Coot 35

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Don - Good luck. Chose wisely.


Any boat of any material that was not initially well constructed, properly maintained or built of not best products does hold potential to become a big financial drain... as well as an emotional weight... not to mention possiably a life ending experience during use.
 
It's the same boat.

OK, sorry to learn that. The owner of the Singapore COOT has be ill for some time and I guess maintenance has been neglected.

As Mark wrote, steel boats require quick action when ever above water line coating are compromised. Sealed quickly to prevent migrating bonding problems. Even use nail polish if that's all you have until proper repairs can be made.

Under water the zincs will protect any exposed steel. A local owner left his boarding ladder in the water for a week, it was thickly plated with zinc when he raised it.
 
IMO... One of the primary reasons so many "water contact" boat parts get affected by underwater electricity corrosion is due to keeping the boat hooked up to the dock electric line. Boat is primarially isolated as long as there is no bonding to shore power or any other metal tie to dock. Also, internal batts should be kept isolated from the boat's interior structure by insulated batt box as well as full cut off via Perko switch, similar switch or other means. Just make sure if you are going to isolate everything this way that your boat does not leak... or blub, blub, blub may occur.
 
IMO... One of the primary reasons so many "water contact" boat parts get affected by underwater electricity corrosion is due to keeping the boat hooked up to the dock electric line. Boat is primarially isolated as long as there is no bonding to shore power or any other metal tie to dock. Also, internal batts should be kept isolated from the boat's interior structure by insulated batt box as well as full cut off via Perko switch, similar switch or other means. Just make sure if you are going to isolate everything this way that your boat does not leak... or blub, blub, blub may occur.

While I do not disagree with you, permit me to ask you a question.
Leaving the boat without shore power, ignoring the lack a A/C and the probability of mold, add in a couple of solar panels to keep the battery charged and bilge pumps "available", the boat should electronically "float" forever?
Why not put it in dry storage and never worry about it electrically?
 
While I do not disagree with you, permit me to ask you a question.
Leaving the boat without shore power, ignoring the lack a A/C and the probability of mold, add in a couple of solar panels to keep the battery charged and bilge pumps "available", the boat should electronically "float" forever?
Why not put it in dry storage and never worry about it electrically?

Under covered roof, such as our boat is, solar panels are no use during berth days.

Mold is not a problem in area we dock. Breeze that blows keeps interior refreshed via vents for that purpose.

There is of course a chance of sinking due to leak that occurs. That is why I mention to be sure boat does not at all leak. Item I forgot to mention in post #34 is that I have one of three bilge pumps hot wired to fairly large house bank; it has float switch incase water were to seep in. I've no proof, but if need be I feel that one pump would go many, many cycles before batts went dead. In boating since late 1950's my family and I have not ever had a boat sink nor anywhere near sink while keeping them all isolated from docks. By doing as such we have little to no electrolysis corrosion problems.

In worst case scenario, that our boat were to unexpectedly begin slightly leaking... and the hard wired bilge pump were needing to occasionally kick on... some person at the dock would hopefully report the circumstance of pump occasionally cycling or we would simply be paying pay a visit, as usual... other wise eventual blub, blub, blub would occur. Also, I would like to say, that I always open hatches to engines more than once while at boat and never see any water in bilge. We keep her very dry! If I do ever see water I would find the source or haul the boat. That's why I pay insurance! :thumb: BTW, I, nor any person in my family have ever had any sort of boating insurance claim. For over 60 years insurance companies have been making make money hand over fist off of us! :eek: ;)

Dry storage would be great; with simply a telephone call to get the yard to launch the boat just before we arrive to play! We live 100 miles from the marina; 2 hr. trip! However, we do not have that capability for our 21K lb.[when loaded] boat. Wish we did. If so, I'd love to keep her out of the water in covered storage in wait for our next visit.

We leave tomorrow am to see her; getting ready for summer and all the fun that time of year enables. This two day weekend trip I plan installing new windlass and checking out recent work performed on the 1977, 7.5 kW Kohler gen set... I understand that is running perfectly again. :popcorn:
 
Art, I have non-boaters ask why my bilge pumps run all the time.
I told them, "That is the seawater from the A/C pump."
See, a little gentle education and or enlightenment can go a long way for boat safety.
I do show them where the bilge pump overboards are, too.
And I thank them for their interest.

I will be leaving the boat for a couple of months. I shall, as always, leave all hull valve open and shore power connected. The water hose will be on the boat but, off at the pedestal.
Other folks shut all the hull valves. Everyone runs their boats different ways.
The only things I shut off are the F/W pump and the head and the hot water heater.

When I get back, I will see if the dock lines are tight before I step aboard. LOL
Yup, that's why we have insurance.
I do have 3 folks watching the boat too. Plus the dock boys.
 
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Art, I have non-boaters ask why my bilge pumps run all the time.
I told them, "That is the seawater from the A/C pump."
See, a little gentle education and or enlightenment can go a long way for boat safety.
I do show them where the bilge pump overboards are, too.
And I thank them for their interest.

I will be leaving the boat for a couple of months. I shall, as always, leave all hull valve open and shore power connected. The water hose will be on the boat but, off at the pedestal.
Other folks shut all the hull valves. Everyone runs their boats different ways.
The only things I shut off are the F/W pump and the head and the hot water heater.

When I get back, I will see if the dock lines are tight before I step aboard. LOL
Yup, that's why we have insurance.
I do have 3 folks watching the boat too. Plus the dock boys.

Yup - Different strokes fer different folks!

BTW, I never hook boat to shore hose, for any reason, at any time. Water we use comes from tanks aboard and onboard water pump pressure. Fill tanks as needed. Seen one during my years of boating sunk from malfunction of shore water pressure; have read about others. Not that shore pressure water isn't fun to use... just not applicable for me. Paranoia strikes deep! :popcorn: :rofl:
 
Yup - Different strokes fer different folks!

BTW, I never hook boat to shore hose, for any reason, at any time. Water we use comes from tanks aboard and onboard water pump pressure. Fill tanks as needed. Seen one during my years of boating sunk from malfunction of shore water pressure; have read about others. Not that shore pressure water isn't fun to use... just not applicable for me. Paranoia strikes deep! :popcorn: :rofl:

I totally agree. On my previous boat, I installed a shore F/W reducer. Used for a few month and then, went back to filling the tanks via hose.
 
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