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Old 03-12-2014, 08:52 AM   #21
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So the xantrex tech tells me. Your inverter is not repairable, but I can sell you a reconditioned one........??????
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Old 03-12-2014, 11:38 AM   #22
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Funny, I got the same thing for an old plotter I had at Raymarine. To me, that's just a pitiful thing to do.
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Old 03-12-2014, 12:56 PM   #23
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Installed a Xantrex Prosine 3000 inverter/charger a couple of years ago. Can't speak to the tech support as I haven't had to use it but the product has worked flawlessly so far.
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Old 03-12-2014, 06:09 PM   #24
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Near as I can tell from a quick "market survey" -- looks like one can either get a multi-bank charger (e.g., 3-bank) or a single-bank inverter/charger, but not both in the same product.

That sound about right?

-Chris
You can rig ACRs, for instance to inverters and use them to charge another bank. Most inverter mfrs. offer them, plus folks like Blue Seas. The inverters in and of themselves are focused on charging "their" bank.
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Old 03-12-2014, 10:29 PM   #25
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I just had this 80amp newmar 3 stage charger installed. I've never had my 8d's so fully charged. This can charge up to 3 banks of batteries and I have two banks each for start batteries and I will have a 3rd for a house bank. 8d's are in series two per motor. Here is more information on the three stage. http://www.batterystuff.com/blog/3-s...-chargers.html
IMHO one of the best chargers sold if not the best.
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Old 03-13-2014, 08:11 AM   #26
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IMHO one of the best chargers sold if not the best.
Before someone educated me and set me straight on how to fix my Sentry charger (which has done a beautiful job for four years ever since maintaining both a start and more traditional house/start bank), I looked intensively into high end "smart" chargers and came to the same conclusion. Plus they are really nice people.
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Old 03-13-2014, 09:33 AM   #27
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Charles makes IMHO the best chargers on the market. Bulletproof.


As for Xantrex, I've been lucky. I've had their inverter chargers on every boat I've owned and never had a failure. I even had good luck with the prosine units on a couple of boats.

Right now I have a SW 3000 3KW /150 amp unit and it is heavy, old fashioned heavy, something like 75 pounds or so of heavy.

But, I'm different. If and when that unit goes out, I won't even try to get it fixed, at least not at first. I'll find someone with a replacement in stock and have it air freighted up. An inverter/charger is a mission critical piece of equipment and I cannot afford to have it down.

Then I'll fix the old one myself, if its possible and or buy a spare unit. When we start cruising full time, I will have a spare, either way.
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Old 03-13-2014, 10:00 AM   #28
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Charles makes IMHO the best chargers on the market. Bulletproof. As for Xantrex, I've been lucky. I've had their inverter chargers on every boat I've owned and never had a failure. I even had good luck with the prosine units on a couple of boats. Right now I have a SW 3000 3KW /150 amp unit and it is heavy, old fashioned heavy, something like 75 pounds or so of heavy. But, I'm different. If and when that unit goes out, I won't even try to get it fixed, at least not at first. I'll find someone with a replacement in stock and have it air freighted up. An inverter/charger is a mission critical piece of equipment and I cannot afford to have it down. Then I'll fix the old one myself, if its possible and or buy a spare unit. When we start cruising full time, I will have a spare, either way.
Great advice!!!
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Old 03-13-2014, 12:32 PM   #29
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Great advice!!!
This probably isnt the thread for this, but places like the Bahamas for example, are very much like places in Alaska logistics wise.

Getting a replacement part is both expensive and a logistics nightmare.

My goal is to have spares for pretty much every single point of failure.

On the inverter issue, many of us depend on our inverters for daily life on the boat. I thought about this, and figured out how much of my boats electrical system would go down if my inverter failed, and it was allot.

So, I'm installing a rotary transfer switch, similar to, and actually the same part as a shore power switch between my inverter and its loads. That way if my inverter goes down, I can just rotate the switch and be back in service on what ever source of AC I have available (generator or shore power).

The part was >$100 and installation might take me all of a couple hours.

As a FYI, since you have a Nordhavn... This issue was brought to my attention when reading about a Nordhavn that was making an atlantic crossing and had a failure of his inverter, which took out his stabilizers at a time he really needed them. The report I read was that it was rather unpleasant to bypass the inverter in a rough sea.
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Old 03-13-2014, 01:48 PM   #30
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This probably isnt the thread for this, but places like the Bahamas for example, are very much like places in Alaska logistics wise. Getting a replacement part is both expensive and a logistics nightmare. My goal is to have spares for pretty much every single point of failure. On the inverter issue, many of us depend on our inverters for daily life on the boat. I thought about this, and figured out how much of my boats electrical system would go down if my inverter failed, and it was allot. So, I'm installing a rotary transfer switch, similar to, and actually the same part as a shore power switch between my inverter and its loads. That way if my inverter goes down, I can just rotate the switch and be back in service on what ever source of AC I have available (generator or shore power). The part was >$100 and installation might take me all of a couple hours. As a FYI, since you have a Nordhavn... This issue was brought to my attention when reading about a Nordhavn that was making an atlantic crossing and had a failure of his inverter, which took out his stabilizers at a time he really needed them. The report I read was that it was rather unpleasant to bypass the inverter in a rough sea.
Yep, we have a little breaker box for bypassing the inverter. Also that was the Uno Mas you were talking about, a 40 Nordhavn, his inverter got wet from the rough seas spraying over the transom and making there way through the lazzerette hatch and shorting it out. Now the stabilizers are 12 or 24 volt.
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