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Old 07-02-2014, 11:17 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Capt.Bill11 View Post
It wasn't intended as a lecture. It was just based on your posts it sounded like you were unsure of what you were doing and how you should do it. So I was merely suggesting you do some research before you come to any incorrect conclusions as to what the problem was.

Glad it turned out to be something simple.
Sorry if I over-reacted. It's been a stressful couple of days. I appreciate your intent. I've installed bilge pumps and switches, but this was our first outing with this boat. The PO turned out to be a royal jerk who refused a hand-over meeting or orientation session after the purchase, so I've been learning how this particular boat is set up on the fly.
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Old 07-02-2014, 11:19 AM   #22
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Should a bilge pump even be on a switched source? Fuse protected for sure but not switched.
All three of the factory-installed pumps and the two owner-installed pumps are on switched sources, with line fuses. But it's a good question.
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Old 07-02-2014, 11:27 AM   #23
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I was with Capt.Bill11 on that a float switch is actually a break (or switch) on the positive (or negative if you wish and wire it that way) side of a bilge pump. One wire would be hot and the other not if on the pos side until the float is activated...then 12+V. on both leg in relation to a neg bus side.

Primary bilge pumps usually have 2 feeds, one auto and one manual. Secondary or high water can be either or again both...just preference
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Old 07-02-2014, 12:06 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Bob Cofer View Post
Should a bilge pump even be on a switched source? Fuse protected for sure but not switched.
Actually switched, no unless it's a spare crash style pump with no float switch. However it's something my surveyor and I caught during my Gulfstar inspection. Somehow for the last 35 years this got past everyone it was the factory wiring for the bilge pumps and it was wrong. It's been corrected it's also something the insurance company wanted corrected immediately. I installed a 2 bilge pup unit that counts daily, weekly and monthly cycles of both pumps. It is now powered directly off the fused but non switched DC mains. It protects both pumps and wire via re-settable individual push button breakers and allows over riding the float switches if needed. The unit's made by AC DC Electronics Inc.
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Old 07-02-2014, 12:37 PM   #25
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Sorry if I over-reacted. It's been a stressful couple of days. I appreciate your intent.
No problem. Good luck with the new boat.
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Old 07-02-2014, 12:49 PM   #26
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There is really no "right" or "one" way to wire bilge pumps...many different setups are possible depending on what and where you have them and what part of the "plan" they are to keep water out of the boat.
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Old 07-02-2014, 07:14 PM   #27
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One of my old boats had both auto pumps fed from the breaker panel. The PO told me to "NEVER turn these off!". I thought that was an obvious and odd remark. On the delivery run, the stbd engine blew the exhaust riser in a horrible following sea. When we pulled the engine for replacement, the flywheel had a rust waterline half way up. That's when I realized why he said that!
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