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Old 07-02-2017, 01:22 PM   #1
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Battery charger settings, and setting and ......

I just installed 8 new 115 Duracell (East Penn) golf cart batteries along with a Victron 150/70 MPPT controller. I don't know why my old Duracells failed after 5 season and I wondered if my Victron could have over charged them. I still don't know, maybe it was just accumulated age and abuse. But an interesting thing happened on the way to the Forum!

Yes indeed, interesting! I purchased the Victron USB adapter cable so I could see the charger settings along with adjusting them. Yes, I guess you can do the same with their meter kit, if so .....what a joke! Try it for yourselves and enjoy.

OK, back to the USB which worked just fine. This is where things get interesting.

Rolls insists their 12V flooded batteries be set with no exception:
bulk/absorption 15
float 13.5
equalization 15.6-15.9

Trojan requirements:
bulk/absorption 14.8
float 13.5
equalization 16.2

Victron:
bulk/absorption 14.4
float 13.7
equalization 15

I set mine to:
bulk/absorption 14.6
float 13.6
equalization---set to off.

I tried to split differences. But hey, lead acid battery technology is over 100 years old an no absolute standards? OK, the differences are small so why is Rolls so insistent and for that matter Trojan? There must be magic numbers for maximum battery life. Later when I have more time, I might check what other battery manufacturers (whats left of them) recommend.
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Old 07-02-2017, 01:41 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by foggysail View Post
Rolls insists their 12V flooded batteries be set with no exception:
bulk/absorption 15
float 13.5
equalization 15.6-15.9

Trojan requirements:
bulk/absorption 14.8
float 13.5
equalization 16.2

Victron:
bulk/absorption 14.4
float 13.7
equalization 15

I set mine to:
bulk/absorption 14.6
float 13.6
equalization---set to off.

Did you really mean Victron, for the third group?

What does Duracell/East Penn recommend?

I suspect better to follow the specific maker's recommendations, instead of taking an average (or some such) of lots of brands. Different strokes for different production lines...

-Chris
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Old 07-02-2017, 02:16 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by foggysail View Post
I don't know why my old Duracells failed after 5 season and I wondered if my Victron could have over charged them. I still don't know, maybe it was just accumulated age and abuse.
Five years isn't bad, remember many would not even grant these cheapies "true deep cycle" status, they are not designed to last nearly as long as many labelled Deka's, much less the better brands you mention

----
You should always follow the setpoints provided by the manufacturer: each line's is set by the designing engineers, and can vary from one line to the next within one company.

Why would you "average" them?

Call them at 888 - 844 - 7704 to get the current specs, from my notes:

Absorption Voltage = 14.4V - 14.7V
Absorption End Point = Current change over 1 hour period of less than 0.1A
Max Absorption Time = 12 Hours

Float Voltage = 13.8V - 14.1V
Float End Time = No Limit

Equalization = 15.0V to 15.3V*
Equalization End Point = Current change over 1 hour period of less than 0.1A
Max Equalization Time = 12 Hours

Temp Compensation = -.018V for every degree °C rise above 25C


This is for daily cycling, when unused I'd bring Float down to 13.3-7V


Quote:
Originally Posted by foggysail View Post
I purchased the Victron USB adapter cable so I could see the charger settings along with adjusting them. Yes, I guess you can do the same with their meter kit, if so .....what a joke! Try it for yourselves and enjoy.
Not sure what you're trying to say here.
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Old 07-02-2017, 02:45 PM   #4
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Not sure what you're trying to say here.


Well........"Try it for yourselves and enjoy."
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Old 07-02-2017, 06:10 PM   #5
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I'M BACK. Sure John, technically I should have reviewed East Penn's charging recommendations. I looked at the problem from the viewpoint that there are few things in a lead acid battery that manufacturers can or would even want to adjust other than the insulating material between the plates. That was why I posted the different conditions required by Rolls and Trojan. Even though there are differences, my choice should have been to stick with their recommendations
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Old 07-02-2017, 07:52 PM   #6
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I don`t the charging profile of my ancient Newmar, but my solar controllers are fully adjustable and display while doing it.
The important one is float. Too high and the batts are getting hit with charge they don`t need, topping up will increase significantly.
As I recall, FF gave me some good setting point tips for my LAs.
You might average several manufacturers settings if you can`t get settings from Duracell, but just ask them if nothing is published. Different makers different settings may reflect different manufacture standards.
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Old 07-03-2017, 05:50 AM   #7
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"There must be magic numbers for maximum battery life."

Battery life , charge profile will vary with batts service.

Sitting unused on solar for 6 months (as ours do) can use a much lower float voltage , 13,2 V seems to use little water .

Cruising where the batts will be discharged O'nite and recharging the next day or so the charge voltage should be higher in an attempt at getting to 100% or 105% of full to discourage sulfation.
This will require more often watering or Hydrocaps.
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Old 07-03-2017, 06:20 AM   #8
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Getting to 100% full is defined by continuing to push the proper Absorb voltage, until current Amps drops to mfg spec, say .01C.

A voltage higher than the spec'd range is not advised except when periodically following the Equalization protocol.

References to "105%" refers to counting AH, and replacing each cycle more than what was taken out.

But that has to do with inefficiency losses, and that number also varies by chemistry.
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