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Old 08-23-2015, 06:57 PM   #1
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another transducer thread......

Garmin 740s just lost any sight of the bottom.......I figure its time to put a good transducer on the boat. All the older stuff remains unused in the hull from years past(boat is a 1984). So my question is how to install a thru hull transducer on a hull that looks to be way more than 26* deadrise. I havn't thrown an inclinometer, on it yet, but it looks closer to 40* than 20*. I'm sure I'm not the first to face this problem. If the hull is steeper than the transducer will go, do you have to shim the outside and inside to screw it down tight? Will a shoot through the hull unit go that steep?
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Old 08-23-2015, 07:04 PM   #2
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If not..as long as the cone of the beam plus the offset angle don't exceed the hull angle...it will still be accurate.


That is for traditional ducers...the new fangled CHIRP and other may not work the same so I may be off for them.
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Old 08-23-2015, 07:12 PM   #3
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Does your present transducer employ a fairing block ? If so you may be able to use the same block if not use a new fairing block during installation.
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Old 08-23-2015, 08:17 PM   #4
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Tools for Transducer install

Airmar who makes a wide variety of transducers has made this iPhone app available. It's free and includes tools to help in installing transducers.

iPhone app | Airmar Blog
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Old 08-25-2015, 04:59 PM   #5
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boat has a through hull with wooden fairing block(inside) and possibly another old defunct on other side as well. Need to pull it in fall for bottom paint/zincs anyway. Will straighten this problem out then. Probably a 600w ducer with proper fairing. Thanks Doug for the app, will give it a try.
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Old 08-25-2015, 05:10 PM   #6
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Yes, the fairing block should come as a pair one inside and one outside the bevelled angles on the match is important to maintain.
Good luck
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Old 08-25-2015, 06:02 PM   #7
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aksteve...

I put a new Airmar Tducer on my Mainship this spring. I used their fairing block and it was fairly straight forward. I'll attach the installation instructions so you can get a look at how it fits. Also note recommended "sleeve" if the hull is cored.

Mine was only 20* +/- not sure what the upper limit would be - I'd suggest giving Airmar a call to see - I found them pretty helpful.

I cut mine on a band saw and recommend it as the best way to get a nice clean / straight cut. Angle verification easy w/ adjustable carpenter square or other angle finder and a level or plumb bob. Inside hull should get you close for discussion purposes prior to haul out.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf B45-DT-Ray Instln 17-008-05.pdf (322.9 KB, 20 views)
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Old 08-25-2015, 07:46 PM   #8
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I just installed an Airmar P79 inhull t-ducer and it was a breeze, reads to over 400" with dual frequency (50 and 200) 600 watts on Garmin network.

I have not gone deep enough to fully test it.


No holes needed and under $120 on Amazon


Used my phone and a free app. to find angle of inside hull for setup.


http://www.amazon.com/Garmin-AIRMAR-...p79+transducer
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Old 08-25-2015, 08:21 PM   #9
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I Have had great service with a p79 mounted in the hull. I did try a few spots with a Baggie full of water to find the best spot.
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Old 08-26-2015, 08:24 AM   #10
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Can i shoot through a cored hull with an inside transducer?
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Old 08-26-2015, 08:36 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meridian View Post
Can i shoot through a cored hull with an inside transducer?
yes and no....

no....most coring will prevent proper working.

yes...but you have to remove the inner skin and coring...which sounds like a big deal but is done more than people think.

google AIRMAR transducers and their install info is very good.
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Old 08-28-2015, 03:15 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCOTTEDAVIS View Post
I just installed an Airmar P79 inhull t-ducer and it was a breeze, reads to over 400" with dual frequency (50 and 200) 600 watts on Garmin network
no holes needed and under $120 on Amazon

http://www.amazon.com/Garmin-AIRMAR-...p79+transducer
I think I'll do this as a back-up to my Raymarine Bidata set-up...
My Garmin Echomap 70s is all set up for this tranducer..
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Old 08-28-2015, 04:03 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ulysses View Post
Yes, the fairing block should come as a pair one inside and one outside the bevelled angles on the match is important to maintain.
Good luck
In most cases the block comes in one piece. You have to cut it in two to the angle you need to match the deadrise.
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Old 08-31-2015, 03:05 PM   #14
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My hull angle is 35*, I hope the block is thick enough to make that steep an angle, that may be why they seem to have made a block out of wood for the old one. I see they make a transducer with an extra long shaft, but didnt notice an extra thick fairing block.
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