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Old 12-01-2014, 07:49 PM   #21
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I guess I dont understand why you would not want to charge everything when the main (s) are running. Typically the main is incredibly inefficient so loading up the alternator can only help. I have a pair of 250 amp 24 volt 50DNs in an attempt to get more load at low rpm.
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Old 12-02-2014, 02:19 AM   #22
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My alternators are appropriately sized for the battery banks receiving the charges while underway. I isolate my start battery from the charge being received by the house bank in a few circumstances:

1. If I come into a marina with a hungry house bank and a full start battery, I'll leave the start battery isolated to prevent overcharging of the start batt while the house gets its needed bulk and absorption charges.

2. When I'm underway, my twin alternators provide the charge needed to each battery bank independently. Usually, there is no need to combine them.

3. If my start battery is fully charged at the home marina and I'm planning to head back out within a week or so, I can leave the banks separated so the single bank shore charger just charges the house bank. It probably wouldn't hurt getting a float charge, but it's also not really needed for that short period. On the other hand, my house bank almost always needs a charge when I return home so it gets what it needs from the shore charger in my absence.
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Old 12-02-2014, 07:22 AM   #23
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I have a pair of 250 amp 24 volt 50DNs in an attempt to get more load at low rpm.

These will only help IF you installed a 3 or 4 stage V regulator .

The stock bus unit will not charge very hard a discharged bat set.

It will only charge 50% of what is needed to fill the batts at any time.

Fine when the set is low , but stinks when you are at 80% and its charging very little.

AS the 50DN are powerful be sure to get a batt thermometer with the better V reg.
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Old 12-02-2014, 10:49 AM   #24
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I guess I dont understand why you would not want to charge everything when the main (s) are running. Typically the main is incredibly inefficient so loading up the alternator can only help. I have a pair of 250 amp 24 volt 50DNs in an attempt to get more load at low rpm.
No no no. When the mains are running, everything that needs a charge will get charged.
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Old 12-04-2014, 11:53 PM   #25
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Well thought I would close this out. Finished the install. Still have 4 more batteries to buy, buy all the wiring is done. With the four batteries and 2 banks I have 840 amp hours which will increase to 1680 Ah when I buy the other batteries. Check out my blog for more pics.
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Old 12-05-2014, 02:38 AM   #26
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Well thought I would close this out. Finished the install. Still have 4 more batteries to buy, buy all the wiring is done. With the four batteries and 2 banks I have 840 amp hours which will increase to 1680 Ah when I buy the other batteries. Check out my blog for more pics.
I suspect you don't have that many Ah. By putting 2 x 6V batteries rated at 210 Ah in series you end up with 210 Ah at 12V. With 4 x 6V batteries of 210 Ah each you will get a 12v bank of 420 Ah, not 840 Ah.
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Old 12-05-2014, 07:04 AM   #27
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> With 4 x 6V batteries of 210 Ah each you will get a 12v bank of 420 Ah, not 840 Ah.<

Even with 420AH a good question is how will they be recharged?

It becomes an even bigger hassle if 840AH are installed.

50% dead, About 15% to charge , with another 5% to push it in , would require an alt hot rated of about 175Amps per hour.With a very smart V reg.

Splitting into two banks to charge with two truck 135A Alts might work, with enough engine time.

With a charger from a noisemaker ($10.00 hour total run cost) it wont be fun!!
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Old 12-05-2014, 10:32 AM   #28
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Well below is what Instate Battery sent me. You maybe correct. I will have have to email this guy back with a follow up question.

Charging isn't an issue. The batteries will be charge either by the engines or a on board battery charger.

Tom,
Thank you for your inquiry here at the home office of Interstate Batteries, Inc. The total ampere-hour would be 416Ah each bank with a grand total for 2 banks of 832Ah. I have attached a sheet for the recommended charging for your batteries. Always monitor the water levels and add distilled water when needed. The recommended water levels would be a minimum of ” over the plates or 1/8” below the vent well (the tube looking down into each cell). Equalization should be done every 4-8 weeks or when specific gravities have a .010-.015 point difference between each individual cells. Fully charged the specific gravities should be 1.285 or greater. Let me know if you need any additional information.

