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Old 06-17-2014, 11:39 PM   #1
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can't remove power cord. suggestions?

I twisted turned pulled and pushed and it still won't come out. I had it out a few weeks ago. Do I really have to remove the whole assembly?
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Old 06-18-2014, 12:16 AM   #2
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You have to unscrew the round black plastic piece first.
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Old 06-18-2014, 12:35 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bligh View Post
I twisted turned pulled and pushed and it still won't come out. I had it out a few weeks ago. Do I really have to remove the whole assembly?
I would be really pissed too if I had four power cords and none of them would come apart. . .

HOLLYWOOD
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Old 06-18-2014, 12:53 AM   #4
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What have you got there, a 50A cord into a 30A adapter? Have you over-juiced your system and welded the connector to the plug? Hot cord? Hot plug?

(I cleaned up your 4 duplicate images...no charge)
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Old 06-18-2014, 05:58 AM   #5
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Sounds like you've welded the plug to the socket. Either by melting the plastic or metal parts together. Or both. Time to remove the socket. Then you more than likely will have to replace both parts.
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Old 06-18-2014, 07:55 AM   #6
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What is that adapter? Is the power inlet a 30 amp or 50 amp inlet, what is the cord rated for 30 or 50 amp service. A quick picture of your main AC breaker panel might help us better understand the posted picture.
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Old 06-18-2014, 08:14 AM   #7
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It looks like someone had replaced the female plug on the power cord and he slid back the cover. My votes with Capt.Bill.

Bligh: Can you see the back of the male receptacle for inspection? Till you get the plug and receptacle apart, to inspect them, I'd keep the power off.
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Old 06-18-2014, 08:19 AM   #8
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It looks like someone had replaced the female plug on the power cord and he slid back the cover. My votes with Capt.Bill.

Bligh: Can you see the back of the male receptacle for inspection? Till you get the plug and receptacle apart, to inspect them, I'd keep the power off.
I'm with both you and Capt. Bill however I'm trying to understand what I'm seeing and what the inlet is rated for?
I'd bet the assembly is heat welded tight as well not a good situation at all.
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Old 06-18-2014, 09:07 AM   #9
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It looks like a regular 30 amp cord and inlet to me. He has pulled the rubber cover out of the locking ring trying to get it out.

As Oliver pointed out, first you need to unscrew the black plastic ring by turning it counter clockwise. Then twist the hard yellow plastic part counter clockwise a little bit and pull.
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Old 06-18-2014, 10:29 AM   #10
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Time to upgrade to a "Smart Plug" Features of SmartPlug Shore Power Products . Your insurer will give you a $125.00 rebate when you do, so the cost to upgrade is minor. Then you can say you planned to all along.
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Old 06-18-2014, 10:31 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N4712 View Post
You have to unscrew the round black plastic piece first.
That's it. I'm pretty sure I remember screwing something in. I'll try that.
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Old 06-18-2014, 10:35 AM   #12
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What is that adapter? Is the power inlet a 30 amp or 50 amp inlet, what is the cord rated for 30 or 50 amp service. A quick picture of your main AC breaker panel might help us better understand the posted picture.
Bill
Thsi is all new to me. But, what I do know is the PO said he put a 30 amp adapter on one end and a 50 amp adapter on the other end. Why, I dont know.
I'm pretty sure its not 'welded' as it does move around in the plug. I think , like N4 said, Its the retaining cap that screws onto the outlet holding it in there.
Gotta remember to wear my glasses.
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Old 06-18-2014, 10:37 AM   #13
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What have you got there, a 50A cord into a 30A adapter? Have you over-juiced your system and welded the connector to the plug? Hot cord? Hot plug?

