another transducer thread......

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aksteve

Member
Joined
Mar 4, 2013
Messages
9
Location
USA
Vessel Name
Sanctuary
Vessel Make
35' Ponderosa Sundeck
Garmin 740s just lost any sight of the bottom.......I figure its time to put a good transducer on the boat. All the older stuff remains unused in the hull from years past(boat is a 1984). So my question is how to install a thru hull transducer on a hull that looks to be way more than 26* deadrise. I havn't thrown an inclinometer, on it yet, but it looks closer to 40* than 20*. I'm sure I'm not the first to face this problem. If the hull is steeper than the transducer will go, do you have to shim the outside and inside to screw it down tight? Will a shoot through the hull unit go that steep?
 
If not..as long as the cone of the beam plus the offset angle don't exceed the hull angle...it will still be accurate.


That is for traditional ducers...the new fangled CHIRP and other may not work the same so I may be off for them.
 
Does your present transducer employ a fairing block ? If so you may be able to use the same block if not use a new fairing block during installation.
 
Tools for Transducer install

Airmar who makes a wide variety of transducers has made this iPhone app available. It's free and includes tools to help in installing transducers.

iPhone app | Airmar Blog
 
boat has a through hull with wooden fairing block(inside) and possibly another old defunct on other side as well. Need to pull it in fall for bottom paint/zincs anyway. Will straighten this problem out then. Probably a 600w ducer with proper fairing. Thanks Doug for the app, will give it a try.
 
Yes, the fairing block should come as a pair one inside and one outside the bevelled angles on the match is important to maintain.
Good luck
 
aksteve...

I put a new Airmar Tducer on my Mainship this spring. I used their fairing block and it was fairly straight forward. I'll attach the installation instructions so you can get a look at how it fits. Also note recommended "sleeve" if the hull is cored.

Mine was only 20* +/- not sure what the upper limit would be - I'd suggest giving Airmar a call to see - I found them pretty helpful.

I cut mine on a band saw and recommend it as the best way to get a nice clean / straight cut. Angle verification easy w/ adjustable carpenter square or other angle finder and a level or plumb bob. Inside hull should get you close for discussion purposes prior to haul out.
 

Attachments

  • B45-DT-Ray Instln 17-008-05.pdf
    322.9 KB · Views: 37
Last edited:
I Have had great service with a p79 mounted in the hull. I did try a few spots with a Baggie full of water to find the best spot.
 
Can i shoot through a cored hull with an inside transducer?
 
Can i shoot through a cored hull with an inside transducer?

yes and no....

no....most coring will prevent proper working.

yes...but you have to remove the inner skin and coring...which sounds like a big deal but is done more than people think.

google AIRMAR transducers and their install info is very good.
 
Yes, the fairing block should come as a pair one inside and one outside the bevelled angles on the match is important to maintain.
Good luck

In most cases the block comes in one piece. You have to cut it in two to the angle you need to match the deadrise.
 
My hull angle is 35*, I hope the block is thick enough to make that steep an angle, that may be why they seem to have made a block out of wood for the old one. I see they make a transducer with an extra long shaft, but didnt notice an extra thick fairing block.
 

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