Butt connecting very fine wires: N-0183 wires from AIS

[Alaskan Sea-Duction]

They do, but their recommendations are well though out, and generally best practices.

Alaskan Sea-Duction

Not to be preachey BUT:


As a "Guru" with 3553 posts, you should care and if you don't, your insurance company and the surveyor who performs an insurance survey or is brought in to perform a survey after an electrical issue has led to an insurance claim will definitely care.

ABYC is not the law of the land, nor can they set any laws. Yet surveyors and insurance companies act like they do.

The "normal" citizen doesn't even have access to these so-called recommendations unless you become a "member."

Yes I am anti-ABYC. And yes that is for another thread.

 

[psneeld]

OK, so I believe in a bunch of people who think a 1988 Trawler running the intracoastal waterway needs higher standards than a multimillion spacecraft with little chance of a repair guy showing up?

Also, my 7 knot trawler should meet the same vibration requirements as an 80 knot offshore racing powerboat?

Actually the ABYC isnt that dumb...they do have a caveat that there are times that it is reasonable to deviate from their best practices. So they are pretty smart after all...just wish it was more clear to the conehead surveyors and insurance companies that wear blinders.

Also all the powerboaters who keep posting on TF with blinders on.....

 

[diver dave]

Not impressed with rockets. They use far too much RTV ?

 

[psneeld]

Wooden boats use quite a bit of similar stuff to float, and don't badmouth wooden boats around some members....

Bur seriously, this many people really care how NMEA wires are connected unless they dont work or fall apart every year?

 

[Lepke]

I've gone to solder shrink seal connectors. They don't crimp, the wires are inserted, heat is applied to the shrink tubing first to hold the wires in place. Then the heat is applied to the center where the included solder is.
I always soldered my connections, so for me it's a real time saver. Either a small torch or heat gun does the job.
In bulk on ebay or Amazon.

 

[caltexflanc]

I agree with this guy:
Terminating Small Wires Photo Gallery by Compass Marine How To at pbase.com

I liked using a buss bar for this type of application as it makes changing stuff out so much easier. Spray some Corrosion X or coating of your choice when done.

 

[diver dave]

OK; I'll put one more nail in this NMEA coffin.

Sometimes, you will be faced with multiple receivers and one transmitter. Like a VHF and a fishfinder want the same Lat/Lon signal from the GPS receiver. Or, maybe even a third, the autopilot.
NMEA doesn't guarantee more than a single receiver, although sometimes you can get away with more. In these marginal, more complex arrangements, you will not be pleased with these signal pairs that are all hiding under plastic and heat shrink. Especially if you are uncertain about the polarity (or baud rate) of each pair.

You really will prefer a terminal strip, with jumpers, that allow you to scope the signal for integrity. I have a battery operated Flukemeter that allows one to see how much the original NMEA0183 signal drops with each receiver connected. Fighting thru tape, heatshrink, jelly beans, liquid tape, mid-air connections, etc will only increase the bill.

 

[Pack Mule]

Eventually I’m going to have to repair this . It’s my radar cord. I’m not very good at this sorta stuff. The PO cut the cord and spliced it back because the plug would not fit through the radar mount tube. The radar mount area was leaking and needed repair so I cut the splice again:banghead thinking I could repair . I’ve repaired the mount area and reinstalled the radar, now I need take care of the splice. I’ve been dodging this for a couple of years. Should I repair the splice or reconnect the wires at the plug? I have plenty of cord length.

 

[diver dave]

looks like the plug is soldered and then heat shrunk to the individual wires? I'd rather work at the plug. splices are bad form, especially with an overall shield.
I would even try to get a new plug.

 

[healhustler]

I've gone to solder shrink seal connectors. They don't crimp, the wires are inserted, heat is applied to the shrink tubing first to hold the wires in place. Then the heat is applied to the center where the included solder is.
I always soldered my connections, so for me it's a real time saver. Either a small torch or heat gun does the job.
In bulk on ebay or Amazon.

Hey...I like the looks of that option. Better than mine, for sure. I’ve been cutting uninsulated butt connectors in half with a wire cutter which pinches the end shut. I heat the half butt connector, drip solder into it and push the wires together into the open end of the connector fillded with solder. I cover the connector and overlap the wires with shrink tubing. No failures yet, but your idea will save me two steps.

