Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 07-08-2019, 04:52 PM   #1
Senior Member
 
JESSEDIVER49's Avatar
 
City: Houston, TX
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Good Vibrations
Vessel Model: Grand Banks Classic 42
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 107
110v Electrical Recepticle for engine room

What type/brand 110v electrical receptacle works well and safely in an engine room. I need to add one. thanks.
__________________
Advertisement

JESSEDIVER49 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2019, 05:22 PM   #2
Guru
 
kchace's Avatar
 
City: Brookline, NH
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Blue Heaven
Vessel Model: Albin 43 classic double cabin, twin 135 Lehmans
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,474
Quote:
Originally Posted by JESSEDIVER49 View Post
What type/brand 110v electrical receptacle works well and safely in an engine room. I need to add one. thanks.
I have two standard 120v outlets in the engine room and I don't see why standard safety practices including GFCI protection wouldn't be sufficient. If one is concerned about water spraying from a broken hose then using an outdoor box and outlet cover should do it.

Ken
__________________

kchace is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2019, 06:04 PM   #3
Guru
 
caltexflanc's Avatar
 
City: North Carolina for now
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Small Incentive
Vessel Model: Boston Whaler 130 Sport
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 4,889
Quote:
Originally Posted by kchace View Post
I have two standard 120v outlets in the engine room and I don't see why standard safety practices including GFCI protection wouldn't be sufficient. If one is concerned about water spraying from a broken hose then using an outdoor box and outlet cover should do it.

Ken
This is exactly what I did. You can get covers that protect the outlet even if something is plugged into it (in my case, the block heaters).
__________________
George

"There's the Right Way, the Wrong Way, and what some guy says he's gotten away with"
caltexflanc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2019, 06:34 PM   #4
Guru
 
tiltrider1's Avatar
 
City: Seattle
Country: USA
Vessel Name: AZZURRA
Vessel Model: Ocean Alexander 54
Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 1,319
The only thing I have to add, make sure you have a very good ground wire. It is not inconceivable that some one might drop an electric tool into bilge water while standing in the same water.
tiltrider1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2019, 06:43 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
City: Clearwater, FL
Country: United States
Vessel Name: Seas the Bay
Vessel Model: Hardin
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 290
I've got the same. GFCIs plus outdoor boxes from Home Depot. I swapped for GFCIs and added the boxes when I bought the boat.

I did the same in my last boat, where I also pulled
out the 110v lighting that was there and added 12v. I didnt want to back into a 110v incandescent and get zapped while checking on things underway.
gkesden is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2019, 06:54 PM   #6
Guru
 
O C Diver's Avatar
 
City: Fort Myers, FL... Summers in Crisfield, MD
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Slow Hand
Vessel Model: Cherubini Independence 45
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 7,175
If they are on their own separate circuit, GFI with an outdoor cover. If they are on existing circuit, most have a GFI as the first outlet and everything else downstream is protected by the first outlet. If a GFI exists upstream, use a standard outlet.

Ted
__________________
Blog: mvslowhand.com
I'm tired of fast moves, I've got a slow groove, on my mind.....
I want to spend some time, Not come and go in a heated rush.....
"Slow Hand" by The Pointer Sisters
O C Diver is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2019, 06:57 PM   #7
Guru
 
wkearney99's Avatar
 
City: Bethesda, MD
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Solstice
Vessel Model: Grand Banks 47 Eastbay FB
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 737
The outlets I've got in my Eastbay have a flip-open weatherproof cover. They're made by Vimar.

https://www.imtra.com/lighting-vimar...p55-covers.htm

What is it you'll be powering?
__________________
-- Bill Kearney
2005 Eastbay 47 FB - Solstice
wkearney99 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2019, 07:29 PM   #8
Senior Member
 
City: Clearwater, FL
Country: United States
Vessel Name: Seas the Bay
Vessel Model: Hardin
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 290
When down in engine room, I'd hate to have to drop what I am doing to go back up to fix a trip, nuisance or otherwise.