Thanks,
Jeff Barron
Engineering & Technical Service Specialist
Interstate Batteries, Inc.
10200 Plano Rd. Suite #400
Dallas, Tx. 75238
Ph. 469-221-4655
Fax 469-374-6117
Email: jeff.barron@ibsa.com

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Old 12-05-2014, 11:00 AM   #29
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Here is the Charging recommendations they sent me:

Charging recommendations for 6-volt deep cycle batteries. GC2-XHD, GC2-HD, GC2-RD
Nominal Battery Voltage
Charging Current
Bulk Charge Voltage (2.41 VPC)
Absorption Voltage (2.55 VPC)
Absorption Time in Hours
Float Voltage (2.23 VPC)
Equalization Voltage (2.6 VPC)
Equalization Time in Hours
6 Volt (3 cells)
C / 10
7.23
7.65
2 to 4
6.7
7.8
2
8 Volt (4 cells)
C / 10
9.64
10.2
2 to 4
8.92
10.4
2
12 Volt (6 cells)
C / 10
14.46
15.3
2 to 4
13.4
15.6
2
24 Volt (12 cells)
C / 10
28.92
30.6
2 to 4
26.8
31.2
2
36 Volts (18 cells)
C / 10
43.38
45.9
2 to 4
40.2
46.8
2
48 Volts (24 cells)
C / 10
57.84
61.2
2 to 4
53.5
62.4
2


Notes: 1. All charging voltages shown above are for 80 degrees F. For every 10 degrees above 80 F reduce voltage by 0.028 VPC. For every 10 degrees below 80 F increase the voltage by 0.028 VPC.
2. VPC = Voltage Per Cell
3. Charging current; C = The amp hour (Ah) capacity rated at the 20 hour rate.
4. Float condition is for long term storage / (several weeks) inactivity. 5. Equalize every 4 to 8 weeks or when the difference in
specific gravity readings vary by 0.020 points or more and always after a normal charge.

Other Charging Notes/Tips/ Definitions: Temperature Compensation: Increase voltage by .028 volts per cell for every 10 degrees below 80 F. Decrease voltage by .028 volts per cell for every 10 degrees above 80F. Typical phases on multi-stage chargers: Bulk: Initial phase where the voltage builds and the most current is provided to the battery. This is typically where the maximum current that the charger is capable of providing is supplied to the battery.
i.e. A 10 amp charger will provide at or near 10 amps during this phase. Absorption: The phase where the voltage set point is held constant. Current will decrease gradually during this point as the battery internal resistance comes up. Float:

The maintenance or finishing phase of the charging cycle. Voltage is set at a minimum during this phase (usually 13.0c-13.5v) and current drops significantly. The battery should be nearly complete by the time this phase is reached. An anti
sulfation stage may be added where voltage spikes to high levels for very brief time periods for a set amount of time determined by the charger manufacturer, to convert the battery active material back to it's original state. Badly sulfated batteries will not usually respond to this charging regime and will need to be replaced.
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Old 12-05-2014, 11:34 AM   #30
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Well so now it is all cleared up. See email below. It would appear that Ahs are only increased when you add batteries in parallel. So right now with 2 banks of 2 batteries each I have a total of 416Ahs. When I add the additional batteries, I will increase it to 832Ahs.

Thomas,

May I get a clarification with regard to what is being considered a bank of batteries just to insure I am on the same page.

2- golf car batteries connected in series for a total of 12-volts would only equal the ampere hour of the one battery. Example: Each battery is rated at 208 Ahs and when connected in series is equal to a total of 208 Ah for that bank.

So a four battery system in series/parallel is 416Ah.

To get to 1,664, it would take 16 six volt batteries connected in series/parallel.

Gale

From: Teseniar,Thomas A
Sent: Friday, December 05, 2014 9:47 AM
To: Mr Battery
Cc: Dawn Dumar (6839); Roy Hellmund (4654); Gale Kimbrough (4657)
Subject: RE: House Batteries for my Yacht


Good morning everyone.

I have a follow-up question regarding Ah.

Each battery bank currently has two batteries per bank, and each bank has 416Ah for a total of 832Ah for 2 banks according to your email below.