(I cleaned up your 4 duplicate images...no charge)
LOL. I was using the android app. Every time I loaded a picture, I got an error that said the app crashed. I tried it a few times with the same result. I gave up thinking i would have to load the image on the PC. Then I saw all the images. I knew someone would get a kick out of it.
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Old 06-18-2014, 10:43 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bligh View Post
Thsi is all new to me. But, what I do know is the PO said he put a 30 amp adapter on one end and a 50 amp adapter on the other end. Why, I dont know.
I'm pretty sure its not 'welded' as it does move around in the plug. I think , like N4 said, Its the retaining cap that screws onto the outlet holding it in there.
Gotta remember to wear my glasses.
Not sure if in the PNW that 50 A is more common then 30 A but if it is that probaly why so you don't have to carry another adapter around to convert a 50 A to a 30 A.
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Old 06-18-2014, 10:58 AM   #15
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Can't be sure why that PO has that plug setup...but one of the reasons I like upgrading to a 50 amp 125/250 cord is the connectors...they feel way more secure (metal to metal sleeve) with locking "bumps" instead of 30 amp that hang by the prongs. If there's no ring or a cross-threaded locking ring ...a good wind can wiggle them so they arc and burn.

Plus for those of us with older Air Conditioning without soft starts (which for me to spend the time and money on at this point is foolish) and 2 units hooked to that second 30 amp panel...that 30 amp connector is destined to a short life. Even if I take care of my end...not every marina has a good PM program for where you plug in...or even appropriate wiring.

My friend's Catalina sailboat welded one power cord 2 years in a row. Everything would seem great...then just randomly weld. All factory installed equipment...

I couldn't get to where he lived so he finally had another knowledgeable boater with electrical skills change a few things....but then again he's been in out of the country for 2 years so I'm waiting till he returns and puts the boat back in the water for a summer season..

Smart Plugs may be the answer for 30A circuits (never really see the issue with 50A)...but I'm going 50A and not looking back.
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Old 06-18-2014, 11:55 AM   #16
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That's one thing Mainship got correct in my opinion on the 40 Sedan Bridge the AC units are on separate 30 amp legs. I did install the soft start on the Salon unit because it's 30 amp main #1 had some heavier loading than the master stateroom 30 amp main on circuit #2. Also the salon unit ran more often because it has more windows and a large double glass door than the Master staterooms unit. I had all of my windows 95% tinted on the Mainship and installed insulated curtains. I will be doing the same on the Gulfstar.
I never could figure out why anyone or a builder would put (2) 16,000BTU AC heat pumps on the same 30 amp leg when both are required to keep the boat cool or warm depending on the season. I'm doing the same as I reconfigure and install my 2nd 30 amp leg on the Gulfstar and upgrade the primary AC panel and wiring.
However for AC and heat I'm going to install (1) 1 ton high SEER split heat pump unit and (1) 3/4 ton unit instead of marine AC units.
Instead of installing a 50 amp shore side inlet the ideal situation would be to upgrade to the to the new style cord sets and inlets made by SmartPlug. There is a great engineering article about the standard Marinco or Hubbel style 30 or 50 amp inlets compared to the surface area provided by the new 30 amp SmartPlug system.
I'll be installing 30 amp SmartPlug inlets and the boat's side power connector during my upgrade.
The price is higher for these inlets and cords but not as high as the 125/50A 50' cable or cordsets.
Bill
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Old 06-18-2014, 12:13 PM   #17
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Some boaters also want the total wattage that only a 50 Amp 125/250 power cord can supply aside from the better connector, others are happy with 2 -30's with or without smart plugs.

There was a decent thread on the value of smart plugs not too long ago...interesting inputs.
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Old 06-18-2014, 12:16 PM   #18
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Some boaters also want the total wattage that only a 50 Amp 125/250 power cord can supply aside from the better connector, others are happy with 2 -30's with or without smart plugs.

There was a decent thread on the value of smart plugs not too long ago...interesting inputs.
I agree, it seems in the North East dual 30 amp pedestals are found at most marina I have been to.
The SmartPlugs are a great concept.
Bill
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Old 06-18-2014, 12:43 PM   #19
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50 amp (only) seems to be becoming more popular at transient slips. Some places loan adapters, some force you to rent them on top of their already outrageous electric fee. But the majority still have 30s someplace nearby.

Thus my concession in the 12/24V thread that ultimately I may work towards DC majority/independence...just to adopt the "just say no" mentality when the marina guy says "what type electric"
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Old 06-18-2014, 01:44 PM   #20
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Did Smart Plug ever get UL and ABYC approval? Last I heard they had both refused to approve the design??

There were a couple of Smart Plug failures resulting in melt downs a couple of months ago that brought this all to a head. As I recall there was a problem with the plastic cable binding device in the boat end of the plug. And from that it was determined that the plug design was not UL approved.
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