I know it is cheaper to have just one GFCI, but, personally, not my preference if it isnt in arm's reach.
gkesden is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2019, 09:37 PM   #9
Senior Member
 
JESSEDIVER49's Avatar
 
City: Houston, TX
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Good Vibrations
Vessel Model: Grand Banks Classic 42
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 107
110v recepticle in engine room

Thanks for the intel. As for what I am powering - this may sound a bit unconventional but I have a 1984 GB 42 with the original Grunert refrigeration unit that still works really well (cooling) but the controls do not work properly. When it's on, it runs continuously 24-7. I see no solution to replacing or repairing the old temperature control system. Since the boxes are so well insulated I decided to put the refrigeration cooling on a timer controller (instead of a temperature controller). That requires adding the receptacle to put timer between the compressor and power supply. I understand the disadvantages of time control vs temperature and I'll eventually replace with a Seafrost or similar but I'm hoping to get a couple more seasons using the old system because it still does cool really well.
JESSEDIVER49 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2019, 03:00 AM   #10
Senior Member
 
City: Clearwater, FL
Country: United States
Vessel Name: Seas the Bay
Vessel Model: Hardin
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 290
So, most of what I know about those systems I've read in forums. Aren't the thermostats accessible inside of each of the refridge and freezer compartments?

If so, can't it just be replaced with a generic 2-wire line-level thermostat from eBay for $6-$20. Just find one with the right temp range for you and rated to at least 120VAC (most are rated to 220-250VAC). If you cant get the transducer wire (temp sensor) routed to the original place easily enough for you, just route it somewhere out of the way and tape it there?
gkesden is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2019, 05:30 AM   #11
FF
Guru
 
FF's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 19,165
"When it's on, it runs continuously 24-7. I see no solution to replacing or repairing the old temperature control system."

Many of the older Eutetic systems were controlled by reaching a certain suction .

This assured the entire plate was frozen , which may not be the case if temperature is the control.

This is the standard for most commercial refrigeration , so a visit from a tech that does store work, not boat work should solve te problem , although it could simply be a valve in the wrong position.


https://www.industrialcontrolsonline...ssure-controls
FF is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2019, 07:05 AM   #12
Senior Member
 
JESSEDIVER49's Avatar
 
City: Houston, TX
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Good Vibrations
Vessel Model: Grand Banks Classic 42
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 107
110v recepticle in engine room

FF, I wish it was that easy but does not seem so. Yes, each box, freezer and refrig have individual thermostats. The freezer thermostat has been replaced already. The control problem appears to be in the control system itself which is ancient. It appears to me the controller sees a setpoint reached but does not turn off the compressor. I have not found anyone who will replace the control system only for one of these old units. The fix I am told is to replace the entire compressor and evaporator units along with its control system.
thanks for your time to comment
JESSEDIVER49 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2019, 07:57 AM   #13
Guru
 
wkearney99's Avatar
 
City: Bethesda, MD
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Solstice
Vessel Model: Grand Banks 47 Eastbay FB
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 737
Quote:
Originally Posted by JESSEDIVER49 View Post
The fix I am told is to replace the entire compressor and evaporator units along with its control system.
Isn't that the way, all too often? Though, I'm betting it makes some sense to fix the range of pieces versus racking up labor hours hitting it one component at a time.

Any luck searching online for the parts? Or an online discussion of that specific system?

If not, what sort of timer were you considering? I'd want to be cautious about using generic socket-plug-in Intermatic sort of timers in the engine room due to the marine environment conditions.
__________________
-- Bill Kearney
2005 Eastbay 47 FB - Solstice
wkearney99 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2019, 11:44 AM   #14
Senior Member
 
City: Clearwater, FL
Country: United States
Vessel Name: Seas the Bay
Vessel Model: Hardin
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 290
What specific model is this? Is a schematic online? Is there one on a sticker or folded up in the control bix or taped to than top, etc?
gkesden is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2019, 12:17 PM   #15
Guru
 
ben2go's Avatar
 
City: Upstate,SC
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Caroliner
Vessel Model: 28' Spira San Miguel
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 2,038
A good electronics repair person could probably fix the original controller and cheaply. I had a modern flat screen repaired for $50. The guy wasn't going to charge me as the part was only a couple dollars and it took less than 15 minutes to repair. I insisted on payment. He's a reoccurring acquaintance in my life and has always been first in line to help.
__________________

__________________
What a pain in the transom.

ben2go is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off





All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:01 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2006 - 2012