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Old 03-25-2018, 07:47 AM   #21
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Like many have said, I would just twist the two / three / etc. wires together and stick them into " one " end of a crimp connector.
Opinion: I would never use the body of a butt connector as a part of a conducting path... I'd prefer a wire - wire joint ...... FB
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Old 03-25-2018, 07:47 AM   #22
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I don't understand why manufactures use wire that small. It's dumb. Serves no purpose.
I just installed a new Icom M330 VHF, and out the back shot out a number of GPS/ext speaker leads of about #22 and not even long enough to reach a mounted junction box. so, you are left with the solution in Tonic or Sabers post.
Jim Cooper shows a very good method if you can land these in a Jbox and don't need to change the connections later.
One trouble with any butt type connector, is that the wire insulation is so thin, you run the risk of crimping on the insulation, since the internal 'stop' doesn't.
I put electrical tape in the same category as pocket change. I'm dedicating my life to eliminating both.
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Old 03-25-2018, 08:34 AM   #23
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I would use a lineman splice and cover it with adhesive line heat shrink.

NASA Wire Splicing Standards

You can feel where the solder stops in the wire and it gets flexible again. Cut the heat shrink a 1/4" longer than that transition on each side of the splice to provide some strain relief.
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Old 03-25-2018, 08:39 AM   #24
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We all know out boats are subjected to way more abuse than spacecraft, plus I am not sure the ABYC approves of the lineman splice as a mechanical fastening.
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Old 03-25-2018, 10:22 AM   #25
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How can you tell whether what you are doing is actually the best?

I have had this boat since 1994. In that time I have had to redo a number of butt splices (BS). Many of the BS in the anchor locker have been redone several times. several of the BS in the ER, especially on the EMON, have been redone. So far, few, if any on the GPS, Radar, Sounder, except when obsolete equipment is being updated.

I conclude from that, the butt splices in protected areas, where the salt air is less prevalent, where extremes of heat are less prevalent, where they con't get stepped on, are not stretched, are all completely adequate. I use mostly wire that requires the blue size butt connector. Where I am dealing with smaller wire, the red connector, or for very small wire, doubled over in the red connector.
Size doesn't matter, according to failures in my boat, only exposure to harsh conditions matters.
I have one terminal block in my fine wire, GPS, Radar, sounder, computer interface. I have had 0 connector failures there. All of the connections are in red crimps.
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Old 03-25-2018, 10:35 AM   #26
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Bus bars, especially as there is no common colouring standard and many times I've had to buckshee a wire connection from a Standard Horizon to a Si-tex, for example.
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Old 03-25-2018, 10:55 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by what_barnacles View Post
I would use a lineman splice and cover it with adhesive line heat shrink.

NASA Wire Splicing Standards

You can feel where the solder stops in the wire and it gets flexible again. Cut the heat shrink a 1/4" longer than that transition on each side of the splice to provide some strain relief.
Quote:
Originally Posted by psneeld View Post
We all know out boats are subjected to way more abuse than spacecraft, plus I am not sure the ABYC approves of the lineman splice as a mechanical fastening.
I knew rocket science would come into this.

Who care what ABYC approves. They only recommend......
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Old 03-25-2018, 11:19 AM   #28
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I have used the Euro style terminal block, have double or triple bent over the wire and used a red or blue butt splice, and I have used telephone jelly beans. Then I discovered Wago's Lever Nuts and never looked back. Simple to use. Wide range of AWG acceptance. Limited to 20A. In a protected area they can be left unprotected. In an area where they will be exposed to splash, put them in a wt junction box.

https://amzn.to/2G3xrQ8
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Old 03-25-2018, 11:19 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by Alaskan Sea-Duction View Post
I knew rocket science would come into this.



Who care what ABYC approves. They only recommend......

They do, but their recommendations are well though out, and generally best practices.
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Old 03-25-2018, 11:22 AM   #30
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Alaskan Sea-Duction

Not to be preachey BUT:
Quote:
Who care what ABYC approves. They only recommend......
As a "Guru" with 3553 posts, you should care and if you don't, your insurance company and the surveyor who performs an insurance survey or is brought in to perform a survey after an electrical issue has led to an insurance claim will definitely care.
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Old 03-25-2018, 11:36 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by twistedtree View Post
They do, but their recommendations are well though out, and generally best practices.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CharlieJ View Post
Alaskan Sea-Duction

Not to be preachey BUT:


As a "Guru" with 3553 posts, you should care and if you don't, your insurance company and the surveyor who performs an insurance survey or is brought in to perform a survey after an electrical issue has led to an insurance claim will definitely care.
ABYC is not the law of the land, nor can they set any laws. Yet surveyors and insurance companies act like they do.

