110v Electrical Recepticle for engine room

[JESSEDIVER49]

What type/brand 110v electrical receptacle works well and safely in an engine room. I need to add one. thanks.

 

[kchace]

What type/brand 110v electrical receptacle works well and safely in an engine room. I need to add one. thanks.

I have two standard 120v outlets in the engine room and I don't see why standard safety practices including GFCI protection wouldn't be sufficient. If one is concerned about water spraying from a broken hose then using an outdoor box and outlet cover should do it.

Ken

 

[caltexflanc]

I have two standard 120v outlets in the engine room and I don't see why standard safety practices including GFCI protection wouldn't be sufficient. If one is concerned about water spraying from a broken hose then using an outdoor box and outlet cover should do it.

Ken

This is exactly what I did. You can get covers that protect the outlet even if something is plugged into it (in my case, the block heaters).

 

[tiltrider1]

The only thing I have to add, make sure you have a very good ground wire. It is not inconceivable that some one might drop an electric tool into bilge water while standing in the same water.

 

[STB]

I've got the same. GFCIs plus outdoor boxes from Home Depot. I swapped for GFCIs and added the boxes when I bought the boat.

I did the same in my last boat, where I also pulled
out the 110v lighting that was there and added 12v. I didnt want to back into a 110v incandescent and get zapped while checking on things underway.

 

[O C Diver]

If they are on their own separate circuit, GFI with an outdoor cover. If they are on existing circuit, most have a GFI as the first outlet and everything else downstream is protected by the first outlet. If a GFI exists upstream, use a standard outlet.

Ted

 

[wkearney99]

The outlets I've got in my Eastbay have a flip-open weatherproof cover. They're made by Vimar.

https://www.imtra.com/lighting-vimar-switching-idea-plates-ip55-covers.htm

What is it you'll be powering?

 

[STB]

When down in engine room, I'd hate to have to drop what I am doing to go back up to fix a trip, nuisance or otherwise.

I know it is cheaper to have just one GFCI, but, personally, not my preference if it isnt in arm's reach.

 

[JESSEDIVER49]

110v recepticle in engine room

Thanks for the intel. As for what I am powering - this may sound a bit unconventional but I have a 1984 GB 42 with the original Grunert refrigeration unit that still works really well (cooling) but the controls do not work properly. When it's on, it runs continuously 24-7. I see no solution to replacing or repairing the old temperature control system. Since the boxes are so well insulated I decided to put the refrigeration cooling on a timer controller (instead of a temperature controller). That requires adding the receptacle to put timer between the compressor and power supply. I understand the disadvantages of time control vs temperature and I'll eventually replace with a Seafrost or similar but I'm hoping to get a couple more seasons using the old system because it still does cool really well.

 

[STB]

So, most of what I know about those systems I've read in forums. Aren't the thermostats accessible inside of each of the refridge and freezer compartments?

If so, can't it just be replaced with a generic 2-wire line-level thermostat from eBay for $6-$20. Just find one with the right temp range for you and rated to at least 120VAC (most are rated to 220-250VAC). If you cant get the transducer wire (temp sensor) routed to the original place easily enough for you, just route it somewhere out of the way and tape it there?

 

[FF]

"When it's on, it runs continuously 24-7. I see no solution to replacing or repairing the old temperature control system."

Many of the older Eutetic systems were controlled by reaching a certain suction .

This assured the entire plate was frozen , which may not be the case if temperature is the control.

This is the standard for most commercial refrigeration , so a visit from a tech that does store work, not boat work should solve te problem , although it could simply be a valve in the wrong position.


https://www.industrialcontrolsonline.com/training/online/uses-refrigeration-low-pressure-controls

 

[JESSEDIVER49]

110v recepticle in engine room

FF, I wish it was that easy but does not seem so. Yes, each box, freezer and refrig have individual thermostats. The freezer thermostat has been replaced already. The control problem appears to be in the control system itself which is ancient. It appears to me the controller sees a setpoint reached but does not turn off the compressor. I have not found anyone who will replace the control system only for one of these old units. The fix I am told is to replace the entire compressor and evaporator units along with its control system.
thanks for your time to comment

 

[wkearney99]

The fix I am told is to replace the entire compressor and evaporator units along with its control system.

Isn't that the way, all too often? Though, I'm betting it makes some sense to fix the range of pieces versus racking up labor hours hitting it one component at a time.

Any luck searching online for the parts? Or an online discussion of that specific system?

If not, what sort of timer were you considering? I'd want to be cautious about using generic socket-plug-in Intermatic sort of timers in the engine room due to the marine environment conditions.

 

[STB]

What specific model is this? Is a schematic online? Is there one on a sticker or folded up in the control bix or taped to than top, etc?

 

[ben2go]

A good electronics repair person could probably fix the original controller and cheaply. I had a modern flat screen repaired for $50. The guy wasn't going to charge me as the part was only a couple dollars and it took less than 15 minutes to repair. I insisted on payment. He's a reoccurring acquaintance in my life and has always been first in line to help.

 

[Gaylord Ballard]

In an engine room where gasoline engines are used you MUST use explosion proof fixtures whether they are outlets or lighting. You can get these at Home Depot and they are cheap. Make sure that you use a GFCI duplex outlet. Electrical regulations require that fixtures are connected with conduit. In some areas these must be fitted with poured fittings in which you pour a liquid material that hardens and blocks the conduit against vapors that my creep into them.Of course these outlets are covered. If you have diesel power and no gas you can cut a few corners but technically its not legal but diesel has a very low flash point that has almost no explosive properties. At a minimum under diesel conditions I would use the GFCI and explosion proof boxes with covers but personally I would skip the conduit connections. Make sure you have a good ground in all cases.

 

[CaptTom]

One point on GFCI outlets: Some of them have a small pilot light that's always lit. This will keep your inverter ticking over even if everything else is off.

 

[psneeld]

Depends on what threshold current your inverter senses.