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Old 06-24-2009, 07:26 AM   #21
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RE: Cable Crimper

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FF wrote:
...*so the only choice is to take loose every wire , touch solder the usually crimped auto terminal ends and reinstall with star washers , and hope for the best.
That's about the only way to ensure good connections. The star washers are good protection against corrosion causing a high resistance connection that is incredibly difficult to trace, and a well* made solder joint provides a good electrical path to the connector which a poor crimp just doesn't do and the resulting high resistance or intermittent connection is very hard to troubleshoot.

FYI, ABYC has a table of "tensile test values" for*crimp connections of various*wire sizes. For example an 18 gauge wire*crimped to a connector must withstand a 10 pound pull for one minute. The*test pull*goes up to 225 pounds for a 4/0 cable.

That 4/0 cable can be soldered without crimping to an appropriate*battery connector as long as the length of the solder joint is about 3/4 of an inch (.69 is the*minimum length) So you can see it doesn't take much solder to do the job right.
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Old 06-25-2009, 04:19 AM   #22
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RE: Cable Crimper

"touch solder the usually crimped auto terminal ends"

Folks that need to do this procedure will need a tool not usually in a boaters kit.

A heavy roofing iron (actually its made of copper) of about 3# and a propane torch.

A soldering iron or gun is way too wimpy , and by time it has heated the terminal end , it may also have melted and hardened the wire outside the terminal end.

A good hot roofing iron allows one to touch the terminal end for a short enough time that only the wire IN the terminal is soldered , and you don't loose the flexibility paid for in multistrand wiring.

A 3x heat shrink over the wire and terminal end is a good idea at keeping moisture out of the wires.

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Old 06-29-2009, 11:59 AM   #23
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RE: Cable Crimper

I couldn't wait any longer for my back-ordered crimpers from Harbor Freight so I found a set at a local rental center.* Little doubt the crimps are not ABYC compliant, but I couldn't pull them apart and the connections sure seem to work.

I finally got the Xantrex XC3012 charger installed and fired up.* No, I haven't checked the specific gravity of all the individual cells, nor run a meter on each of the 4 batteries, but I will say this - the charger came to life, recognized the 2 banks of 2, 8D batteries and, according to the display panel, started humping some serious amps into them at 14.1V - 14.4V!* The next morning both banks were in the "float" mode at something like 13.3V.

I'm going to let the electrons soak in for a week or so and then check out the "equalization" mode.

Barely touched the start key and the Lehman roared to life!* Even ran the 'fridge off the inverter for a while, just 'cause I could.

Time will tell, but so far I could not be happier with this product that seems to do exactly what was advertised.* Microporcessors are a wonderful thing!
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Old 06-29-2009, 12:34 PM   #24
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RE: Cable Crimper

Not sure how old your batteries are but*when the 8d's go bad you might consider the golf cart batteries. I traded my two 8d's in for 8 golf cart batteries.
I have hauled quite a few 8d's and never want to see another one, they are HEAVY!
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Old 06-29-2009, 12:51 PM   #25
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RE: Cable Crimper

Quote:
troy994719 wrote:Not sure how old your batteries are but*when the 8d's go bad you might consider the golf cart batteries. I traded my two 8d's in for 8 golf cart batteries.

I have hauled quite a few 8d's and never want to see another one, they are HEAVY!
Absolutely right on there, Cap'n!* I don't take them home in the winter and I paid the $ to get a real charger in order to breathe some more life into them.* When they do die I'm not sure how I'm going to wrestle them out of there.

Golf cart batts are my #1 candidate for replacements.
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Old 06-29-2009, 01:38 PM   #26
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RE: Cable Crimper

Depending on the size if the battery box you might consider Trioan L-16 ,which are tall but Deep Cycle .

The other size that might work is series 31.

These make great cold weather starts and are cheap as most trucks use them in pairs.

The L-16 will work just fine as starts and a pair (12V) have enough robustness to start most boat diesels (maybe not if you have a 12V71) in anything over freezing , after 60% of the charge is used .

It may be crude , bur weight and amps are directly related, usually the heavier the better in wet cell.

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Old 07-03-2009, 05:33 PM   #27
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RE: Cable Crimper

Crimp if you want, this is still the easiest way to bed cable in solder. I think it is important to match the terminal to the correct wire size. IMHO I believe 2/0 cable handles most diesel engines for cables up to 6-8 feet. Be sure to use cable cutters to cut a clean end that you can stick into the terminal easily without having strands peeling off.Steve
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Old 07-04-2009, 04:56 AM   #28
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RE: Cable Crimper

. Be sure to use cable cutters to cut a clean end that you can stick into the terminal easily without having strands peeling off.

Good advise ,

BUT if you don't have cable cutters a tight heavy wrap if electrical tape , prefferably with the insulation still on, and a 32 tooth metal hack saw blade , a workman like job can be done.
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Old 08-03-2009, 12:49 PM   #29
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RE: Cable Crimper

One additional thing you might want to include in your process is to use some 5200 under the shrink.* NO Moisture - EVER!

I'm getting ready to redo batteries and wire on my boat.* I'm sure it'll be a long process.* I figure I'll go ahead and buy the Anchor crimp tool.* Then once I'm done with it I'm sure I'd be able to sell it here or on one of the many other cruising sites.

Also, while I don't have the technical document close at hand, there is new information coming out against the new (no lead) solder.* I forget the term but it's not good - reminded me of the use of aluminum wire oxidizing and eventually causing arcing.* Like I said, I don't have the document but you might want to do some investigation on it if you are using it.
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Old 08-04-2009, 04:37 AM   #30
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RE: Cable Crimper

. "NO Moisture - EVER!"

Sorry but 5200 CURES with moisture and intact may be "water proof" but not moisture (vapor) proof.

To get the best ,either the shrink tubing with glue inside ,

or find a Phone Ca guy and get a few fistfuls of their tiny goo capsules.

Phone wire is single strand of thin wire , and with it being used for internet they are really picky about corrosion.

The caps are not monitored , so most guys will easily part with a bunch.

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Old 11-08-2009, 09:48 PM   #31
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RE: Cable Crimper

I know I'm far too late to help with a comment about the hammer crimper but for anyone else maybe.

I have one of those units.* It must be used on a solid base of steel plate or rock.* My plate is about 10 #, a piece of 3/4" x 10 or 12" square.*** I've also set it on steelwork around the marina or on a big rock.* It lives in the boat tool box. It cost me about $75.00* 20+ years ago.* * I've used it enough over the years it has paid for itself.

If you set it on* the dock boards or* the boat sole it will bounce and result in a lousy crimp.** Even then I use a 2-3 # hammer or small sledge.* It needs to be hit several times.*you will hear a change in sound, from dull to not dull, when the wire has been crimped properly - best I can describe it.* Usually you can get a second crimp on the lug barrel.***

Then cover it with heat shrink.* I sometimes spray the gap between insulation and lug with some WD-40 or similar and apply NO_ALOX before putting on the glued heat shrink.

I also have one of the H.D Burndy crimpers and prefer it but of course it's expensive for just a few crimps and, in my case , too large to warrant keeping it aboard.* These tools are about $400.00 (20+ yrs ago)*-**so unless using it for the job, or a large rewire*or just because you have to have it, *are* usually not worth it.
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