Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 04-20-2012, 07:36 AM   #21
Guru
 
Fotoman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 621
I don't recommend rope light for the engine room. They give a weak yellowish light. Perfect to create an ambiance in the salon (as I have done and I love it) but less than ideal in an engine room where you need a lot of bright light to do some work and see small things.

I have 4 incandescent lights placed on each side of the engine, one on the front and one in the back. If need be I also have a headlamp.

LED would be the way to go for me if I had to do it again and found some affordable fixtures.
__________________
Advertisement

Fotoman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2012, 09:29 PM   #22
Senior Member
 
charles's Avatar
 
City: patterson
Country: usa
Vessel Model: CHB 45 Pilot House
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 158
For 120v I used several, I think 4 tube florescent light fixtures, from the corner hardware store, all routed to one switch near the main hatch. Cheap, easy and lots of light.
__________________

__________________
Charles C Culotta, Jr
Patterson, La.
SUPPORT OUR TROOPS
charles is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-21-2012, 10:18 AM   #23
Guru
 
City: North Charleston, SC
Country: USA
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,390
Just a warning - Many of the lights mentioned are unsafe for use in a gasoline powered boat's engine room. Diesel is fine, gasoline must be ignition protected..

Same for switches.
rwidman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-21-2012, 11:21 AM   #24
Guru
 
fryedaze's Avatar
 
City: Solomons Island Md
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Fryedaze
Vessel Model: MC 42 (Overseas Ltd) Monk 42
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,052
LED opinion

In the last 6 months I have upgraded most of Fryedaze lighting to LED. I prefer the clean white light they give off. I agree with the previous comment that LED brightness has greatly improved. I removed the four 10 watt dome style lites in my engine room and replaced them with five 24" LED bars from superbrightLed. Power consumption is about the same due to the size of the new LED bars, but the engine room is very bright. I have also retrofitted flourecent fixtures with LEDs. The end result is a fraction of the load and more light. I am a fan of LEDs. If they dont hold up to their longevity claims I wont be a fan of LEDs. Here are a few pictures of what was done. Fryedaze - Lighting upgrade

IMHO

Dave Frye
Fryedaze
fryedaze is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-21-2012, 04:24 PM   #25
Senior Member
 
Fighterpilot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 373
Dave, The 24 inch light bars look like a good solution for my engine room as well. Now that I have seen your cabin lights I think I will try to improve mine as well.

What was the item number of the bar lights you ordered for the engine room and for the cabin. I have been to their web site but need a little help in selecting. Did you use the existing 12 volt dc power source that was at your old lights? Thanks
Fighterpilot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-21-2012, 05:38 PM   #26
Guru
 
fryedaze's Avatar
 
City: Solomons Island Md
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Fryedaze
Vessel Model: MC 42 (Overseas Ltd) Monk 42
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,052
The 24" bars are enclosed , LF-WW48SMD-DI: High Power LED Light Fixture with Switch. They can be wired right into your 12 vdc system. I used the old lite supply leads. You cannot remove the switch. It is some how part of the power conditioning.

The rigid LED strips I put into the flourecent housing were these RLBN-NW30X3SMDNatural WhiteRLBN-NW30X3SMDNatural White5600K20.1 lm342 lm/ft603 lm52019.95RLBN-x30SMD. They can be cut in three inch sections to fit the housings. These wire right into the 12 vdc without any power supplies. Dont forget to by the connectors you need for these.

Dave
fryedaze is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-21-2012, 09:26 PM   #27
Guru
 
JohnP's Avatar
 
City: Toms River
Country: USA
Vessel Name: D U E T T E
Vessel Model: 1996 36' Island Gypsy
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,109
I am planning to install a couple of 120vac flouresent lights to compliment the existing 12vdc dome lights. The added light will be for routine maintenance, etc. This is usually done dockside or with the generator running. The 12vdc lighting will be for quick checks and things. At least I can't run the batteries down if I leave on the flouesents -because they are ac only.

JohnP
JohnP is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-21-2012, 10:26 PM   #28
Senior Member
 
Fighterpilot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 373
Dave, I appreciate the detailed information about the lights you used. I have copied that info and printed it out.

John-good idea on the 120Volt lites. I have been running a clamp on light with extension cord for the dock work. Not a good solution--get tangled up in the cord and have to move the light to different locations to do work. Might as well do as you did and put in some fixed lights.

