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Old 11-10-2017, 02:32 PM   #21
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Dont change anything if you are going to hire a corrosion specialist. He needs to find a problem otherwise he wont know whats going on.
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Old 11-10-2017, 05:58 PM   #22
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If the corrosion expert uses the term "electrolysis" find another one.
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Old 11-10-2017, 06:04 PM   #23
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Stray current induced corrosion.
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Old 11-10-2017, 06:05 PM   #24
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Or maybe even. Unexpected metal electoerosion.
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Old 11-10-2017, 06:40 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by diver dave View Post
Is this a AC/DC or straight AC ammeter?

edit: try the meter with a simple device on the counter, such as a toaster or iron. PUt the jaw around the 2 wire cable coming out of the appliance.

ps: the split core jaw mathmatically SUMS all the wire currents inside the jaw. If opposite and equal currents don't result in a zero meter reading, the ammeter is defective.

Yeah, I have to try a few things to figure out what's going on. It certainly could be a bad meter. I feel pretty confident that I do not have current in the ground. In fact, with the boat OUT of the water and the shore power ground wire disconnected, I still get the same thing. Under those conditions there is NO possible path to ground. Plus, with or without the shorepower ground wire isolated, the shore power works no problem when plugged into ground fault outlets. The boat is pretty much put away for the winter, so It'll probably be spring before I dig back into this. Its an AC/DC ammeter.

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Old 11-10-2017, 07:28 PM   #26
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Id almost prefer a lowly ac only ammeter for this job. No zero set drift and no sensitivity to dc.
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Old 11-10-2017, 09:27 PM   #27
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Id almost prefer a lowly ac only ammeter for this job. No zero set drift and no sensitivity to dc.
I have a few different models at work and much higher quality. I'll be sure to try one of the recently calibrated known good.

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