conduit question

[swampu]

Asking for some advice. I am going to run my ac wires in conduit placed in the walls so I can spray foam for insulation. I am thinking that I should only run one wire per conduit (non metallic). Has anyone done this and should I get tinned wire or can I just run stranded? Is there a handy reference guide, is there a cliff-notes version of the abyc? Thanks

 

[ksanders]

Asking for some advice. I am going to run my ac wires in conduit placed in the walls so I can spray foam for insulation. I am thinking that I should only run one wire per conduit (non metallic). Has anyone done this and should I get tinned wire or can I just run stranded? Is there a handy reference guide, is there a cliff-notes version of the abyc? Thanks

Although I would use tinned wire, boats were built using standard copper wire for decades.

You can run several wires per conduit. There's a NEC fill ratio for for conduits, but I do not remember the exact number of conductors

 

[FF]

I would spring the bucks for Anchor brand wire , its tinned and is larger than grade requirements.

You can run more than one service line in a conduit , but I think it is bad practice to mix voltages.

120 , 240AC should not be in a conduit with 12V or 24V DC. Use a proper marine (not auto) crimper and terminal ends.

 

[rwidman]

I agree on using stranded, tinned, marine grade wire and cable. Running just one wire in a conduit would be silly. You can find the capacity (number and size of wires or cable for the conduit you are using) on the Internet. Since you're going to insulate this, if there's any question, use fewer, rather than more wires per conduit because the insulation will retain heat in the conduits.

Consider an extra run of empty conduit for future use. It's cheap if you install it before you spray in the insulation, not if you need it later.

As FF posted, do not mix high and low voltage circuits in the same conduit (or junction box).

I don't know if you've considered it, but type "ENT" flexible non metalic conduit is a lot easier to work with in some cases than rigid conduit and fittings, especially on a project like a boat.

You appear to be new at electrical work so you might want to run your plans by a marine electrician or have him/her inspect your work before you insulate and cover everything up.

This is a good place to buy your cable and connectors:

http://genuinedealz.com/

 

[CPseudonym]

Great advice above. The only thing I can offer is spend extra time carefully consider future maintenance access. Place all junction boxes and equipment connections in easily accessed locations.

I am a fan of spare conduit runs for future use.

 

[RickB]

And make sure you run pull cords through the active and spare conduits so you can pull cable in the future rather than try to push it ...

 

[refugio]

I would spring the bucks for Anchor brand wire , its tinned and is larger than grade requirements.

As Arild pointed out on the old Trawler list, most (all?) Ancor rebrands other products.

I've had good results from bestboatwire.com for years at a fraction of the cost.

 

[rwidman]

...... I've had good results from bestboatwire.com for years at a fraction of the cost.

They are no longer in business. See my link above for their replacement.

 

[refugio]

They are no longer in business. See my link above for their replacement.

I'd figured that was just their internet fulfillment portal, but looking at my ereceipts it looks like they pulled the switch back in 2010.

 

[Dixie Life]

The biggest mistake most shade tree electricians make in running conduit is putting to many bends in each run. NEVER have more than a total of 360 deg. of bend per run. If you do, you won't be able to pull wire through it. The less bends the better.