Decent horn for boat

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Exactly my point. I think your horns were north of $4K installed. That's a steep bill for most boaters...especially the 30-footer crowd. Also, your horn is neither size/sound appropriate nor safe for a 30 ft boat. 100 ft? Maybe.
My 47 Eastbay has them, so no, it doesn't have to be a 100' option. They're spendy and you don't really 'need' horns all that often, but when you do it's nice to have LOUD ONES.
 
I'm not looking for the loudest horn available, but want a sufficiently loud horn to signal if needed. I also am not looking for the highest end model, the boat may be sold in a few years, but also want to install something not totally worthless for the next proud owner!


Our OEM dual-trumpet 12V horn was an AFI model, When it crapped out after 8 years or so, I replaced it with a similar Ongaro model, same footprint, mounting, etc. Going on 9 years now...

These aren't air compressor models, but have worked well enough...

-Chris
 
Ted,
What kind of regulator did you get for the scuba tank to operate that air horn?
Bud
 
OK, enuff of the testosterone thumping; the OP cannot use that high-dollar, ultra loud stuff, large format stuff. He's more in my range of boat; so let me expound on what I did recently, and cheaply. My wimpy electric trumpet horn was mounted on the cabin top just in front of the windshield. By searching eBay for a "loud air horn," I came up with a 17-dollar Chinese made trumpet air horn with a compressor about half the size of my fist. All I did was remove the old horn and connect the compressor to the 12-volt leads coming out of the cabin top. Then I made a small box to keep the weather off of it and ran the short length of hose to the new trumpet screwed to the cabin top where the old one had been. It might be possible to mount the compressor under your deck, but then you are stuck with having to cut a hole for the air hose. My first trumpet went about six months or so before the crappy chrome flaked off the crappy pot metal, but for a few bucks I replaced it with the same model which I clear coated before installation. It is too loud to mount on the pictured arch.
 
Ted,
What kind of regulator did you get for the scuba tank to operate that air horn?
Bud
A scuba regulator 1st stage that is a diaphragm design works perfectly as they are usually adjustable between 20 and 160 PSI. Mine happens to be an Oceanic, but any should work. You will need to add an overpressure pop off valve and an adapter from 3/8" straight thread oring seal to 1/4" FPT or MPT. If you head down this path, I can point you toward the adapters if you can't find them.

Ted
 
Between the tank, 1st stage regulator, some fittings and a pressure gauge, your probably looking at $500 new. I had everything used lying around, rebuilt everything, and had next to nothing in the setup. CO2 would certainly be a cheaper initial and continuing cost. See warning about CO2 at the end of the post.




CO2 is a liquid that vaporizes in the tank as it's used, just like propane. Filling the same tank to around 2,000 psi with air, the tank with CO2 will have approximately 3 times as much gas at ambient pressure as the air tank.



I like my scuba tank system although it is more costly for initial purchase. The big risk with CO2 is that if you develop a leak, depending where the leak is, it could easily kill you! My tank is in my pilothouse. With the pilothouse windows and doors closed, if the tank emptied, approximately 50 cuft. of CO2 would be in the pilothouse, enough to easily kill me. With the tank in the engine room, if it leaked down over a few days, there might be enough to kill you when you went down to do the prestart engine room check.

Food for thought when dealing with CO2. :eek:

Ted

I believe you are confusing C02 Carbon Dioxide present in the air you breath to CO Carbon Monoxide a product of burning fossil fuels, deadly. The fiz (carbonation) in soda is Co2.
 
I believe you are confusing C02 Carbon Dioxide present in the air you breath to CO Carbon Monoxide a product of burning fossil fuels, deadly. The fiz (carbonation) in soda is Co2.

CO and CO² are both toxic in concentration.

The point is if you're going to use anything other than plain old breathable air you want to take precaution when there are enclosed spaces involved.
 
I believe you are confusing C02 Carbon Dioxide present in the air you breath to CO Carbon Monoxide a product of burning fossil fuels, deadly. The fiz (carbonation) in soda is Co2.
No, not at all. CO2 in air is about 400 PPM (Parts Per Million) (0.04%). OSHA safe limit is 30,000 PPM (3%) for limited exposure. CO2 is fatal to humans after 30 minutes at 10,000 PPM (10%). As the percentage rises, time till incapacitation and then death drops dramatically.

Ted
 
Both can kill, but in different ways. End result is still the same. CO and CO2 are frequently confused.



CO can kill in low concentrations if you're exposed long enough. It causes your body's hemoglobin to bind to the CO in favor of O2. It's cumulative, so exposure to low concentrations can result in buildup of CO in the bloodstream; your brain can't function without oxygen, and the CO replaces the oxygen in the bloodstream, so lights out. It's insidious, victims are often unaware of anything wrong since poisoning is so incremental.



