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Old 12-20-2013, 11:54 AM   #81
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Originally Posted by skidgear View Post
In my research I found some larger capacity Buck devices, and if I remember correctly came across some that "buck up" and "buck down.

The type of regulation under discussion is called "buck or boost."

If the voltage tends to go high, a bucking regulator keeps it at a the desired lower voltage. If the voltage tends go lower than desired, a boost regulator increases it to the correct voltage.
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Old 12-20-2013, 12:15 PM   #82
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Not sure what I have...but they are definitely not the warm ones...I went for bright white with high contast for my girlfriend and seeing....
As your girfriend ages, you may want to warm that light up a little.
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Old 12-20-2013, 02:45 PM   #83
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As your girfriend ages, you may want to warm that light up a little.
Or maybe just turn them off all together..............

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Old 12-20-2013, 05:21 PM   #84
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Hmmm....so I wonder whether the cool white is even necessary for engine rooms, or whether to use warm light and plenty of it there too? Apparently theres a middle of the road type as well, and I found it while searching the 5630's. They call it Natur White or Natural White. It seems to be in the middle of the whiteness range at 4000-5500K.

Guess the only way I'll know is to buy some.
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Old 12-20-2013, 06:51 PM   #85
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So i'll make this easy, and make some money along the way. You forward me the superbright part number, or part number of the expensive LED's. I'll sell you equivalent LED's for 1/2 the price, and provide a written 2 year warranty. If they fail I'll give you your money back or replace them, my choice. I'll go to ebay and buy some LED's and take the risk. I'll use the money I make to fun my boating adventures and tell everyone on TF what a great time I'm having.
I would really like to convert all my dc lighting to led. Could someone give me more info on the cheap option from eBay. Like witch ones you recommend. And maybe explain a little more on the brightness or dimmers. I don't like bright bright but soft light. But bright might be good at times like in the engine room or even in the salon at times.
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Old 12-20-2013, 07:41 PM   #86
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...And maybe explain a little more on the brightness or dimmers. I don't like bright bright but soft light. But bright might be good at times like in the engine room or even in the salon at times.
Here's a reference I found. We have converted almost all of the lights on Hobo and I'm just figuring out what the lumen vs watts means. The last change over was a bunch of G4 bubs. The 20 watt bulbs that we replaced equals about 190 lumens (2.5 watts) at about 76 lumens/watt.

http://www.lightingfacts.com/Downloa...ance_Scale.pdf
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Old 12-22-2013, 09:46 PM   #87
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DID I understand correctly that marine tp costs $11 a roll?

But, I did read a 27 page study that said that if I used this $11 tp, I would extend the life of my toilet by three years. That's a wopping savings of $22,000 dollars in 12 years as long as my boat stays in the northern hemisphere due to the coriolis effect.
Please note, it is an effect and not a force.
Thanks for listening.
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Old 12-23-2013, 01:30 AM   #88
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Our lighting is 100% 12VDC and all LED. In the saloon I have fitted all new fixtures but elsewhere, i.e. cabins and ER I have used the retrofit LED lamps.

I have had no voltage related issues and am very pleased with the light levels & power consumption.
Me too. All 12v - the whole boat is. I added strip LEDS (rotatable to direct reading light) in the saloon above the seating, and over the beds, and ceiling one over galley, but retained the 3 incandescents in the saloon ceiling for if we want extra. Seldom do though. Also LED anchor and cockpit light, but have not changed the running lights to LED yes - the std ones won't die, and the engine is always running when they are on, by definition, so low priority so far.
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Old 12-23-2013, 01:54 AM   #89
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Same here...17 replacement LEDs, including the spreaders and anchor light, with zero failures. Some were bulb change out only, some were replacement fixtures. All 12V and VERY satisfied with the lighting intensity, color and power consumption. I still have 2 fluorescent lights in the salon which I might change, but we seldom use them at anchor.
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Old 12-23-2013, 10:33 AM   #90
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Originally Posted by David Carter View Post
I would really like to convert all my dc lighting to led. Could someone give me more info on the cheap option from eBay. Like witch ones you recommend. And maybe explain a little more on the brightness or dimmers. I don't like bright bright but soft light. But bright might be good at times like in the engine room or even in the salon at times.
For our boat we use allot of G4 bulbs that have the pins sticking straight up into the fixture. Sixty four of them to be exact.

All I did was find someone that sold those bulbs in a LED version. If I remember there were two brightnesses to choose from. I chose the brighter ones.

Thwere was also "warm white" color vs "bright white" color. I got a mixture.

The warm white is very similar to a standard bulb, kind wellowish.

The bright white is whiter, very white.

