Battery issues

[kevman]

Hi everyone, wet today in Ontario. I have a 30ft boat with twin 4.3s, 2 house batteries and 1 starter battery all AGM .I was running on #1 a single house battery that was also starting which may of caused it to fail. The #2 has a house battery connected with the start battery. So if I run off of #2 from now on should I replace my house battery that was on #1 with a dual house start ?

 

[High Wire]

Hi everyone, wet today in Ontario. I have a 30ft boat with twin 4.3s, 2 house batteries and 1 starter battery all AGM .I was running on #1 a single house battery that was also starting which may of caused it to fail. The #2 has a house battery connected with the start battery. So if I run off of #2 from now on should I replace my house battery that was on #1 with a dual house start ?

My head hurts trying figure out this layout.
When you say #1 and #2, are you referring to engine number, battery number, or battery switch position number?

 

[kevman]

Battery switch position

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. k. I'm confused as to your set up as well. I would try to keep house and start batteries separate. I feel "dual purpose" lead/acid batteries are a poor compromise. I don't know if AGM's would handle both tasks as I know nothing about their applications.

 

[sdowney717]

What I have is a single start battery and all it does is start 2 engines, no other loads.

I have 2 other house batteries, and all they do is run all other electrical loads.

I have two 1,2,1+2 -off switches wired so that any of the 3 batteries can be turned on - off -combined with each other or even start the engines off house batteries..

It has worked very well for me, if I run down the house batteries, I can always start, then the engine generators charge them up. I also put a charge combining relay that joins house to start batteries when one of the engine runs automatically. Just a simple relay that energizes when ignition goes on with key on of the port motor.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KGID0X0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That way both engine gens recharge any of the depleted batteries. And I put it on a switch to turn the relay off-on also. I can watch the difference. If only one alternator is charging, I see like 50 amps flowing, but if both are charging, the gauges drop to 30 each, which lightens the load as it shares the charging from 2 alternators instead of overloading one alternator. . My amp gauges only register charging current flow, not discharging flow. It is interesting also to see when my generator turns on, the house amp gauge registers charging flow, but never on the start battery, which of course is never depleted..

I also installed digital volt meters for both banks, and it tells me the state of discharge. Then I can know when to turn off my inverter and turn on my gen, if I am anchored..

 

[High Wire]

Hi everyone, wet today in Ontario. I have a 30ft boat with twin 4.3s, 2 house batteries and 1 starter battery all AGM. I was running on #1 a single house battery that was also starting which may of caused it to fail. The #2 has a house battery connected with the start battery. So if I run off of #2 from now on should I replace my house battery that was on #1 with a dual house start ?

1- So there is only one battery switch (1-Both-2-Off) for 2 engines?
2- Are the 2 engines connected directly to any battery?
3- The #2 has a house battery connected with the start battery. Are these 2 different types of batteries connected together in parallel?

Generally, use starting type batteries only for starting and deep cycle batteries only for house loads. They should only be combined in the charging mode or emergency start. If you cannot split them up, then use Dual Purpose batteries for all as the best compromise.

 

[kevman]

So yea one battery switch and three batteries, a heavy lead off the starter battery is connected to the starter on the starboard haven't seen if it loops to the port. I could disconnect the starter battery from the switch and only switch from house battery to house battery but no backup, so I'm thinking if the two house batteries are connected together on any #1 selector and the house is connected #2 selector I'm covered. But if I add a 2nd selector switch I can switch between the house batteries aswell. Thoughts?

 

[kchace]

I personally think each engine should have its own dedicated start battery that is not used for anything else. House can then be whatever size and configuration that works for your usage patterns. That way, you can always start the engines and they don't need special batteries just start batteries of an appropriate size. Add a couple of ACRs and everybody can get charged when the engines are running. Pretty simple and it's effective.

Ken

 

[Flatswing]

suggest you buy Nigel Calder's " Boat Owner's Mechanical & Electrical Manual" available hard cover or e version. I t will comprehensively but easily answer your question and will come in handy so many times.

 

[windled]

Levman, what you have is a typical older 30’ish boat battery layout.

Ideally you should rewire so you have a single cranking battery dedicated to engine starting, and a separate house bank of two deep cycle batteries. The alternator can be connected to and charge the starting battery, then you can use one of these Xantrex Echo Chargers https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0016G8RT8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 to charge the house bank. This also allows you to use one 110v charger to charge the cranking battery which with the Echo charger when charging on shore power.

A small bit of work to rewire to this setup, but you will end up with a manageable, nice clean simple setup.

 

[CMS]

Levman, what you have is a typical older 30’ish boat battery layout.

Ideally you should rewire so you have a single cranking battery dedicated to engine starting, and a separate house bank of two deep cycle batteries. The alternator can be connected to and charge the starting battery, then you can use one of these Xantrex Echo Chargers https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0016G8RT8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 to charge the house bank. This also allows you to use one 110v charger to charge the cranking battery which with the Echo charger when charging on shore power.

A small bit of work to rewire to this setup, but you will end up with a manageable, nice clean simple setup.

The Echo Charger is designed to charge a start battery from the house bank not house from start. With an Echo Charger charge sources feed house first and the Echo takes care of the start bank. Also, an Echo Charger can be the wrong choice if an engine runs pre-heaters or has large loads when running as the 15A max output may not be able to keep up.



Unfortunately it is not really possible to help the OP until adequately until we have a clearer description of what is what and how it is wired.

 

[dhays]

Unfortunately it is not really possible to help the OP until adequately until we have a clearer description of what is what and how it is wired.

That was my thought. I certainly couldn’t follow the description. I’m simple minded enough that I need pictures.

 

[kevman]

I looked at what I have and that's exactly it, I already have a good updated charger so I'm going to reroute my cables as you have suggested, with the engines starting off the house battery is why I believe it failed, a bit pricey to replace being an AGM but with the cranking battery being designated for just that, I should be off to a good year. Thanks for your input , happy boating..[emoji4]