 

[ssobol]

They do make butt splices for 22-24 and even smaller wires. You used to be able to get the 22-24 splices at Radio Shack (RIP). Now you have to search the internet.

I get small wire splices from this place:

https://www.sherco-auto.com/

I crimp the small splices with small Vise-grips. Works great (IMO).

Now with LED lighting, the current demands on a lot of wiring is a lot less and smaller wires are becoming more common. In some cases the wire is sized not for the current, but for the mechanical strength of the wire.

I could wire some of the lights on my boat using 30ga wire. But it probably wouldn't last very long without breaking. 20ga wire is way overkill for the current, but I don't have to worry about the wire breaking because I threw something against it.

 

[psneeld]

thoughts from a marine engineer and maker of world class engine room equipment.....


"Post 15 describes the technique I use to terminate DB9 cables in my controllers. The ferrules are crimped though, and I usually put a touch of solder in the open end of the ferrule in order to assure retention of the wire since the 26AWG is not a great candidate for a successful crimp even when using professional crimping tools like my pneumatic ferrule crimper.

For inline splices, I do a loose version of the Western Union splice, solder and heat shrink. The most important part of the job is to make sure a strain relief is provided so there is zero movement of the wire at the ferrule or splice.

Like you wrote, the mass is so small that vibration is not much of an issue but the connection has to be protected against pulling or large movements.

I have not had a failure of a solder joint or ferrule in hundreds of connections in my controllers over the past 5 years use in engine rooms."

 

[twistedtree]

thoughts from a marine engineer and maker of world class engine room equipment.....





"Post 15 describes the technique I use to terminate DB9 cables in my controllers. The ferrules are crimped though, and I usually put a touch of solder in the open end of the ferrule in order to assure retention of the wire since the 26AWG is not a great candidate for a successful crimp even when using professional crimping tools like my pneumatic ferrule crimper.



For inline splices, I do a loose version of the Western Union splice, solder and heat shrink. The most important part of the job is to make sure a strain relief is provided so there is zero movement of the wire at the ferrule or splice.



Like you wrote, the mass is so small that vibration is not much of an issue but the connection has to be protected against pulling or large movements.



I have not had a failure of a solder joint or ferrule in hundreds of connections in my controllers over the past 5 years use in engine rooms."

If RickB is going to post, maybe he can post himself?

 

[psneeld]

can't.... Banned camp...

But he, like me, genuinely likes the boating pooulation to hear the truth, the best explanation, another opinion or alternative solution to all questions or problems.

And he is big on trying to help understand the system so posters dont go off on wild goose chases thst some posters start with rather than identify the real problem.

Then I get a kick out of seeing guys complain about mechs just swapping parts when it is suggested sometimes right here!

Yeah, wish he was back too...although I like the full mat education he shares with me... but he is a walking treasure trove of marine info that this place could use...

 

[RT Firefly]

X100...

 

[Dave_E]

Doubling over or even tripling the wire works well for me using the pink/red 18-22 gauge butt connectors.

David

This is precisely what we do in the aviation industry. CMA (circular mil area) is what we're talking about. Each of the standard butt splices are made to accommodate a particular CMA range. Doubling or tripling the wire diameter (folding it over on itself) then installing the splice is perfectly acceptable. Then a good shrink over that is also a good idea.

Dave

 

[Alaskan Sea-Duction]

I've gone to solder shrink seal connectors. They don't crimp, the wires are inserted, heat is applied to the shrink tubing first to hold the wires in place. Then the heat is applied to the center where the included solder is.
I always soldered my connections, so for me it's a real time saver. Either a small torch or heat gun does the job.
In bulk on ebay or Amazon.

Hey...I like the looks of that option. Better than mine, for sure. I’ve been cutting uninsulated butt connectors in half with a wire cutter which pinches the end shut. I heat the half butt connector, drip solder into it and push the wires together into the open end of the connector fillded with solder. I cover the connector and overlap the wires with shrink tubing. No failures yet, but your idea will save me two steps.

I am with you Larry. I like these. Nice and neat and pretty.... These are real nice. eBay and/or Amazon?