sdowney717
Guru
- Joined
- Jan 26, 2016
- Messages
- 2,264
- Location
- United States
- Vessel Name
- Old Glory
- Vessel Make
- 1970 Egg Harbor 37 extended salon model
You have to detect the water flow, not power to the pump.
I have had times where pump runs but gets an airlock.
For my older unit, that means compressor his side pressure builds to 400 psi, then shuts down compressor, and when pressure falls back it turns on, so with no water flow causes endless cycling of compressor to overly high head pressures. This design instantly kills the compressor power, so wont be stressing it. If water flow resumes, power to compressor resumes.
I used an analog washer water level switch with 3 levels, PART# WH12X10065
Today a hot day, I got it all hooked up and working perfectly.
If water flow quits, the compressor turns off.
I have the water level switch set to high water level.
I have a little 12vdc computer fan for the water pump, I thought it might keep it cooler.
I used a wall-wart to power the fan.
Small red wire is the water pump on wire. It connects to the water level switch, wall-wart and the water pump.
Small blue wire is for the heat pump reversing valve.
Large purple wire is compressor hot
Large white wire is compressor neutral.
The water pump is actually a dishwasher drain pump.
The entire circuit is gfci-afci breaker protected.
For these setups, there is no ground wire back on the compressor, the copper tubing is the ground wire, on the evaporator there is a ground wire, as that is where the on -off and control switches are located. It is electrically grounded through the copper tubing. I used to wonder about that till I realized it.
I am not totally done with this. I want to put a plastic cup over the water switch just in case it leaks. Was very nice that contactor had extra connections for joining wires.
And nice that if you pry the metal edge, you can make the cover removeable on the electrical box.
The main compressor wires, its just a yellow ring terminal secured in with the big set screw.
I have had times where pump runs but gets an airlock.
For my older unit, that means compressor his side pressure builds to 400 psi, then shuts down compressor, and when pressure falls back it turns on, so with no water flow causes endless cycling of compressor to overly high head pressures. This design instantly kills the compressor power, so wont be stressing it. If water flow resumes, power to compressor resumes.
I used an analog washer water level switch with 3 levels, PART# WH12X10065
Today a hot day, I got it all hooked up and working perfectly.
If water flow quits, the compressor turns off.
I have the water level switch set to high water level.
I have a little 12vdc computer fan for the water pump, I thought it might keep it cooler.
I used a wall-wart to power the fan.
Small red wire is the water pump on wire. It connects to the water level switch, wall-wart and the water pump.
Small blue wire is for the heat pump reversing valve.
Large purple wire is compressor hot
Large white wire is compressor neutral.
The water pump is actually a dishwasher drain pump.
The entire circuit is gfci-afci breaker protected.
For these setups, there is no ground wire back on the compressor, the copper tubing is the ground wire, on the evaporator there is a ground wire, as that is where the on -off and control switches are located. It is electrically grounded through the copper tubing. I used to wonder about that till I realized it.
I am not totally done with this. I want to put a plastic cup over the water switch just in case it leaks. Was very nice that contactor had extra connections for joining wires.
And nice that if you pry the metal edge, you can make the cover removeable on the electrical box.
The main compressor wires, its just a yellow ring terminal secured in with the big set screw.