I'm not sure which ones I like better. What I did is to keep all the same color in the same set of fixtures, controlled by the same switch.

I also used two of the rope lights 16' long each. There are two general types of these, the kind with sticky tape and the full round kind. Each have their place, but to me the tape was worthless.

In terms of brightness, the lights are brighter than the originals they replaced.
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Old 12-23-2013, 11:12 AM   #91
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I bought 48 LED panels. The kind that comes with all the various adapters. I then gutted my fixtures and threw away the 30 watt automobile bulbs and their sockets. I then silicon-ed the panels in and soldered the lead to the fixture switch and the other for ground. I gutted my florescents and put 4 - 48 LED Panels in. I have way more light than before and have to turn on eight or nine fixtures to see it on the panel ammeter. Everything I have except running lights are LED. I would do running lights except that they need to be for like 1 or 2 NM and many of the bulbs do not have the right certs.
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Old 12-24-2013, 11:31 AM   #92
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Peter B & FlyWright.....did you buy the cheapie ebay type bulbs or the more expensive versions here? How about the fixtures? The more expensive ones usually say they are 9-30 volt capable, since they already have the CCCV buck adapter to control the voltage and current. ALso how much time do you have on them now?
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Old 12-24-2013, 01:41 PM   #93
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Originally Posted by aronhk_md View Post
Peter B & FlyWright.....did you buy the cheapie ebay type bulbs or the more expensive versions here? How about the fixtures? The more expensive ones usually say they are 9-30 volt capable, since they already have the CCCV buck adapter to control the voltage and current. Also how much time do you have on them now?
My oldest fixtures are over 3 years old. They were spontaneous purchases to test them out. I found them in Cabela's clearance room for $12 per fixture. They are a harsh white, but work pretty well for illuminating the fwd stateroom which we use for storage. I have also added battery powered LED light bars with motion sensors to provide additional light down there in the cave. If I was to do it again, I'd buy warm white lights.

Several months ago I bought the bayonet type bulbs at Amazon through Brightech. These replaced the ER bulbs in the existing fixtures. At about $10 per bulb, they were neither the cheapest nor the most expensive, but they were the brightest I could find (highest lumens) in warm white with 36 elements per bulb.



About 2 years ago, I was going to do a bulb replacement in the salon fixtures but they were dated. Also, I found that the fixtures were heated by the old bulbs and were starting to melt into the vinyl headliner in spots, so I replaced them. I wanted to retain the red/white capability in the salon so I ordered units similar to these from Aqua Signal. They were $30-40 per fixture.

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Old 12-24-2013, 05:42 PM   #94
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Mine were a swap (I had hinges, he had lights and sockets) ... The fellow said he paid $5 including shipping from China and so far I've had one that burned out partially. The rest: one in a Davis anchor light -- the company didn't reply TWICE to a complaint when it failed so finally I gave up and made it work myself with the cheap o's (muttering at lousy customer service), one in the galley, one by my solar regulator (installed in a fixture from a life-raft) and the final by my bunk.

Anyway, this is the one by my bunk and it's had a lot of use (three years, every night 'cause I read in bunk) without issue. As a matter of fact, the only failure I had was one from West (bayonet style) that was replaced under warranty.
Mine:


The wooden piece that swivels is a left-over from a quilting hoop frame. It's not fancy, but it works. Usually I have an opaque cap over the end to dim it -- it's too bright as is though in the galley fixture I find it just fine. And at the cost (50 cents each), well, that will buy a lot of replacements.

Second picture with the light out so you can actually see it:


Museum Putty holds it in place though at some point I might do something more professional looking. Seaweed is a boat, and she suits me.
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Old 12-24-2013, 07:27 PM   #95
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Hi Kevin
I have recently filled in almost every socket in my gb46 with the cheapie ebay bayonet and reading reflector replacement bulbs. Only ones that have given trouble are the 2 festoon bulbs in the main panel. Wish I could save as much energy on the cold plate compressor! Dan
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Old 12-24-2013, 08:29 PM   #96
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Hi Kevin
I have recently filled in almost every socket in my gb46 with the cheapie ebay bayonet and reading reflector replacement bulbs. Only ones that have given trouble are the 2 festoon bulbs in the main panel. Wish I could save as much energy on the cold plate compressor! Dan
Glad to hear they're working out Dan!
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Old 12-24-2013, 10:55 PM   #97
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I already changed all internal and external LED light for now would like to put lights under the water with LED, anyone have any information?
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Old 12-24-2013, 11:20 PM   #98
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I already changed all internal and external LED light for now would like to put lights under the water with LED, anyone have any information?
I recommend the Sea Blaze X series from lumitec.
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