Thanks again for the information.
Fighterpilot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2012, 12:05 AM   #29
Guru
 
hollywood8118's Avatar
 
City: Port Townsend Washington
Country: USA
Vessel Name: " OTTER "
Vessel Model: Ocean Alexander Europa 40
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,482
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnP View Post
I am planning to install a couple of 120vac flouresent lights to compliment the existing 12vdc dome lights. The added light will be for routine maintenance, etc. This is usually done dockside or with the generator running. The 12vdc lighting will be for quick checks and things. At least I can't run the batteries down if I leave on the flouesents -because they are ac only.

JohnP
my boat has a 4' 2-tube fluorescent 120v ac fixture that is enclosed for a wet environment, the fixture is completly enclosed in a rugged plastic enclosure... a key element is to have the bulbs enclosed so you don't accidently whack the bulbs and have a engine room full of the magic dust and glass from a shattered bulb. If space is a issue there are sealed fixtures designed for closets that take little space and are perfect for a engine room... I had both on Volunteer and they worked really well. Both are available at H. Depot...

Lithonia Lighting - The best value in lighting

HOLLYWOOD
hollywood8118 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2012, 07:58 PM   #30
Senior Member
 
Duvie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 177
We have used LEDs extensively where I work and I plan to use them on my 34 Californian at some point in the engine room. The LF-WW48SMD-DI at Superbrights looks to be a pretty good fit especially for the price. It draws .65 amps which makes it about an 8 watt fixture. The goal I have for my engine room is four fixtures at about 10 watts each in an LED product. I currently have four 60 watt 12 volt A60 household style lamps in the engine room that draw about 5 amps each. My goal would be to maintain the lighting level in the space. The only thing I didn't like in the LF-WW48SMD-DI is that the lamp color jumped from 2900k to I believe 6500k. The 2900 is a bit yellow while the 6500 is a bit white/blue. Optimum color for me would be between 3500k and 4500k. Don't get anything less than 1/2 amp draw at 12 volts if your looking to light an area. Just as a note florescent lamps put out nearly the same amount of light per watt but you cant beat the LED for size and durability. As mentioned previously heat is the killer of LEDs but I am guessing with the run hours of the lighting in the engine room that this will not be a problem.
Duvie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2012, 08:13 PM   #31
JAT
Guru
 
JAT's Avatar
 
Country: US
Vessel Name: Just a Tinch
Vessel Model: Gulfstar 44 MC
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 595
These are the ones I have used in my engine room, galley, and up in the V-berth. They come in different colors..and are rather bright.

WFLB96 series Waterproof Flexible Light Bar

WFLB96 series Waterproof Flexible Light Bar

They produce a lot of light...and I like a lot of light...I don't want "mood lighting" in the engine room, galley, or V-berth....I like it bright and white!
JAT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-23-2012, 08:14 AM   #32
Guru
 
City: North Charleston, SC
Country: USA
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,390
Quote:
Originally Posted by Duvie View Post
As mentioned previously heat is the killer of LEDs .
The real killer of LEDs is too much current and too much current is caused by too much voltage, even for a split second.

The cheap way to control current through an LED is with a series resistor, but there are problems with that approach. For one thing, it is inefficient because power is dissipated in the resistor.

The real problem is, that on a boat, wired to the boat's 12 volt (nominal) electrical system, there can be variations in the actual voltage from under 12 volts to possibly 14 volts or more and short duration spikes of much more than that. If a dropping resistor is calculated for 14 volts, the light output will be less at 12 volts. If it is calculated for 12 volts, the LEDs will have a much shorter life.

A better way is with a voltage regulating circuit, but the best way is with a constant current "driver" circuit. This assures the optimum current flowing through the LEDs regardless of variations in the incoming voltage.

When you see in the specifications that a particular product is suitable 9 -30 volts or similar, you are buying a product with a constant current driver. These are the ones you want.

One more "tidbit" - These driver circuits will sometimes produce RF interferance that may or may not be a problem. I installed two LED replacement lamps in my berth area and was watching TV. I turned one of the lamps on and the TV signal froze. Turned the lamp off and the signal came back. Only on channel seven.

I had to install RF filters in the lamps to get my channel 7 TV back. It didn't bother the other channels.
rwidman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-23-2012, 03:51 PM   #33
Guru
 
City: Hotel, CA
Country: Fried
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 8,328
Great thread! I've learned more about the downside of LED's here than ever before. For a layman like me with little practical knowledge of electrical, LED's where supposed to be as good an innovation as sliced bread.