The "normal" citizen doesn't even have access to these so-called recommendations unless you become a "member."

Yes I am anti-ABYC. And yes that is for another thread.
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Old 03-25-2018, 11:47 AM   #32
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OK, so I believe in a bunch of people who think a 1988 Trawler running the intracoastal waterway needs higher standards than a multimillion spacecraft with little chance of a repair guy showing up?

Also, my 7 knot trawler should meet the same vibration requirements as an 80 knot offshore racing powerboat?

Actually the ABYC isnt that dumb...they do have a caveat that there are times that it is reasonable to deviate from their best practices. So they are pretty smart after all...just wish it was more clear to the conehead surveyors and insurance companies that wear blinders.

Also all the powerboaters who keep posting on TF with blinders on.....
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Old 03-25-2018, 12:26 PM   #33
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Not impressed with rockets. They use far too much RTV 🤯
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Old 03-25-2018, 01:40 PM   #34
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Wooden boats use quite a bit of similar stuff to float, and don't badmouth wooden boats around some members....

Bur seriously, this many people really care how NMEA wires are connected unless they dont work or fall apart every year?
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Old 03-25-2018, 02:01 PM   #35
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I've gone to solder shrink seal connectors. They don't crimp, the wires are inserted, heat is applied to the shrink tubing first to hold the wires in place. Then the heat is applied to the center where the included solder is.
I always soldered my connections, so for me it's a real time saver. Either a small torch or heat gun does the job.
In bulk on ebay or Amazon.
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Old 03-25-2018, 02:42 PM   #36
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I agree with this guy:
Terminating Small Wires Photo Gallery by Compass Marine How To at pbase.com

I liked using a buss bar for this type of application as it makes changing stuff out so much easier. Spray some Corrosion X or coating of your choice when done.
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Old 03-25-2018, 03:05 PM   #37
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OK; I'll put one more nail in this NMEA coffin.

Sometimes, you will be faced with multiple receivers and one transmitter. Like a VHF and a fishfinder want the same Lat/Lon signal from the GPS receiver. Or, maybe even a third, the autopilot.
NMEA doesn't guarantee more than a single receiver, although sometimes you can get away with more. In these marginal, more complex arrangements, you will not be pleased with these signal pairs that are all hiding under plastic and heat shrink. Especially if you are uncertain about the polarity (or baud rate) of each pair.

You really will prefer a terminal strip, with jumpers, that allow you to scope the signal for integrity. I have a battery operated Flukemeter that allows one to see how much the original NMEA0183 signal drops with each receiver connected. Fighting thru tape, heatshrink, jelly beans, liquid tape, mid-air connections, etc will only increase the bill.
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Old 03-25-2018, 04:00 PM   #38
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Eventually I’m going to have to repair this . It’s my radar cord. I’m not very good at this sorta stuff. The PO cut the cord and spliced it back because the plug would not fit through the radar mount tube. The radar mount area was leaking and needed repair so I cut the splice again:banghead thinking I could repair . I’ve repaired the mount area and reinstalled the radar, now I need take care of the splice. I’ve been dodging this for a couple of years. Should I repair the splice or reconnect the wires at the plug? I have plenty of cord length.
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Old 03-25-2018, 04:12 PM   #39
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looks like the plug is soldered and then heat shrunk to the individual wires? I'd rather work at the plug. splices are bad form, especially with an overall shield.
I would even try to get a new plug.
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Old 03-25-2018, 08:52 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lepke View Post
I've gone to solder shrink seal connectors. They don't crimp, the wires are inserted, heat is applied to the shrink tubing first to hold the wires in place. Then the heat is applied to the center where the included solder is.
I always soldered my connections, so for me it's a real time saver. Either a small torch or heat gun does the job.
In bulk on ebay or Amazon.
Hey...I like the looks of that option. Better than mine, for sure. I’ve been cutting uninsulated butt connectors in half with a wire cutter which pinches the end shut. I heat the half butt connector, drip solder into it and push the wires together into the open end of the connector fillded with solder. I cover the connector and overlap the wires with shrink tubing. No failures yet, but your idea will save me two steps.
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