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Old 10-13-2016, 08:30 AM   #21
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A good running used engine with gear around 150hp goes for $5-15k depending on model, age and condition. For another $5-10k it can be stripped in a shop and completely inspected/refreshed/rebuilt.

I'd budget 15k tops. Plenty of time to shop. Go for a larger displacement slower turning engine, and don't be afraid to get a six, they are smoother.
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Old 10-13-2016, 10:19 AM   #22
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In the 75 hp range take a look at the Beta 75 and the Phasor P4-70-3300. Both are based on Kubota diesels. Based on prices I got back in 2010-2011 for engines in this size range, I think you will find new engines with transmissions for under $20K with the Phasor engines being a bit cheaper. Both of the engines mentioned above are rated 75 hp at 2,600 rpms, which would let you cruise at 7-7.5 knots at 2,000 rpms or a bit less (depends on prop). Both engines are 4 cylinder engines in the 3.3 liter range.
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Old 10-13-2016, 12:22 PM   #23
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This is the price list I got for the Beta Engines
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Old 10-13-2016, 12:41 PM   #24
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Hope this is not to far off the subject. How do I know what percentage of engine load I am cruising at? I'm confused on this, and concerned I'm under loading the engine. Is this a percent of RPM or HP?
My boat FD 14 tons, I cruise at 2100 and continuos is 3600 and full redline 3800. Engine is 62hp and I cruise at 6 knots and get real good fuel mileage.
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Old 10-13-2016, 01:23 PM   #25
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Always surprised at how low a hp Buehler specs for his boats, and I know there have been comments that his specs are too low.
How about a Ford Lehman? Rock solid, easy too work on, good support, easy to find used ones.
Building a wood DD is a big project. Keep in mind that the market for wood boats is small. The value of a wood DD is considerably less than the identical boat in steel.
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Old 10-13-2016, 01:41 PM   #26
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load depends on propping. If you can reach and are limited to rated rpm then it is assumed that the engine is producing rated hp at that point. At lower rpms the load reduces along the propeller load curve. Most engin specs include one. That will also show fuel used at that prop load. If you dont have a prop load curve youcan guess using this equation for prop load.

(RPM/Fullrpm)^2.5=percent load.
the exponent 2.5 is a commonly used prop curve estimate. 2.7 and even 3 are used by some makers. try it for yourself and see that there is little difference between 2.5 and 2,7 exponents.

e.g.
(2000/2600)^2.5=.51 or 51% load

Just plug the quation using your numbers into google
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Old 10-13-2016, 01:47 PM   #27
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low HP is fine for perfect conditions but add wind on the bow or choppy head seas and more HP is required to maintain speed.
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Old 10-13-2016, 03:28 PM   #28
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Hope this is not to far off the subject. How do I know what percentage of engine load I am cruising at? I'm confused on this, and concerned I'm under loading the engine. Is this a percent of RPM or HP?
JD defines the load as follows:
Quote:
Load factor is the actual fuel burned over a period of time divided by the full-power fuel consumption for the same period of time. For example, if an engine burns 160 liters of fuel during an eight-hour run, and the full-power fuel consumption is 60 liters per hour, the load factor is 160 liters / (60 liters per hour x 8 hours) = 33.3 percent.
Later,
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Old 10-13-2016, 04:30 PM   #29
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Hope this is not to far off the subject. How do I know what percentage of engine load I am cruising at? I'm confused on this, and concerned I'm under loading the engine. Is this a percent of RPM or HP?
My boat FD 14 tons, I cruise at 2100 and continuos is 3600 and full redline 3800. Engine is 62hp and I cruise at 6 knots and get real good fuel mileage.
%load is a bit confusing. Is it calculated from the rated power of the engine at full throttle or is it calculated from the maximum power available at the rpms you are operating at? The two references will give quite different results. I prefer to calculated %load from the power available at the operating rpms read from the engine power curve. To do that to easiest method is to use fuel burn. The engine's fuel consumption curve will give you a good estimate of the relationship between fuel burn per hour and horsepower. If you then measure your fuel burn and divide it by the maximum fuel burn at the operating rpms you will get % power.
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Old 10-13-2016, 08:23 PM   #30
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Traveling or shipping from Seattle to NY is a pretty long haul. Both for delivery and warranty/parts service.
Ski,
A good proportion of Yukon's customers are as far away in Alaska and they are very good at supporting them. Few of their customers are close by.
The east coast may be different ... I don't know but I doubt it.
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Old 10-13-2016, 09:05 PM   #31
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As I recommended in a previous post... Call Greg Light at Cascade Engine Center. Nuff said!

