50 amp.SmartPlug

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Tellico Bob

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 14, 2014
Messages
104
Location
USA
Vessel Name
Twilight Time
Vessel Make
1986 48' Californian MY
Has anyone had any experience with a 50 amp SmartPlug. Good or bad. I installed one on my boat in Sept 2016 and it started to fail in October 2017. Manufacturer replaced it no questions ask but claimed the problem was in my boat. I disagree and wonder if anyone out there has had a similar experience.
 
We installled a 50 amp set four yrs ago with no issues to date. How did yours fail?
 
there have been a few complaints against smart plugs through the years...

interesting to see them still trickling in....especially in the 50S category...

regular 50 A 125/250 V plugs with little or no maintenance and without wayyyyyy over current demands seem to do just fine in my experience.
 
Has anyone had any experience with a 50 amp SmartPlug. Good or bad.
Just finished my third year on a SmartPlug 50a/240v with no problems. I've been using the 30a & 50a plugs since they first came out.:blush:
 

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No Problems

I bought one when they first came out -- must have been four or five years ago. I have had no problems with continuous use. The company is very easy to deal with. Their 50 foot 30 amp cords were out of stock, so they gave me a 25 foot one while I was waiting and didn't expect it back!
 
Love mine. No problems. I suspect that the issue may be user error when installing the plug on the existing cordset. Just a suspicion.
 
I used the 30amp Smartplugs on my sailboat for a number of years. It performed exceptionally, despite it being my that installed the receptacle on my boat and replaced the plug on one cord set.

While I really like the Smartplug, I’ve not yet felt the need to change my 50a/125v plug on my boat to SmartPlug. I’m not even sure they make that oddball configuration. The 50 amp plugs are very solid and secure compared to the 30amp, so I have less concerns.
 
search TF...sevetal threads discussing Smart Plug isdues.

Not real common, but some.
 
Many marina’s in the NW are requiring your shore cord to be UL approved. The smart plug is not UL approved. This is starting to become a bit of an issue.

I am not suggesting that the smart plug is inferior, in fact I feel it is superior. However smart plug for what ever reason has failed to get UL approval. Make sure your marina does not have a UL approved policy before investing in a smart plug cord set.
 
However smart plug for what ever reason has failed to get UL approval.
My understanding is that the adherence to the standard prong shape/configuration is PART of the criteria for UL approval. Hence it can never be approved.
 
My understanding is that the adherence to the standard prong shape/configuration is PART of the criteria for UL approval. Hence it can never be approved.

That might be true. Doesn’t help the fact that more and more marinas are going to a UL approved policy. At this point it hasn’t reached critical mass but it’s not helping that the largest marina in Seattle has banned them because of the UL approved issue.
 
Correction. The requirement is for a twist lock per Cruising World.
 
Our Marina does not allow them but at the same time does not enforce the rule
 
I can see a requirement for positive locking of the connection. But twistlock is not the only way to do it. The SmartPlug has positive locking and IMO is way better than the twistlock style connector. I replaced the boat side connectors on all my cords with SmartPlugs after failure of a twist connector took out my battery charger. On the east coast I have never been questioned about the shore power connectors (so far anyway).
 
I can see a requirement for positive locking of the connection. But twistlock is not the only way to do it. The SmartPlug has positive locking and IMO is way better than the twistlock style connector. I replaced the boat side connectors on all my cords with SmartPlugs after failure of a twist connector took out my battery charger. On the east coast I have never been questioned about the shore power connectors (so far anyway).

I agree completely. The problem is in the specification, not the product. SmartPlug meets all of the performance requirements of UL, just not these design aspects. Plus they have other certifications. It's a shame.
 
While posdible to burn up any plug including smartplugs...

the 50A 125/250V plug design is vastly superior to the 30A version.

if 30s were similar, the smart plug, while having bells and whistles wouldnt be nearly as popular if I had to guess.
 
Does anyone know how the Marinco EEL plug retention works? It's Marinco's answer to SmartPlug, and I wonder if it has UL certification.
 
While posdible to burn up any plug including smartplugs...

the 50A 125/250V plug design is vastly superior to the 30A version.

if 30s were similar, the smart plug, while having bells and whistles wouldnt be nearly as popular if I had to guess.



I agree. The 30amp plug is downright scary if you look at it closely.
 
Does anyone know how the Marinco EEL plug retention works? It's Marinco's answer to SmartPlug, and I wonder if it has UL certification.



My 50a/125v shore power cord is a Marinco EEL.

It is actually pretty nice. The plug is the same as any 50a/125v plug. However, there is a clamp that surrounds the plug. To insert the plug, you squeeze the clamp which opens the jaws. Then you insert and twist like any 50a/125v plug. You then release the clamp and the jaws grip the threaded portion of the receptacle. There is a thumb lock that slides between the clamp to hold it in place.

It isn’t any better than the threaded ring locks on a standard plug, and actually isn’t as strong. However, it is much more convenient so it gets used every time the shore power is plugged in.

I like it, I wouldn’t have one other than I got a screaming good death on my short 50a/125v cord set.
 
Full disclosure: I am Marine Electrician that is also a dealer for SmartPlug.

Regarding a marina only permitting UL listed shore power equipment:
The marina owner can require anything that they want; e.g., only white shore power cords or only green ⅝"double braid dock lines. I have no argument with that.