CO2 (or any other inert gas) causes suffocation by displacing the oxygen in a space, there's simply not enough oxygen available to breathe, and the brain shuts down. Victims can be unaware since CO2 is odorless, colorless, tasteless, and doesn't present any irritation.



Chances of a compressed CO2 cylinder causing an issue are pretty small, but there is a risk that doesn't exist with a compressor. I'm not sure I'd be anxious to create a situation where a CO2 cylinder is located in a confined space with the potential to displace the oxygen in that space. No risk with compressed air.
 
From the CDC (Center for Disease Control and prevention [USA government]):



Basis for original (SCP) IDLH: The chosen IDLH is based on the statements by ACGIH [1971] that a 30-minute exposure at 50,000 ppm produces signs of intoxication, and a few minutes of exposure at 70,000 ppm and 100,000 ppm produces unconsciousness [Flury and Zernik 1931]. AIHA [1971] reported that 100,000 ppm is the atmospheric concentration immediately dangerous to life. In addition, Hunter [1975] noted that exposure to 100,000 ppm for only a few minutes can cause loss of consciousness.


100,000 PPM is 10%.

Ted
 
I was up on the flybridge while under way and was adjusting the Bimini. In doing so I leaned against the horn control on the flybridge. It had me frantically looking around for a moment as I was right off the Bangor Sub Base. Also startled everyone in the boat. Dual air horns and very loud.

While we may like to sound like a big ship, for most of our boats, the requirements are that the fundamental frequency is between 180-2100 hz. If your vessel is less than 20m in length your lower frequency can’t be lower than 180 hz. High end marine air horn manufacturers will list the frequencies of their horns.
 
... Also, your horn is neither size/sound appropriate nor safe for a 30 ft boat. 100 ft? Maybe.

The Colregs specify the minimum range of a horn. My horn,s range is one mile, twice the minimum of 0.5 miles for vessels under 20 meters. One-mile range is suitable for boats under 75 meters, meeting minimum requirements. Don't see how having increased range reduces safety.
 
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Don't see how having increased range reduces safety.
Stopping distance? Bigger boats take longer to stop/change course. A horn with longer range could give notice sooner. A horn like that on a smaller boat might give the wrong impression as to the emerging situation? That'd be my guess.
 
The Colregs specify the minimum range of a horn. My horn,s range is one mile, twice the minimum of 0.5 miles for vessels under 20 meters. One-mile range is suitable for boats under 75 meters, meeting minimum requirements. Don't see how having increased range reduces safety.

The safety risk comes to passengers or crew who are near the horn during the sounding. Appropriately sized horns do not present the same risk to occupants.

When your horn is heard through the fog, most boaters would expect a MUCH LARGER boat to emerge through the cloak of the fog.

Who among us wants to spend $4000 on a boat horn? Not me. Besides, it's just not a practical suggestion to the OP, IMO.
 
Who among us wants to spend $4000 on a boat horn? Not me. Besides, it's just not a practical suggestion to the OP, IMO.
I never want to assume how much or little someone else wants to spend. I go with advising what I've known to work.

Unrelated to this, in the past I've found out later, after using the wrong items, that something more expensive would have provided superior results. Had I known I'd have spent... but nobody told me. Sometimes it's worth spending more, sometimes not. But better to make an educated purchase, either way.

That said, I agree a simpler solution is probably worth considering for this particular case.
 
... When your horn is heard through the fog, most boaters would expect a MUCH LARGER boat to emerge through the cloak of the fog. ...

The horn's tone is a better indication of a boat's size, not its loudness. So, is it a mistake purchasing a steel boat, giving a larger radar target? Would help to other boaters become aware of one's presence be a danger?
 
Horns are fun!
A couple of my friends have gone the high cost, high output route with stunning results. A couple of toots in an anchorage usually gets a bunch of responses, then the big horns come out to play.

Harbour Freight has what the OP needs. For $20 you can get a pair of little, red plastic trumpets on a small compressor. I have those in my dinghy, hidden inside the console. When they are going to be blown, I warn my passengers, as they are very loud and can be startling if you are not ready.
I bought a second set, thinking I could attach the compressor to a pair of truck horns that I took from my motorhome when I upgraded. Didn't work well, as the compressor wasn't big enough. It will blast a single truck horn, just not duals.
I also bought a HF triple set, to get the bigger compressor, but I haven't managed to get to a fitting store to get that one properly hooked up, so at this moment my boat and dinghy are horned the same.
OP should not put any loud horns on the arch, unless all below the arch are wearing hearing protection.
 
The horn's tone is a better indication of a boat's size, not its loudness. So, is it a mistake purchasing a steel boat, giving a larger radar target? Would help to other boaters become aware of one's presence be a danger?



Exactly. Loud is great. The frequency should be within regulations though.
 

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