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He retired earlier this year - Ask for Mike Miller over at Cascade.
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Old 10-14-2016, 10:18 AM   #32
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Thanks for the info guys, that's a good start.
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Old 10-14-2016, 11:04 AM   #33
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Thanks for the info guys, that's a good start.

There was a local guy here that used to build steel trawlers.. I believe he build 8 boats, his hulls were really nice.. the rest of the boat was fitted out a bit sparse. Anyway he always installed a specific series of 6 cyl. CAT engines in all his builds, this engine was used in motor graders and could be had and rebuilt quite reasonably (according to him). If I recall correctly he said he also liked the ability to run the engine as a 4cyl. if one had to due to failure of 1 or 2 cylinders. Look into marinizing your own diesel, there is a UK company called Lansing marine that actually sells kits to do this for different motors.
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Old 10-14-2016, 11:59 AM   #34
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HOLLYWOOD,
interesting comment about making a four out of a six. How would that be different w this Cat engine than any other? Do they have a non-traditional firing order? Re twin FL powered trawlers running extremely underloaded I've often thought taking the obvious parts out of the engines one could turn them into very heavy three cyl engines.
Sounds like the above re the Cat engines is for only temporary use. Still like to know how it's done.
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Old 10-14-2016, 02:05 PM   #35
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I'd think just about any engine would run minus a cylinder or two unless there was some type of catastrophic damage. No engine will run minus a cylinder if you've thrown a rod, or pulled a head off a valve and you've got stuff banging around.
Any engine with a common injection pump would be a mess running minus cylinders.
I guess if were looking for something to do that specifically you'd look for an engine with compression releases and separate injection pumps.
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Old 10-14-2016, 03:57 PM   #36
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%load is a bit confusing. Is it calculated from the rated power of the engine at full throttle or is it calculated from the maximum power available at the rpms you are operating at? The two references will give quite different results. I prefer to calculated %load from the power available at the operating rpms read from the engine power curve. To do that to easiest method is to use fuel burn. The engine's fuel consumption curve will give you a good estimate of the relationship between fuel burn per hour and horsepower. If you then measure your fuel burn and divide it by the maximum fuel burn at the operating rpms you will get % power.

Load factor is calculated based on rated max power.
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Old 10-19-2016, 01:05 AM   #37
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There is a used deere 4045 in the seattle craigslist for 4K.
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Old 11-13-2016, 06:26 PM   #38
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You might also look into Cummins Remanuactured (Recon) engines which come with a factory new engine warranty. I re-powered with 6bt 210hp Recons a few years and have been completely happy with them. Cummins has a smaller 4bt engine which might fit your needs in terms of horsepower.
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Old 11-13-2016, 07:11 PM   #39
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Thanks Ken, I would love a Cummings but I haven't found any in the 75-125 HP range. Seems like they're mostly into making big boy engines.
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Old 11-13-2016, 08:21 PM   #40
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Cummins makes a 4bt 150hp, you can also get the smoother 6b as a non turbo, about 120hp. May need to look on their commercial engine listings to find it.

The 6bt 210 has more power than you need, but run at low power settings the turbo does basically nothing so no real advantage to going with the non-turbo. Both the turbo and non turbo will do the same thing making 50hp. And the 210 is easy to find in "reman" dress, less $$$ than most anything out there.

Deere a good option too.
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