I have room to add 2 more batteries per bank for a total of 4 batteries per bank. I still have them connected in such a way that I have an output of 12Vdc from each bank. (series and parallel)

By added additional batteries does this increase the Ahs? By adding 2 additional batteries to each bank does that double the Ahs? (1664Ah)

Thanks again.

Thomas Teseniar

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Old 02-18-2015, 11:42 AM   #31
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Thumbs up Just to finish off

Last week I scrapped the old battery Isolator and went with a new ProMariner unit that is completely electronic and very easy to install. The old isolator need a diode kit installed on the start batteries and the kit was no longer available. The new one allows two alternator inputs and 4 battery outputs. The system also prioritizes the start batteries before charging your house batteries.

No I need to go get 4 more batteries (8 total) and my system is complete

Here is what I installed:

http://promariner.com/products/prolsocharge-series/
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Old 02-18-2015, 04:10 PM   #32
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Hard to tell in a picture but those cables look kind of small for the kind of amps you are talking about.
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Old 02-18-2015, 04:16 PM   #33
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Nice install Tom. I am really impressed with how white and clean your ER is. I have a Promariner setup on our trawler. It is working great so far. I am in the middle of installing three 150 watt semi-flexible solar panels on our bimini. I can wait till its done so I can share the completed project with the forum.
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Old 02-19-2015, 11:45 AM   #34
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Hard to tell in a picture but those cables look kind of small for the kind of amps you are talking about.
Which wires are you refering too? I followed the manufactures recommendations and also went one step above what they recommended. For the battery cabled, I used #2 wire and the wires coming off the alternator are #6 and the ignition sensing wires are #12.
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Old 02-19-2015, 11:48 AM   #35
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Nice install Tom. I am really impressed with how white and clean your ER is. I have a Promariner setup on our trawler. It is working great so far. I am in the middle of installing three 150 watt semi-flexible solar panels on our bimini. I can wait till its done so I can share the completed project with the forum.
Thanks. It is starting to get crowded down there. I too have been thinking about solar, but I am not part of the "don't run your Genny" crowd. If I need power I start my genny, that is what it is there for. I will tell you my genny is very very quit, so you can bearly hear it.

BTW nice job on your too.
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Old 02-20-2015, 06:07 PM   #36
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Nice install Tom. I am really impressed with how white and clean your ER is. I have a Promariner setup on our trawler. It is working great so far. I am in the middle of installing three 150 watt semi-flexible solar panels on our bimini. I can wait till its done so I can share the completed project with the forum.
I am very interested in how your solar project comes out. Being on a mooring or on the hook most of the time, I want to find a better way of keeping the house bank charged without having to run the genny all the time. Every time I look at various ways to get (or keep) the house bank charged, I keep going back to solar as being the most efficient.

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Old 02-20-2015, 07:40 PM   #37
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I am very interested in how your solar project comes out. Being on a mooring or on the hook most of the time, I want to find a better way of keeping the house bank charged without having to run the genny all the time. Every time I look at various ways to get (or keep) the house bank charged, I keep going back to solar as being the most efficient.

Ken
Just do it, you won`t regret it. It`s the easy way to keep batteries fully charged, and to cram that last 15% of charge into the battery, by relentless charging, via a good controller of course.
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Old 02-21-2015, 07:30 AM   #38
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Solar does a great job of keeping batteries up, as the time required for that last 10%-15% of charge is daily and silent.

Solars problem is it is seldom large enough to handle the huge load from refrigeration.

Topping batts up or creating 200AH a day are two different requirements.

We have no shore power on out boat , the solar or use of the vessel keep everything fine , for multiple seasons.

Refrigeration is Propane .
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Old 02-21-2015, 10:20 AM   #39
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Thanks. It is starting to get crowded down there. I too have been thinking about solar, but I am not part of the "don't run your Genny" crowd. If I need power I start my genny, that is what it is there for.
Solar panels were added to Bay Pelican as 1) cost savings device, payback in saved diesel, maintenance already has paid for them, 2) backup with the solar panels and wind generator I can stay off the dock if the genset goes down, and 3) length of time between generator runs - we can leave the boat for 12/14 hours to tour without worrying about the power level.
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Old 01-13-2016, 10:03 PM   #40
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Tom, what do you have now as your 12V house bank in AH? 832? More?
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