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Old 01-11-2014, 06:20 PM   #21
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Greetings,
Mr. S. The toothed belt is NOT meant to run on the gear (ring gear for starter I suspect) on the flywheel. The belt, in spite of the "teeth" is meant to run in the smooth pulley section of the flywheel where, in fact, it appears to be.
As far as the shim goes, tough call from pictures only.
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Old 01-11-2014, 06:50 PM   #22
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Thanks RT - saved me from barking up the wrong tree. From that angle it doesn't look quite so out of whack.
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Old 01-11-2014, 07:18 PM   #23
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Greetings,
Mr. S. The majority of us have previously enjoyed vessels (read used/abused or not so much). I would think it unheard of that any vessel has escaped the attentions of so-called experts/rocket scientists/I heard from someone's/this should work and good enough's. That being said, everyone wants to put things right without falling into the DPO (damn previous owner) category.
A certain amount of expertise can be acquired by self education and just doing with appropriate reference material at hand and tasks accomplished in a safe, economical and timely manner so keep those questions coming BUT keep VERY MUCH in mind free advice given to you on the internet is worth exactly what you pay for it.
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Old 01-11-2014, 07:36 PM   #24
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Thanks RT - I have learned that lesson from years of internet motorcycle maintenance. One reason I did take a Power Squadron electrical course. The internet helps when it comes down to the short strokes of a particular situation - such as the belt question above, and other useful tips I have been getting. I do try to get multiple inputs so it becomes easier to separate wheat from chaff. Whatever chaff is.
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Old 01-11-2014, 07:44 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunset View Post
I took a closer look at the alternator today while trying to trace various wires. Am I correct in thinking that the belt is intended to run off the toothed section of the fly? Because the belt is certainly well-toothed itself. I direct the reader's attention to the lower right foreground where the mounting foot of the alt is attached to the green mounting arm of the engine. There is a great huge square shim there.

Seems like - remove the shim??
No, the belt does not run on the ring gear as has been said.
The mounting foot I was refering to is on the opposite side of the alternator (180 degrees) from where you are looking. What you are looking at is the belt tensioner bracket, and yes the huge "shim" is not necessary or good, but it is not the problem either. I need to find or draw you a sketch of what I am talking about with the mounting bushings on Delco holding the alternator parallel.
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Old 01-11-2014, 08:06 PM   #26
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It's just not accessible under there; I can't even figure out the cable / wire routing as it/they wind their ways around the alternator in and out of sheaths.

However I was able to track 4 after-installed rogue circuits: bilge pump/switch/float; VHF; Depth sounder.
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Old 01-11-2014, 08:31 PM   #27
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Greetings,
Mr. B. I agree with your comment re: "the huge "shim" is not necessary or good..." but we don't know what the mounting foot looks like nor even if the correct alternator is in fact being used. Could be a jerry rigged mount which necessitated that big shim. Looks like the bracket is at the end of the adjustment as well. Lots going on that has to be fixed. In an ideal install the bracket should look something like this.


Mr. S. You say you can't see anything but you're going to have to remove the alternator, adjusting bracket and mounting foot the whole works in any case and start afresh at which point you will be able to see what's going on. Don't forget to disconnect your battery and label all your wires. Fun eh?
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Old 01-11-2014, 08:31 PM   #28
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Quote:
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It's just not accessible under there; I can't even figure out the cable / wire routing as it/they wind their ways around the alternator in and out of sheaths.

However I was able to track 4 after-installed rogue circuits: bilge pump/switch/float; VHF; Depth sounder.
Here is the sketch on what should be happening under your alternator. To get at it, you may have to remove the tensioner bracket (which needs to be delt with anyway) then remove the belt, then swing the alternator over/down to see the mounting foot.

Good picture Firefly
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Old 01-11-2014, 10:17 PM   #29
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OK thanks guys. I guess I'll bite the bullet and dig in there. I removed the batteries today in the hope of tracking the blue wire that disappears beneath the batt box - no luck in that regard so far. But at least the batteries are out and all battery conductors labelled.

I'll have to wait for the temps to get above 5C again . . .
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Old 01-12-2014, 12:22 PM   #30
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[QUOTE=Sunset;202891]I see the benefit of having that flexibility but my system is pretty basic so for now I going to go with the single on/off as above pictured.

Keeping your house and start systems separate will give you greater reliability/piece of mind while your out on the water and can be easily accomplished. I rewired my 1982 28' Carver several years ago using this panel. Simple, takes very little space. House battery wired to the "House" breaker giving you needed protection. Start battery wired directly to the two position switch eliminating the unreliable off-1-2-both switch. You also get the emergency crossover combining both systems for emergency start. Great project, look forward to seeing your final product!

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Old 02-09-2014, 04:49 PM   #31
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I thought I's share a pic of my workshop. I've managed to find all the "house" circuits except for the clump that is buried inside the window structure for nav, anchor and wipers. Once I cut the VOM lead and spliced in a long wire with an alligator clip the results began to flow. I hadn't realized that I was going to get a resistance reading on just about everything I touched, but the true continuity is the only one that drops from 1 right down to zero. Anyhow, here's the shop, c/w heater now installed:
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