see any listing a voltage range to accommodate alternator elevated voltages.

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Old 05-06-2014, 03:18 PM   #27
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Been running the ones in the master stateroom and on the stairs for 1+ years now, with no issue. The ER ones (same lights) have only been going for 2-3 months.


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Old 05-06-2014, 03:21 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by O C Diver View Post
Curious how they are holding up to 14+ volts. The leds I have installed so far, all have a buck / boost circuit to provide them with 12 volts if you supply them with between 10 and 14 volts. Didn't see any listing a voltage range to accommodate alternator elevated voltages.

Ted
Here is an interesting epistle on the subject. Obviously written by someone with something to sell, but my experiences with this company lead me to trust them, and they really understand the issues on boats.

LED Drivers for marine LEDs
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Old 05-06-2014, 06:50 PM   #29
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Here is an interesting epistle on the subject. Obviously written by someone with something to sell, but my experiences with this company lead me to trust them, and they really understand the issues on boats.

LED Drivers for marine LEDs
Interesting read. Not sure I'm buying the,"everybody elses stuff is bad or will cause radio interference or catch on fire" hysteria. Granted, all of his rhetoric is couched with "can". As you said,"he has something to sell and needs to separate himself from the rest.

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Old 05-06-2014, 06:59 PM   #30
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I just tested 18v (16.3v per my meter with two 9v batteries connected together) going to one of my test strings. Albeit a very short time and seemed to function just fine. No doubt he has a better product, and uses better LEDs, how ever the beauty of the system I put in is, if it breaks, it's the 4$ worth of LED that needs to be replaced. The trays will continue to work. KISS principle.


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Old 05-06-2014, 07:43 PM   #31
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Well there are plenty of other sources for the same information. For instance:

Controlling LED lighting systems: introducing the LED driver - LEDs

I've heard of burn outs and the interference issue when people tried cheapo leds on boats. Just was a discussion on that on another forum. Anyway, only time will tell, now won't it? Your installations look really nice, by the way.
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Old 05-08-2014, 09:04 AM   #32
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ER Lights?

I was browsing ebay and came across these. Going get some and try them in our lazzerette.
LED Lamp 1ft 30cm T5 6W LED Tube Light 2835 300mm Warm White 2800 3500K | eBayName:  ImageUploadedByTrawler Forum1399554243.906509.jpg
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Old 05-08-2014, 10:44 AM   #33
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Could not paste link so hope these pics work. Attachment 29618Attachment 29619

I just took some 20g wire soldered (I'm very inexperienced, but it was easy) to the cut to length strip light. I hobby glued the lights to the aluminum trays. And cleaned up with white shrink wrap.

I'll send pics of the connections later when home. If you need more light you can double up with pre made connectors. Actually you can cut the connectors and use half for your link to the power source. Attachment 29620



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Before I redid the undercounter lighting in our kitchen I looked for fixtures that were wide enough to accommodate multiple strips, as a single string of even the brightest strip lighting I could find (5630's) were not enough to flood the counter tops. I ended up fabricating/ganging three parallel LED strips into a single array to get the job done (and six parallel lengths of 5630 strip lights ganged together on a 4"'x32" corrugated plastic "board" to properly illuminate the cooktop). I anticipate the same problem in the engine room on our boat...a single length of strip lights won't throw all that much light in that dark space....at least not the LED strips that I have experimented with. Which series of LED strip lights are you using? Have you seen any fixtures (with covers) that are wide enough to accommodate more than one run of LED strip? Thanks
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Old 05-08-2014, 11:02 AM   #34
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I have not but did not look that hard for them, I did use 2x of the aluminum trays referenced above for 2 spots to increase the brightness. Oddly enough, when replaced our undercounted lights in the house with LEDs I ended up getting a dimmer because the wife thought it was too bright. The light direction is mostly down so I did install them all over (In the engine room) and it was much brighter that the 4 x large Fluorescent and numerous 12v lights together.

I am using the the 600led strips rather than the 300led. Not sure if that changes things.




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Old 05-08-2014, 11:52 AM   #35
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NB,

OK, thanks. The 600/5 meter strips are probably the lower intensity 3528. The brighter 5630s (possibly some others) are 300/5M. Significant improvement in brightness with the 5630s in my experience. (Our kitchen is very dark with dark cabinets and only one window).

By the way, I've had good experience with an EBAY company whose Ebay Store is HKESUPPLIER. The HK is for Hong Kong, and they drop ship (free) directly to your house. I've purchased their 5M reels of strip light reels, connectors, and both their 6 and 10 amp power supplies. So far so good....
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Old 05-08-2014, 12:11 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyWright View Post
Brightness has been my concern with the strips used for task lighting instead of mood lighting. I currently have some halogen puck lights in one area, but they get hot! Do you feel they'd be bright enough to work under-cabinet for kitchen tasks?
I have 24-volt strip lights behind valances in the pilothouse and saloon. Here shows the effect of strip lights in the pilothouse. Check them out in person next week.

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Old 05-08-2014, 12:29 PM   #37
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Here is another alternative in converting fluorescent to LED. After seeing them on another boat, I was pretty impressed; I know i sound like a tout for this company, and maybe I am as a satisfied customer. The fluorescents in my ERs and generator room haven't burned out yet, so direct experience with these "fluorescent replacements".

LED Fluorescent Replacements 12V and 24V
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Old 06-03-2014, 06:32 PM   #38
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Have most of you gone with bright white or warm for ER LEDs'? I'm leaning towards bright as mine is mostly bilgekote grey & Volvo green.....

Thanks!
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Old 06-03-2014, 07:38 PM   #39
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I prefer the bright white for the ER. There are a lot of different opinions on this subject here on TF. Some find the bright white harsh. I dont, I have bright white through out the boat. I think it give more light.
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Old 06-03-2014, 08:31 PM   #40
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Buyer Be Aware

The fluorescent strip lights typically sold at Home Depot and Lowes are not worth the money you pay. The ballast (transformers) are usually made in China and sometimes do not work new out of the box. Pay more and get a good quality light no matter what source LED or fluorescent. I would personally stay away from halogen or incandescent (energy hogs).
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