Because it has been ubiquitous for decades, many professionals and laypeople believe that the only certification authority is Underwriters Laboratories. The process of UL listing is difficult to understand by the layperson, very expensive to achieve by a new manufacturer and, IMHO, is not the "gold standard" that it was in the past.

Other independent, third party testing and certification laboratories have come on line, primarily as competition to UL.

The standards writing organizations such as National Fire Protection Association (National Electrical Code), the American Boat and Yacht Council; ISO do not usually call out a specific certification agency but will generally require certification by a third party. Here are some examples:

NFPA
NFPA 303, “Fire Protection Standard for Marinas and Boatyards”:
5.2 Listed or Labeled. All electrical materials, devices, appliances, fittings, and other equipment shall be listed or labeled by a qualified testing agency and shall be installed and connected in accordance with listing requirements and/or manufacturer’s instructions.

NFPA 70 (National Electrical Code); 555.19(A)(4)(a)
Receptacles rated 30 amperes and 50 amperes shall be of the locking and grounding type.

ISO
ISO 13297 3.14
shore power appliance inlet
fitting designed for mounting on a craft, of a shrouded male type, to connect to the female connector on the craft end of the shore power cable in order to make the electrical connection for transmission of electrical energy

ABYC
ABYC E-11 Figure 12
Shows the standard NEMA configurations for shore power inlets and cables
ABYC E-11 Figure 13
Shows the UL 1686 configurations for pin and sleeve shore power inlets and cables

Regarding the shore power inlet, ABYC E-11.4.29
Shore Power Inlet -the fitting designed for mounting on the boat, of a reverse service type, requiring a female connector on the shore power cable in order to make the electrical connection

and;
11.6.2.2.1.3 The shore power cable shall be flexible cord with the minimum properties of Type SOW, STW, STOW, SEOW, or STOOW, and shall be suitable for outdoor use. The shore connection end of this cable shall be fitted with a locking and grounding type plug with the required number of poles and shall comply with Article 555 of the National Electrical Code (see FIGURE 12 and TABLE VII-A).
EXCEPTION: Pin and sleeve devices in accordance with FIGURE 13.

Note that the SmartPlug configuration is not included in Figures 12 or 13 because the SmartPlug design is patented and it is the ABYC position that patented equipment will not be included in any of their standards.

And finally (is this horse dead yet?), OSHA requires many types of equipment; e.g. shore power cords and inlets, to be tested and certified/listed by a Nationally Recognized Testing Laboratory (NRTL) such as Underwriters Laboratories (UL). (Emphasis added.). The NRTL that has tested and certified the SmartPlug line is Intertek Testing Services NA (formerly ETL).

So, the marina may require all anchors must be chrome plated CQRs, but requiring that shore power cables and the boat inlets must be UL rated is simply not technically sound reasoning.
 
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Awesome, fact-filled post, CharlieJ!
 
The process of UL listing is difficult to understand by the layperson, very expensive to achieve by a new manufacturer and, IMHO, is not the "gold standard" that it was in the past.

So if you ever wondered why companies that make electrical gear (like audio gear as an example) use those "wall wart" style of power supplies this is exactly the reason. They can upgrade, modify, or create many different pieces of gear and have them all use the same external power supply with only a single UL certification for it.

The more you know! :thumb:
 
I started this tread and appreciate all the great comments from everyone. CharlieJ gave us all great information regarding testing and approval. Since Smart Plug without getting theirs hands on my plug pasted all the blame on me. I therefore cut the housing off the plug and found the L1, L2 and Neutral
all badly burned. I noted a small burn mark on the shore power cord boat/female end on L1 on day three of our cruise last October. Concerned that we were only three days into a eighteen day trip I ordered a replacement to be shipped to my next stop. Nothing new happened during the balance of the cruise and over the next three months. In early March I noticed the bad burn marks on the cord and replaced it. The interesting thing is that my boat has a very bad imbalance between L1 and L2. and the greater load is on L2. After cutting away the housing I was able to see that the space between the female blade was different on L1 than L2. This could easily be caused by wiggling the plug to remove the plug and cord from the boat. Since the neutral was also burned this means that L1 must have dropped off and the full amperage of L2 was seen on the neutral. I can say that the original plug was a very loose fit and once the cover was raised and the jaws opened the plug would release. The new plug/replacement requires about 250 lb's to get the two parts together so that the jaws will lock. I have also coated the blades with ox-gard and will continue to do so. Remember my old 50 amp twist plug was thirty years old but showed no sigh of high amperage. It just didn't want to stay attached to my boat. I will continue to monitor my smart plug but go back to a twist plug in a heart beat.
 
Remember my old 50 amp twist plug was thirty years old but showed no sigh of high amperage. It just didn't want to stay attached to my boat.

I'm curious why your old 50A twist lock would not stay attached? It sounds like the locking mechanism had worn out after 30 years? When working properly, they are very secure, at least in my experience.
 
Full disclosure: I am Marine Electrician that is also a dealer for SmartPlug.
9(A)(4)(a)
R
n accordance with FIGURE 13.



So, the marina may require all anchors must be chrome plated CQRs, but requiring that shore power cables and the boat inlets must be UL rated is simply not technically sound reasoning.

Thanks Charlie I could not agree more with your last sentence
 
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