Seems a bit more complex once you look beyond the power usage ratings on the packaging. Thanks for the free education.
CPseudonym is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-23-2012, 03:59 PM   #34
Guru
 
City: North Charleston, SC
Country: USA
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,390
Quote:
Originally Posted by CPseudonym View Post
Great thread! I've learned more about the downside of LED's here than ever before. For a layman like me with little practical knowledge of electrical, LED's where supposed to be as good an innovation as sliced bread.

Seems a bit more complex once you look beyond the power usage ratings on the packaging. Thanks for the free education.
They are as good as sliced bread and you will be seeing more and more of them as the US Government continues to tell its citizens what they may and may not purchase with their hard earned money.

What's important is, LEDs are LEDs. When we buy a lighting fixture containing LEDs for our boats, it's important to buy one that is designed correctly for boat lighting and not "cheap out" on something manufactured to a low price.
rwidman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-2012, 08:25 PM   #35
chc
Senior Member
 
chc's Avatar
 
City: Essex, MD
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Scooter
Vessel Model: 1984 Californian 34 LRC
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 310
FP; The issue I have when doing my underway ER checks thru the companionway door is that the light throws a shadow as you pass under it; now you can't see squat. My solution was to place some of the large 9v handheld lights in the recess by the seastrainer(s). Other option that works well is to come in from the lazarette end; better light, more air, less hot parts to tangle with. Aft light reveals a bit more w/o shadow. Fwd light then shows well at front of engine. 34LRC ER is not well set up for fixed lighting while underway.
chc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-2012, 10:43 PM   #36
Senior Member
 
City: Gig Harbor
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Selah
Vessel Model: Ocean Alexander 40
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 191
2 seasons ago I installed 2 G-4 "warm" LED conversion units in the dome light above our dinette, which had a "1 on, off, both on" configuration. The two together were fine for dinner and reading afterwards, and I liked the .2A draw instead of 3.5A.
I just received some conversion units from Dr. LED but have yet to put them in the fixtures, I'll comment on them after I do.
av8r is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2012, 10:12 AM   #37
Guru
 
refugio's Avatar
 
City: Meydenbauer Bay Yacht Club
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Refugio
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 1,141
Quote:
Originally Posted by rwidman View Post
When you see in the specifications that a particular product is suitable 9 -30 volts or similar, you are buying a product with a constant current driver. These are the ones you want.
And I'm guessing that's why most (all?) of the lights I see on superbrightleds.com have the disclaimer "NOT SUITABLE FOR AUTOMOBILE APPLICATIONS".
refugio is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2012, 01:57 PM   #38
Guru
 
City: North Charleston, SC
Country: USA
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,390
Quote:
Originally Posted by refugio View Post
And I'm guessing that's why most (all?) of the lights I see on superbrightleds.com have the disclaimer "NOT SUITABLE FOR AUTOMOBILE APPLICATIONS".
1142 PCB series LED Lamps Specifications

1142 BA15D PCBs

1142 base with 36 LEDs, 100 degree beam. 1142 base with 9 High Power SMD LEDs, 120 degree beam, 8~30VDC (8~14VAC)

The driver is in the base.
rwidman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2012, 02:15 PM   #39
Guru
 
refugio's Avatar
 
City: Meydenbauer Bay Yacht Club
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Refugio
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 1,141
Quote:
Originally Posted by rwidman View Post
...LED Lamps...The driver is in the base.
Yes, but - in this thread - folks seem to be using the "light bars" (which do have the disclaimer) rather than the auto / marine / RV "lamps".
refugio is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-28-2012, 08:07 PM   #40
JAT
Guru
 
JAT's Avatar
 
Country: US
Vessel Name: Just a Tinch
Vessel Model: Gulfstar 44 MC
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 595
Quote:
Originally Posted by refugio View Post
Yes, but - in this thread - folks seem to be using the "light bars" (which do have the disclaimer) rather than the auto / marine / RV "lamps".
Some maybe...but I use the LED light strings that are fully encapsulated and not at all a risk for fire, and have a range of DCV to work with. I have had my LED's on and set my charger to equalize....and have yet to have an LED failure, period. Don't overcomplicate the issue....OK?
__________________

JAT is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off





All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:01 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2006 - 2012