AC/DC clamp meter to buy?

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Don't auto ranging ones select the best range for accuracy?

If so I believe most of the zkleins are autoranging.


I'm sure some do. The ones I've used which admittedly have not been very high end, were all manual ranging.
 
This is not how accuracy on a meter reading is determined. A meter with a 1% accuracy means just that, any reading it SHOWS is accurate to 1%.Ken


I guess I'm confused how this is different from what I said?
 
That the 1% accuracy is for the range either manually or auto selected....not the entire range of the instrument
 
That the 1% accuracy is for the range either manually or auto selected....not the entire range of the instrument

NO NO NO, the accuracy is + or - (plus or minus) 1%
 
That the 1% accuracy is for the range either manually or auto selected....not the entire range of the instrument


But that's what I said. On the 400A scale 1% would be +/- 4A, and on the 40A scale it would be +/1 0.4A.
 
Here is a very recent article by Jeff Cote out of Vancouver. He writes articles for two cruising Pacific Northwest and BC magazines in their electronic section. He also is a yearly speaker at the Seattle and Vancouver boat shows:

https://www.pysystems.ca/site/assets/files/2667/py_sept19_72-75_tech_talk.pdf


I have the Bluesea meter shown in that article. I doubt it is a professional meter but I use the clamp meter functions all the time. Also resistance for conductivity and volt meter. I’m quite pleased with it. I don’t know who makes it for Bluesea.

Jim
 
I have had good service from the Uni-T 210 meter.

+1 on the Uni-T 210E.

After dropping my Fluke 87V ($300+) in the water and destroying it, I decided to leave the Flukes at home and bought less expensive meters to use on the boat.

Being able to measure very small DC currents is one of the main reasons I need a clamp on ammeter on the boat, so I did a lot of research finding one that was not too expensive but would work well for me. The Uni-T 210E is well respected on some engineering forums that I refer to, so I decided to give it a try. You have to be really careful measuring small DC currents with a clamp meter or you will end up with inaccurate results.
 
We've been using this one for the past couple of years. It does everything you'd ever want.
http://tinyurl.com/uro65qw

Sanderling is for sale.


What model do you guys recommend?
I have chargers, inverter, 840AH Trojan batteries, battery monitor, main engine alternator, generator alternator 15A, generator dynamo 40A, wires, cables of all sizes.
I need a reliable, basic, not very expensive meter.
 
+1 on the Uni-T 210E....You have to be really careful measuring small DC currents with a clamp meter or you will end up with inaccurate results.

I agree. I had to learn to zero the meter in the spatial plane that I intended to use the meter in because it sees the earth's mag field and that shows as 2 or 3 milliamps bouncing around on the meter. Like any tool, 'ya can learn how to get the most out of it.

Sorry to hear you splashed your Fluke. I always tried to treat them gently like old oscilloscopes. That could be a whole 'nother thread, good stuff sent to the bottom of the marina! (not that I want to be reminded!)
 
+1 on the Uni-T 210E.

After dropping my Fluke 87V ($300+) in the water and destroying it, I decided to leave the Flukes at home and bought less expensive meters to use on the boat.

WHY did you take the meter outside?
 
I once read an article by the gentleman who heads one of the boating related companies like (don't quote me) "Cruising Equipment" which I think he started after losing a son to electric shock drowning. He recommended a Hioki clamp-on meter, which I purchased. It cost a lot more than the digital meter (non-clamp) I have from Harbor Freight for messing about, and I can provide the model if requested - it lives on the boat.
 
When measuring small amps with the clamp on meter, it helps to wrap the wire around one clamp a couple of times if there's enough play in the wiring, then divide the resulting amperage by the number of wraps plus 1 (the first wrap doubles the read-out) to get the true amps.


I agree. I had to learn to zero the meter in the spatial plane that I intended to use the meter in because it sees the earth's mag field and that shows as 2 or 3 milliamps bouncing around on the meter. Like any tool, 'ya can learn how to get the most out of it.)
 


I started using Fluke clamp-on ammeter/voltmeters when I started as a pro. Of course I used them on my own boat too. This Klein has the identical overall shape, buttons, features of a Fluke with just some graphic labeling and plastic housing differences. I suspect it is either made by Fluke or licensed from Fluke or made in the same factory wherever that may be. What's under the covers is important and the Amazon specs don't give all the details. But if I were going for a new meter for my own use I would certainly look at this Klein given the very good price. I have used Klein tools for many years and they are top-notch.
 
Fluke 374-FC
Has it all and bluetooths to your phone so you can have the meter taking readings on one end of the boat while you are turning on or changing a load somewhere else.
Re. Checking amperage of a start cable while you start the engine. Will record max reading as well.

FLUKE-374 FC 600A Ac/Dc TRMS Wireless Clamp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017OVC2GW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-3t7DbTA1S1JX
 
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