Advantages of a 24 volt system

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Joined
Oct 7, 2007
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3,146
Location
USA
Vessel Name
Apache II
Vessel Make
1974 Donald Jones
Is there any real advantage to having a 24 volt system on your boat?

SD
 
Using the electrical equation E=IR, a higher voltage means less current. Less current translates into lower wire size for a given run. That's one advantage, particularly for a larger boat with longer wire runs.
 
I was just reading that newer electronics have internal regulators that can use 9 to 30 V input. One size fits all...
 
As Red pointed out less current and thus smaller wiring. SOmetimes a bit more tolerance for Vdrops but still limits.

However, for most of us NO, particularily if you have to change things to get it = expensive.
 
I put 24 v in Delfin, but also had to have 12 v for the appliances that weren't available as 24 v, so yes, I saved some money on smaller wiring because of the lower amperage needed compared to 12 v, but this was offset by added complexity at the panels.* If you're going to run a lot of wire, sure.* Otherwise, probably not so much and almost certainly not if you're retrofitting since you probably can't completely avoid at least some 12 v circuitry.
 
For better or worse, my boat is coming with 24-volt DC, and 110-volt AC.
 
If your boat comes with 24v as ours did, or it's an option on a new boat, it's great.
Reduced current means less voltage drop. "Everything is brighter and works better" is the best I can describe it, e.g. the 24v toilet has a lot of grunt!

However, some items can be a little hard to find - some light bulbs for example, and you may need*a 12v convertor in order to run a VHF radio,*car stereo*or laptop.

I certainly wouldn't convert to 24v from 12v, or let it influence a buying decision unduly, but would definitely specify 24v on a new build.
 
It the smaller wire size that is the limiting factor as the smaller wired sized for 24 volt will not handle the 12 volt. So you could be stuck with 24 volts.* *However, wire sized for12 volt wire will hand the 24 volts, so you can change to 24 volts if you want to.* There are *two applications on the Eagle that 24 volts might be better, windless and starting the engines.*******

So if you re not sure, best to run wire sized for 12 volt.
 
I'd hope that the builder/installer was using 24 volts to provide more power rather than*reducing costs*by using*thinner wire.
 
I have a 12/24 /240 Volt system on my boat.
As the engine was 24 volt that is what we started with. 2 x 15 watt voltage reducers to run stuff which at that stage had to be 12 volt.
This has worked well for me.
The 24 V is more efficient but the downside is that 24 volt equipment is more expensive than 12 V and in some instances the chandelery does not carry it.
items such as lights, bilge p/ps etc.

Benn
 
The more modern engines frequently need 24 for their injection computers.

24 is great as the 12V for the few items needing it can be produced by a Vanner (www.vanner.com/ )

12V bulbs are cheaper and can be has in 12V for interior and reading lamps and 14V for running lights.

Our outfitting method is bulk purchases of wire and almost everything is 10ga, so 12 or 24 only detirmines the CB size.
 
In theory, 24 volts would be better than 12 volts. In practice, since it is uncommon and few appliances are available in 24 volt versions, it is not something that I would consider.
 
You can always use (2) 12VDC batteries in series or any combination that gives 24VDC with the abilty to take a feed at the 12 volt mid point. Then run one feed to the 24VDC panel and the other feed to a 12VDC panel. You could have the best of both worlds if needed based on the battery AH rating.
I run mostly modern Garmin equipment and all of the new devices will run from 9VDC to 30VDC. I have never tested them below 10.5VDC or above 28.5VDC. Even their VHF100 through 300 radios accept a wide range of DC voltages.
Bill
 
"You can always use (2) 12VDC batteries in series or any combination that gives 24VDC with the abilty to take a feed at the 12 volt mid point. Then run one feed to the 24VDC panel and the other feed to a 12VDC panel. You could have the best of both worlds if needed based on the battery AH rating."


This guarentees the rapid death of both batts in the hookup.

One from discharging the other from over charging.

The Vannier actually does this by switching from one batt to the other , a couple of times a min, so both go up and down TOGETHER!
 
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