Adding a 30 amp

The friendliest place on the web for anyone who enjoys boating.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.

KEVMAR

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 5, 2014
Messages
289
Location
USA
Vessel Name
Delphina
Vessel Make
President 43
My boat has only one 30 amp receptacle. At One point a ac unit was installed .. I am thinking of running a separate 30 amp receptacle for just the ac .. is this a job I can do my self or should I hire an electrician?? The ac unit has its own delicated fuse box .. just wire the ac fuse box to the new receptacle.,.would seem like an easy job ???? Thank your
 
Cord

The reason I’m asking is that this is what happened to my power cord .. maybe to much to handle with ac refrigerator and coffee maker running st the same time ..
 

Attachments

  • 3628F591-4504-4509-8CE0-3ACF3A4B72B4.jpg
    3628F591-4504-4509-8CE0-3ACF3A4B72B4.jpg
    60.1 KB · Views: 50
Think about load shedding , a simple $60 or so relay that will cut out one circuit so the heavy load can operate.

A wall switch for the coffee maker (1500W?) could cut off the air cond when its on , which should keep you down to 30A
 
You can add another 30A shorepower inlet and run wiring almost directly to your A/C's "fuse box". I say almost directly because ABYC standards require a separate breaker within a few inches of the shore power inlet.

Whether you can do it yourself depends on your skills in both the design and standards compliance, ie the separate breaker as well as mechanical skills in running the wire and making the connections.

David
 
mine has two units on a 30 that were added . it needs to be redone as it has fuses in and receptacle box and should have two easy to excess breakers .
do you have a generator if you do you will need a transfer switch designed for two line inlets. you can supply both gen side inlets with the one generator .
 
You can add another 30A shorepower inlet and run wiring almost directly to your A/C's "fuse box". I say almost directly because ABYC standards require a separate breaker within a few inches of the shore power inlet.

Whether you can do it yourself depends on your skills in both the design and standards compliance, ie the separate breaker as well as mechanical skills in running the wire and making the connections.

David
Within 10 feet of the power inlet on the boat there needs to exist another set of breakers or fuses. I have this at 6 feet from the inlet on my boat.

ABYC E-11.10.2.8.1.3: If the location of the main shore power disconnect circuit breaker is in excess of 10 feet (three meters) from the shore power inlet or the electrical attachment point of a permanently installed shore power cord, additional fuses or circuit breakers shall be provided within 10 feet (three meters) of the inlet or attachment point to the electrical system of the boat. Measurement is made along the conductors.
 
Last edited:
+1 one the 10 feet for the inlet breaker. You can add a second 30 amp inlet fairly easily, but I do a lot of electrical work on boats so if you are not comfortable doing it find someone who is knowledgeable on boat wiring not house wiring. You need to seperate the neutrals so they are only connected to the new breaker panel. Otherwise you will trip the new GFIs on the docks. If you don’t understand what this means, then I recommend you get some help. Good luck, it really isn’t too hard if you have some experience in boat wiring.
 
Yes, it needs to break open both hot and neutral wires, all wires need to open except the ground wire. Most people can use a 30 amp dual pole breaker.

Keeping neutral wire on new line separate from the other shore wire neutral is important. You don't want a current flow imbalance, which can theoretically overload one of the plugs with more than 30 amps burning it up. All power coming in needs to return through the same plug. A GFCI could trip or you can burn up the plug. Stuff happens.
 
Last edited:
I would suggest hiring a marine electrician to figure it out for you.
 
Back
Top Bottom