Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 10-14-2015, 07:42 AM   #1
Guru
 
Forkliftt's Avatar
 
City: Diberville Mississippi
Vessel Name: KnotDoneYet
Vessel Model: 1983 42' Present Sundeck
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,450
Bonding System 101

Greetings. On CarDude's recent post on his AC, bonding the unit was mentioned. My boat appears to be running "hot"- meaning the valves on the fuel tanks have recently gotten a bluish tint to them. During a bottom job in February all the zincs were changed. This included the block zinc on the transom, rudder zincs and egg zincs on the shafts. I also run "sweeps" on the shafts inside. I have a diver every two months that cleans the hull and replaces zincs as needed- though none have been replaced to date. I'll get with him to see if what's under is consuming as needed. My questions...

*What is the best held practice for replacing the bonding wiring? Do I want to create a "daisy chain" from component to component? Is the shortest run possible my goal? The wiring I see is strung pretty tight. Possibly just to lower costs. I would prefer to add "curleys" to my wiring where beneficial.
*What size/ type wire is recommended? What terminals (eyelets) do you recommend? Best crimping method? Do you suggest an anti corrosion spray?
*No debate here needed- but should I bother with bonding the couple of unused thru hulls I now have? Fuel tanks (black iron), water tanks (SS) are obviously needed. How about the AC units? What other components??

Again- no debates needed- just strongly held opinions. I'm a big boy and can probably make informed decisions on my own. Thank You.



1983 Present 42 Sundeck
Twin Lehman 135's
✌️
__________________
Steve Point Cadet/ Biloxi, Mississippi USA
*Present 42 twin 135 Lehmans
Forkliftt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2015, 07:52 AM   #2
Guru
 
Capt.Bill11's Avatar
 
City: Sarasota/Ft. Lauderdale
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 5,438
You either bond everything or nothing.

Usually you use #8 tinned wire. Use good quality (Anchor) crimp on ring terminals that have heat shrink covers. Then paint/seal the connection point as best you can with heavy dialectic grease or liquid electrical tape, etc.

You can daisy chain where is easiest to do and home run else where.
Capt.Bill11 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2015, 09:06 AM   #3
Valued Technical Contributor
 
DavidM's Avatar
 
City: Litchfield, Ct
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 6,786
I agree 100% with CaptainBill.

David
DavidM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2015, 09:23 AM   #4
Guru
 
City: gulf coast
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 3,440
Why Bill said but you can measure what your current system is doing. You also don't say what the condition of the zincs were prior to change.
bayview is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2015, 11:59 AM   #5
Guru
 
Forkliftt's Avatar
 
City: Diberville Mississippi
Vessel Name: KnotDoneYet
Vessel Model: 1983 42' Present Sundeck
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,450
Prior the zincs had normal wear. After the yard installed the block zinc I had removed it and cleaned the contact areas a bit more with a wire brush. The existing copper I see looks dark- prefer a revamp now and check it off the "list". Preferred source for wire and terminals anyone???


1983 Present 42 Sundeck
Twin Lehman 135's
✌️
__________________
Steve Point Cadet/ Biloxi, Mississippi USA
*Present 42 twin 135 Lehmans
Forkliftt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2015, 12:23 PM   #6
Guru
 
City: Solomons, MD
Vessel Name: Branwen
Vessel Model: Hatteras 48 LRC
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 645
Quote:
Originally Posted by Capt.Bill11 View Post
You either bond everything or nothing.
What determines whether one chooses the all or nothing path?
GregBrannon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2015, 01:16 PM   #7
Guru
 
Capt.Bill11's Avatar
 
City: Sarasota/Ft. Lauderdale
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 5,438
Quote:
Originally Posted by GregBrannon View Post
What determines whether one chooses the all or nothing path?
Two schools of thought. Bond everything or leave all underwater metal fittings un-bonded from each other.

As I recall Caulder's book discusses the how's and whys.
Capt.Bill11 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2015, 02:04 PM   #8
Guru
 
Brooksie's Avatar
 
City: Cape Cod, MA
Vessel Name: Island Seeker
Vessel Model: Willard 36 Sedan
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,306
I am of the "don't bond school" and have never has a problem with any of my boats in 50 years on the water. Boats however were all moored and had no AC systems.
My practice is 1) why create cells by stringing wires between metal objects which may be dissimilar when by themselves they would be fine. 2) why connect battery ground to bonding, and by extension the bilge water, so it can be ready to react with a positive leak. 3) use a Drivesaver to isolate the engine from the shaft. 4) zinc dissimilar metals like SS shafts & bronze props, struts, rudders. 5) never use a pump switch that puts wires into the bilge water.
Brooksie is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Trawler Port Captains
Port Captains are TF volunteers who can serve as local guides or assist with local arrangements and information. Search below to locate Port Captains near your destination. To learn more about this program read here: TF Port Captain Program





All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:17 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2006 - 2012