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Old 01-06-2015, 09:39 AM   #21
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Might not be valid for all European countries, I don't think that it is European law. Would be surprised if it was so on the continent...



best regards / med venlig hilsen
wadden

In fact, Ireland is the only country I've seen it so far.

Good for me thoough
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Old 01-06-2015, 09:47 AM   #22
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I was going to reply just that yesterday but have been thinking about it.

Looked up the boat you mention on YW an could not find the name of the genny nor capacity so it isn't easy to answer your question. My suspicion is most will run at 60 or 50hz and there should be a switch or jumpers to control that. But if everything else is native 50hz and you have the Atlas system, why would you want to change? The only reasons I could think of is it all the outlets on the boat are wired to foreign standards and you want to change them out to use US appliances and the like. Seems like a much more complicated issue than simply changing the generator.

I saw one smaller Nordy on YW which was $50K below market and one of the rationale was it was 50hz native and had to be rewired. Don't recall if it had the Atlas system. It didn't sound like it was a cheap fix. Couldn't find it on YW yesterday so it might have sold or been removed from the market.
Thinking about it now, i don't think its a super big job. Just Switch out the receptacles. Reprogram the Atlas. New inveter chargers. Wirirng size shoudl nto be a problem because i don't thing they change the wire size between 60&50Hz boats. HVAC depends, some of Cruisairs are both 60&50Hz compatible while others aren't. Then there are things like the watermaker. Not fond of Village Marine water makers anyways. Also ER blowers might have to be changed but thats not a big job either. Im not super sure about the appliances though.
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Old 01-06-2015, 09:59 AM   #23
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Thanks all for the answers. Was just checking out boats and one of them was a 50hz boat.

Guess it'd be a pretty big job to convert a 50hz boat to 60hz.
That's a whole different question.

It's fine for a water heater, but with today's modern electronics, it's a whole different story.

At this point, I try to only buy applicances that are 120/240 60/50 hz so I can use them on sure power, with my Inverter or the gen
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Old 01-06-2015, 10:28 AM   #24
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Frequency is not such a big deal but voltage is.
If the boat is 220VAC 50HZ converting to 120VVAC is much more of a problem. Wiring and breakers are different as systems things like motors will draw 2X the current at 120V as at 220V.


IMO this is non trivial.
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Old 01-06-2015, 10:29 AM   #25
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It is not uncommon for Nordhavns to have dual system capacity. Without getting into specifics, what says Nordhavn?


PS - Have you seen the pictures and video of the Polar Star fire?
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Old 01-06-2015, 05:10 PM   #26
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Thinking about it now, i don't think its a super big job. Just Switch out the receptacles. Reprogram the Atlas. New inveter chargers. Wirirng size shoudl nto be a problem because i don't thing they change the wire size between 60&50Hz boats. HVAC depends, some of Cruisairs are both 60&50Hz compatible while others aren't. Then there are things like the watermaker. Not fond of Village Marine water makers anyways. Also ER blowers might have to be changed but thats not a big job either. Im not super sure about the appliances though.
Serious warning flags here. Think again. Or better still get advice from a qualified marine electrician and a good Surveyor.

I turned a 120V / 60 Hz boat into a 230V / 50 Hz boat. Well, mostly. And with expert help. Wiring gauge is likely to be an issue going the other way around, particularly to meet relevant Standards which is likely required for insurance.

First make an inventory of AC only appliances. I know Twisted chose to run lots of AC items when he built and hence his extensive listing in his post, but most folks have DC units where feasible and the AC stuff is quite limited in number. If that's the case then it may not be too difficult to workaround.

My workaround included adding some new receptacles and changing just a couple for the 230V /50 Hz circuits, which were also on a new, additional breaker panel. In some cases that will mean ending up with 120V and 230V receptacles next to each other, such as for the washer and dryer. I'm still running those 120V units here is Oz at the moment via a step down transformer but will be replacing them with 230V units soon. The washer works OK on 50Hz but if ambient temps are hot then the dryer overheats and shuts off part way through a drying cycle. I do not want to continue running inductive loads designed for 60Hz on 50 Hz long term. I believe it is a fire risk. On the other hand and as noted above, resistive loads are not really a problem, so I'm fine with my 120V toaster.

Its an item by item assessment once you have a full inventory of AC items. But I think its easier to go the direction I did. Most 230V / 50 Hz minor electrical items I buy come with wall-warts that accept wide voltage and frequency inputs. On the other hand, buying similar stuff in Nth America I found that often the wart would accept 120v/60Hz only.
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Old 01-06-2015, 05:21 PM   #27
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Serious warning flags here. Think again. Or better still get advice from a qualified marine electrician and a good Surveyor.

I turned a 120V / 60 Hz boat into a 230V / 50 Hz boat. Well, mostly. And with expert help. Wiring gauge is likely to be an issue going the other way around, particularly to meet relevant Standards which is likely required for insurance.

First make an inventory of AC only appliances. I know Twisted chose to run lots of AC items when he built and hence his extensive listing in his post, but most folks have DC units where feasible and the AC stuff is quite limited in number. If that's the case then it may not be too difficult to workaround.

My workaround included adding some new receptacles and changing just a couple for the 230V /50 Hz circuits, which were also on a new, additional breaker panel. In some cases that will mean ending up with 120V and 230V receptacles next to each other, such as for the washer and dryer. I'm still running those 120V units here is Oz at the moment via a step down transformer but will be replacing them with 230V units soon. The washer works OK on 50Hz but if ambient temps are hot then the dryer overheats and shuts off part way through a drying cycle. I do not want to continue running inductive loads designed for 60Hz on 50 Hz long term. I believe it is a fire risk. On the other hand and as noted above, resistive loads are not really a problem, so I'm fine with my 120V toaster.

Its an item by item assessment once you have a full inventory of AC items. But I think its easier to go the direction I did. Most 230V / 50 Hz minor electrical items I buy come with wall-warts that accept wide voltage and frequency inputs. On the other hand, buying similar stuff in Nth America I found that often the wart would accept 120v/60Hz only.

We're not seriously buying another boat yet, Was just looking. Of course I would get an Marine electrician. As to wire size I remember talking to a PAE broker and he said that they use the same wire gauge (it must be overkill) so if owners decide to change there boats they can. I realize it's not just changing out outlets. I'd rather have AC over DC for as much as possible. We like to run our generator wherever we go.
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Old 01-06-2015, 05:23 PM   #28
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It is not uncommon for Nordhavns to have dual system capacity. Without getting into specifics, what says Nordhavn?


PS - Have you seen the pictures and video of the Polar Star fire?

Haven't asked them.

Was Polar Star a 76 because I do remember seeing a posting and pictures of what liked a N76 burnt to the waterline?
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